Best automotive lighting parts & accessories according to redditors
We found 1,625 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive lighting parts & accessories. We ranked the 800 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone / Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Red Protective Grill, 2 Horns (3AG 003 399-801)
These are the famous loud and powerful Dual Supertone Horns which look and sound like nothing else on the road. These horns guarantee the attention needed in every situation.HELLA Supertone horns guarantee best functionality, optimum fit and long lasting customer satisfaction.Original equipment qual...
2. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt
Test range: Voltage: DC 6.5~100V; Current: 0~100A; Power: 0~10kW; Energy: 0~9999kWhStore energy data when power off(can be reset to 0). The blue backlight can be turned on/off manuallyWith overload alarm function(If active power is larger than threshold, backlight and power will flash)4 in 1 meter; ...
3. 10 Pack - EPAuto 12V Car Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapter Mini ATM APM Blade Fuse Holder
Protect original circuitPlug into an existing fuse holderHeavy Duty 16 Gauge Red Color Wire15 AMP Fuse x 10Add-a-circuit Fuse x 10
4. LEDpartsNow Interior LED Lights Replacement for 2013-2019 Mazda CX-5 CX5 Accessories Package Kit (9 Bulbs), WHITE
For 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 Mazda CX 5 (Some newer models may already have built-in LEDs)This replaces all the front map lights, rear dome lights, vanity mirror / sun visor lights, trunk / cargo area lights, and license plate tag lights.Live Tech Support via Phone & E-Mail - Can be installed in as quic...
5. Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay,BLACK
Heavy duty wiring harness and relay with H4 plugConnected plug is hard and insulated plasticDesigned to heat proof temperatures more than 480 degrees Fahrenheit for added protection when used with high wattage bulbsEasy to replace original connected plugsMade with the highest grade material
6. FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster Low Note Horn
FIAMM AM80SX LOW note two terminal Freeway Blaster features aluminum coil motor, corrosion resistant steel housing and an ABS plastic projector.FIAMM horn package Includes: Universal mounting bracket, jumper wire, nut and female connectorsEach FIAMM horn is tested to assure maximum performance and e...
7. Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge
Glow in the Dark FaceAir Pressure Release Button17" Flexible HoseAngled & Ball Chuck Included
8. Roadpro 12V Fused Replacement Cigarette Lighter Plug with Leads (RPPS-225),Black
Manufactured with heavy duty 16- gauge copper wire leadsIncludes built-In fused cigarette lighter plugFeatures green LED indicator and finger gripDual spring contacts for maximum conductivityEasy installation
9. Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface
Allows installation of a new car stereo in select 2006-up Chrysler, Fiat, Ford, GM, Honda, Subaru, Toyota, and VW vehiclesRetains factory convenience features (OnStar, SYNC, Uconnect, and more) with select Kenwood, Alpine, Pioneer, and JVC touchscreen receiversDisplays engine performance data on tou...
10. uxcell Car Charger Power Female Cigarette Lighter Socket Plug Adapter with 26cm Cable
Material(External) : Plastic, Metal;Product Name : Car Cigarette Lighter Socket;Color : Black, Red;Body Dimension : 64 x 29mm/ 2.5" x 1.1"(L*D)Weight : 45g;Cable Length : 26cm / 10.2"Enables you for conversion of car/cigarette lighter power supply to be used with a wall power supply.
11. iJDMTOY (1) 2-Pin Electronic LED Flasher Relay Fix For Motorcycle Bike Scooter LED Turn Signal Bulbs Hyper Flash Issue
Part Number: LF1-S-PIN (Size: 1" x 1" x 1")Completely waterproof design and direct replace most OEM two-wire/pin flasherEliminate the need for tapping wires to install the load resistors and allow LED bulbs to blink at the normal rateCompatible with Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki, Yamaha motorcycles and ma...
12. Nilight GA0004 5Pack 12AWG Inline Wiring Harness 12 Gauge ATC/ATO Automotive Holder with 30A Fuse Blade Standard Plug Socket-5 Pack, 2 Years Warranty
Safety protection: Heavy duty 12 gauge (AWG) Red Color wire, great look and added protection to the circuit. And easy to add additional circuits for all Cars, CD players, fax machines, etcSuitable fuses: fits for 1A, 2A, 3A, 4A, 5A, 7. 5A, 10A, 15A, 20A, 25A, 30A ATC/ATO blade Fuse of 19. 1 x 18. 5 ...
13. Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A（4.2A） for Car Boat Marine RV Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED
10A inline fuses to protect your plugs from being overloaded.Input : 12V, Output : 2 ports 5V - 4.2A ，2.1A each.Drill size : 1.15“（29.2mm）fits most vehicles’ dash panelPackage Included:1 x Dual USB Car Charger Adapter, 1 x 3.3 ft Wire , 2 x Fuse (1 installed ), 2 x Insulated Terminals
14. 6 Way Blade Fuse Box for Automotive [ATC/ATO Blade Fuses] [100 Amp][LED Indicator] [Protection Cover] [10-30V DC; 12V] Auto Marine Fuse Block
LED INDICATOR FOR BLOWN FUSE - Easily identify & replace blown fuses immediately without guessing! The LED indicator lights up when a blown fuse is detected.FUSE PROTECTION COVER - A neat clip-on plastic cover that adds extra protection to your fuse box & fuses.100 AMP RATING - Maximum of 30 Amp per...
15. MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch
MICTUNING MIC-B1002 wiring harness kit with Waterproof Red on/off toggle switch and easy to install.Details Makes Perfect:adopt flexible strand copper wire,up to 180 watt load capacity.It is universal fit for any 7" 10" 12" 20" 30" 40" light bars that is within 180w.Great Construction:40A Power Rela...
16. Wolo (419) Bad Boy Air Horn - 12 Volt
Black finishPatented one-piece design that requires no hosesInstalls easily in minutes by simply transferring the factory horn wires to the compressorMounts with one bolt included in kitProduces a powerful dual tone air horn sound that is two times 2X louder than a factory horn
17. BESTEK 3-Socket 200W 12V/24V DC Cigarette Lighter Power Adapter with 6A 4-Port Car USB Splitter Charger
Safe Quick Charging: 4-Port USB charging ports with 6A total output enables you to rapidly charge 4 devices simultaneously. with built-in Smart IC technology that can intelligently detect your devices to deliver its fastest possible charging speedThree 12V/24V cigarette lighter sockets provide a tot...
18. SMAKN 12V 5A Female Car Cigar Cigarette Lighter Socket Plug Connector Adapter
100% brand new and high quality.It has about 35cm long cable, Red color cable is Positive, Black color cable is Negative.It can be used for 12V 5A power, Never have any overheat problems.
19. BESTEK 12V 24V Extension Cord Plug Socket with Battery Clamp, 3.9ft/1.2m 16AWG Battery Clip-On Car Cigarette Lighter Adapter
Clips directly hook to the car vehicle battery to use high-power appliances, protect the car cigarette lighter. Red to postive and black to negative.Manufactured to power 12V and 24V appliances. 16AWG, clamps made of copper, brand new and high qualityPower LED indicator, can let you know the power i...
20. WILSON 305-38 300-Watt Little Wil Magnet Mount Antenna
300 Watts Power Handling Capability (ICAS)Large 10 oz magnetHeavy-Duty Coil Uses 14-Gauge Copper Wire36" 17-7 PH Stainless Steel Whip Base Load AntennaMade with High Impact Thermoplastic. Low Loss Coil Design
Have you heard of our dear lord and savior Hella?
The 6v golf cart batteries from Costco or Sams Club are what people usually recommend. I have them and they work well.
Also, get one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS Single best upgrade I've done to my trailer.
Joe's Racing tire pressure gauge
I've had crappy ones for many years until I spent a little bit more and got this. Great quality and should last you a long time.
I'm not sure if there is a pressure gauge that's technically "for life" that's consumer grade and relatively cheap since they are considered to be scientific devices that have parts that wear and/or require calibration at some point.
Those are after market horns.
A headlight harness will help a lot. H4 conversion housing like the ones made by Hella (I have the e-code) will be amazing.
I highly recommend against getting cheap flea-bay junk like those Cree lights. Spend the money on quality parts for your own safety and others on the road.
Replace your horn. Its only $30 and pretty easy to do.
I upgraded the Interior LEDs, Floor Mats, and Cargo Mat. Installed a dashcam.
Also, here's a cool little hack where you can disable the headlights on the Daytime Running Lights so that just the LED is on. It looks sweet!
I just upgraded the lights on my kawasaki, so I got all this worked out.
For the fast/4-way flashing issues, I can't say if they will effect your bike. I have a feeling they will, and if they do you know how to address them. All in this upgrade runs about 90 bucks, minus 17 if you decide to stick with halogen rear turn signals.
Good lord that's a long post
When I bought my 2011 Prius the cigarette lighter socket was completely dead. My fuses in the fuse box tested good (continuity test). Turns out there is an inline fuse on the socket itself that was blown. I pulled the socket out and replaced it with this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM works perfectly!
Buy these instead you get ten times the fuseable links and they're high quality, I've used 8 of mine already. [Then wire the positive to this female USB adapter] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00OXZ06I4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_seqXzb06KBW3B1292856) and ground the negative out to the body.
I have two FJs, both with upgraded audio. The Kenwood Excelon DNX695S is my favorite head unit of the two, the other is a Kenwood Excelon DNX892. The DNX659S is quite a bit cheaper, has a great layout, no mechanical door hiding the CD/DVD player, and still has the OBDII connection to monitor engine stuff, which is cool. also two inputs for front and rear cameras.
Keep in mind you will need a few additional components to fully integrate, they aren't 100% needed, but make it better: Maestro ADS-MRR to use your steering wheel controls, SiriusXM SXV300v1 if you want Satellite Radio, and a plastic trim piece to complete the bezel around the new radio.
I have a Wicked CAS Stage 2 speaker and subwoofer system in one, and stock speakers in the other. Both sound great with the new head units, but the Wicked system with the dual subwoofers is really nice. I don't have a sub in the second FJ, and miss it after driving the first.
Hella horns. Really popular among the Subaru community.
I also bought a 12V horn wiring harness relay kit (basically extension cords for the horn) for $12.99 just in case https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XM107FC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Hope that link works...if not, it's the
Wolo (419) Bad Boy Air Horn - 12 Volt
It was pretty easy to install. Had to install the relay as well. I'm no electrician and not much of a mechanic, but the instructions were all there, ezpz
If you want a decent upgrade, start with replacing the stock harness to one with relays. I used this Putco harness (though I'm sure there are better ones). I saw a significant increase in brightness with the stock bulbs. Just something to consider.
OPs link is the dual.
Pro tip. If anyone grabs this, buy 2x fuse taps (your proper sizing) so you don't have to have ugly wiring to your cig light port
those fuckers BARK at you.
you need these. http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-760688000000-003399801-Supertone-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
they work exceptionally well at tell someone to get the fuck out of the way.
I once watched a serious case of road rage happen in front of me on 85S. One guy kept swerving into the lane of the other guy, nearly hitting him multiple times. I got up as close as I was comfortable doing (my car had excellent brakes just in case) and just laid on the horn with the hellas. They got the hint and both chilled out and went about their business.
118 DB. Sounds awesome. People GTFO of your way.
Hella SuperTones in blue
Hella Supertones are pretty popular in the Subaru scene. They’re fairly easy to mount behind the grille in most cars. Personally, I like the sound of the new Sharptones a little bit more. But there’s endless options out there. Just find some tone that you like. Most electronic horns are gonna wire up the same
I use this a Joes racing gauge. Very good reviews in the car racing community, and its has never let me down. Good value, and I cant complain. I use it for my bikes and all the cars we own.
Hey! Okay here is the link, let me know if it doesn't work for you. I haven't received them yet but I found this link from this sub Reddit with others recommending it and commenting on it's easy install. Lots of the reviews echo the same.
CX-5 LED (Amazon)
Only name-brand that makes something like this is iSimple, but it's twice the price of the other options, only has 1 port, only does 1A, and is still made in China.
Point is, they're all cheap crap from China, even if you're buying name brand and paying twice as much.
These devices are extraordinarily simple and cheap to make, there's nothing that's going to explode, and nothing is going to melt and catch fire (especially if you use a fuse).
2.4A isn't a standard amperage, so a real 2.4A USB is pretty uncommon, especially in this form factor (it's usually a 2.1 that they over-rated so you'll pay more).
Here's a decent option
Buy a fuse tap and a cigarette lighter socket. Then check your interior fusebox for an ignition-switched source. Tap into that then use whatever cigarette-to-usb adapter you want.
Horn + Battery + Switch = Horn on Bike
Hell, you could fit all that into cargo pants and be a pedestrian honking at cars.
Or on kickstarter.
You can also look into Hella supertones.
The best bang for the buck is to upgrade your wire harness. The way the factory wiring is routed on your XJ, the power goes into the switch in the cabin of the vehicle only to go out into the engine bay and supply power to your lights. Even a very small drop in voltage at the headlights themselves will make them appear dim. The way to get the lights brighter is to feed them more power. There are kits online you can buy or you can make one yourself using a write up like this: http://go.jeep-xj.info/HowtoHeadlightLoom.htm
If you don't want to make one, you can use the harness that everyone seems to buy on Amazon. A lot of people who have reviewed the product are talking about putting them into XJs. http://www.amazon.com/Putco-230004HW-Premium-Automotive-Lighting/dp/B001P29X4G
The way a headlight harness upgrade works is it uses relays. You don't remove any of your existing wiring, just add the kit to your existing electrical system. Instead of your factory wiring feeding power to the lights, it now activates relays which will draw power right off of your battery. That delivers more power to your lights and makes them brighter without even replacing them.
Many people will recommend upgrading the headlights themselves, but be aware that the vast majority of the kits for sale online aren't DOT approved. That means you will fail a safety inspection if your state requires them and you can get a ticket for having them on your vehicle when driving on the road. The DOT regulations are to keep lights from blinding other drivers by defining cut off points of the beam and specifying focused beam patterns. If a cop pulls you over for suspected non-compliant headlights, all he has to do is look at them. If the glass doesn't say DOT, you're getting a ticket.
An alternative that a lot of people get away with are using E-code headlights. Autopal and Hella make lights that are compliant to European standards, but they're still not DOT approved for use here in the United States. People seem to get away with them though because at a glance they don't look like the cheapie "for offroad use only" H6054 composite housings for sale all over eBay. The Autopal and Hella headlight housings allow the user to pop in H4 headlight bulbs. That opens you up to a whole lot more options in terms of lighting. Fitting HIDs in an XJ can be done, but simply popping a cheap HID kit into a H6054 composite housing isn't going to do the trick because an HID bulb is longer and will project light in a very different pattern which can blind other drivers.
There are also LED H6054 headlights on the market as well as true HIDs for H6054s. They're expensive, but they exist if you want to spend the money. Truck-lite makes LED headlights and they're $215 each. The "boobie light" Real factory-made and DOT approved HIDs (not some enclosures a guy on a forum made in his garage) cost a grand a pair including ballasts. They're the Philips Bi-Xenon XP6054. A guy on jeepforum has/had them, but that's a ton of money for a pair of headlights. This link shows pictures from that jeepforum user. http://www.headlightrevolution.com/Starr_HID_5x7_Headlights_Black_p/starr-xp6054b.htm
I would suggest following the linked guide with a few changes / notes below : https://www.fiat500owners.com/threads/how-to-2012-fiat-500-double-din-radio-install.7412/
You will make an account and flash the firmware to the appropriate car make/year and head unit model.
I've only installed a basic 1 DIN stereo on my old 2013 500. I suggested the above head unit and wiring harness because I've installed that on my 2017 500 and had great results. Best of luck.
And then obviously pick a head unit. We've had good luck with the Kenwood DNX695S, which has navigation, wired android auto, apple car play, and plays DVDs. It looks like a lot of parts but the only wire connecting you'll need to do is with the various harnesses listed above, and there's good documentation on what goes where. Once you get your harness all connected up, everything just plugs right into your existing Toyota harnesses.
using something like this:
Allows you to tap into an existing fuse slot fairly easily, its pretty much unplug a fuse, plug it and two fuses in.. then you can wire to the existing wire and a metal to the frame point under the dash.
I have done this with my car since my cigarette lighters are always on.
I used it to wire one of these in: http://www.amazon.com/uxcell%C2%AE-Charger-Cigarette-Lighter-Female/dp/B00EZJBELQ
And I just plugged my cam into that.
Well, I have a splitter on that now and my cam and gps are on it.. but same thing..
Dangerous as is, the battery needs a large main fuse and a manual disconnect switch
Your inverter and fridge aren't fused.
10 gauge wire is not enough to run a fridge and an inverter I would suspect. Also, you might want to run the fridge and inverter on its own, proportionally sized fuse; that way the fuses don't have to be so massive, requiring less potential sparks and fire to blow the fuses. As it is, there's no fuse, and the inverter and fridge share the same cable; the most load hungry devices. That means the cable needs to be double thick from the battery to a bus bar, to the fridge and inverter. Otherwise you will have considerable voltage drop or possibly even melt your wires and cause a fire.
Same thing for the solar charge controller. According to this chart: http://www.affordable-solar.com/solar-tools/wire-sizing-charts/ you can only go 3.5 feet before you get more than 2% voltage drop with 10awg and 30amps - and it says that no more than 2% is acceptable. This might help: https://www.scribd.com/document/334383567/Solar-Setup-by-sprinterpirate
Also I see no battery/amp meter. This is limited to 100a but you get the idea: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495073407&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=battery+meter
And brokedown is correct, you can't just leave different types of batteries always connected whenever the engine is on. You need to disconnect it either with a programmed ACR or manually.
Just make sure that's crimped/spliced somewhere between the positive lead of the battery and your fishfinder. Very Bad Things can happen should your fishfinder get dunked without it in place.
Also i dont know how i forgot hella supertones. they look good, and make you safer because they are loud
for your headlights make sure to find a guide specifically for the hawkeye (60-07 models)
Similar thing happened to me today, but going from right to left approaching a stoplight. I think they were trying to make their way to the open "first vehicle" spot at the light in my lane that i was coming up to. Thank god i had these horns
I would assume that you could get a set of Hella Supertones in Europe. They are loud and dissonant.
I highly recommend the Hella Super Tones
Just gonna leave this here for OP
The Scion FR-S has the same issue, sounds like a clown car. It's like, "I'M SO MAD," meep. So I bought some Hella Supertones and everything was right with the world again, I could be angry and actually HONK at people.
I had the front bumper off to install an oil cooler anyway so install was relatively simple and I believe you can do it by just removing the undertray and not the whole bumper, I have no idea what you would have to do for your Matrix though. The horns came with a relay but the FR-S already has one so I didn't use it, not sure about the Matrix, you'll have to Google that. For the low tone I just spliced in to the 2 cables going to the stock horn and the high tone had a single cable which I spliced in to for a live source and ran a cable from the mounting bolt for ground.
Google's your friend, you might even be able to buy a wiring harness to ease things along. I'm a dumbass and managed this pretty easily, good luck :).
Replace that horn. Easy, cheap. So many options.
For example, https://www.amazon.com/Fiamm-72112-Freeway-Blaster-Note/dp/B000DINKPQ?keywords=car+horn+loud&amp;qid=1535858148&amp;sr=8-2&amp;ref=mp_s_a_1_2
If you're depending on that worthless beep-beep, good luck. One of the first mods I make on a new motorcycle is horn upgrade (there's a box of old stock horns in the garage).
Get a stebel air horn or a set of Fiamm Freeway Blasters (standard on an F-150), or any other decent horn.
And be careful out there, you're invisible!
Thinking about upgrading my car, and I'm the type of person who likes to have everything planned out in advance. Car is an '04, already has a double diagonal rollbar, harness bar, muffler, aluminum radiator, and intake. I'll be doing timing/accessory belts, water pump, and valve cover gasket/paint shortly.
Critique my build plans please. What here is unnecessary, what am I missing, what should I change, anywhere I can save money without losing quality, or anywhere I need to gain quality, even if for a higher cost?
Any advice is appreciated.
No, they won't be able to help you. Unlock procedure on a mk4 is pump wedge and long reach to hit the door lock button. I'd pondered using the long reach to grab the hood release, but those are pretty stiff and require a lot of torque to pull so I doubt it would work.
You may get lucky with the following, though. Since you can access the trunk you can access the 12v power socket in the trunk, get something with a cigarette lighter adapter and hack the plug end off, connect the positive and negative leads to a low amperage battery charger (the wiring for that socket isn't very robust, no more than say 10A output on the charger) and plug the charger in, then connect the cigarette plug into the 12v socket in the trunk.
If you don't have anything with a cigarette plug end, use this.
Give it an hour or so and you should have enough juice to articulate the locks using either the fob, or holding the key in the door all the way to the left or right for a couple seconds. That should get you in. Of course, I -know- this socket is live even with key off on my 2002, it's likely the same on your 2001, but they are also VW's so... there's that. Make sure you have the correct polarity as well on your plug end, center post is always positive, if unsure test with a multi meter or you're gonna have a bigger problem to contend with. Just be mindful, and it should work ok.
Edit: I've since looked in an older unlock book once I arrived to work, it IS possible to pop the rear doors using a rod linkage tool, but I'd still wager a cheap cord and a cheap charger would do the job just as fast as a roadside club, and for much less in cost.
$83.94 IPF housings
$20.98 Hella H4 55/100W
$27.34 Putco harness
$14.56 Backup relays
$146.82 for a sharp cutoff and much more light on the road, and an incredible high beam, delivered in two days if you have an Amazon Prime membership. I bet you use high beams a lot now, but you'll probably rarely feel the need to use them on the road with this setup.
$147.99 for a 50 inch light bar. Even though the headlights offer a lot of light, having extra flood would be great when off road. I don't actually have this yet, but I plan on buying it as a reward for getting some work done on my XJ. Mine is still new to me, and I haven't yet had the time to earn it yet.
Less than $300 and two days for an incredible amount of light output.
If I don't buy that light bar, it's because I'm getting a Cree light bar with XP/XT or XM emitters that I'll be upgrading...I'm on the hunt for a light bar that uses XTE emitters like this light because output can greatly be increased by swapping in XP-L's, and more than doubled if power can be increased. That mod is more of a hobbyist thing than an attempt to save money, and not all of them would be done anyway since it'd sacrifice some throw for flood.
It's hard to beat the Chinese at this one... I've seen a guy on Facebook reselling prebuilt harnesses as his own creation, but I'm more interested in making a quality product that's going to outlast the rig it's installed on. I want my reputation to be built on quality and value for the dollar.
And at the premium/benchmark end:
If I could make and sell a harness that people would be interested in, I'd be game. We'd be talking OEM quality TXL wire, ceramic plugs, HELLA style relays... but it's not going to be $20. That's the hard part, being competitive in price and quality in relation to other offerings.
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
My .02 worth for ya..... Go in this order instead of jumping right into a set of LED headlamps.
1 - Upgrade the wiring harness.
I installed a Putco harness in 2013 when I first got the XJ and it was a definitely improvement.
Putco 230004HW Premium Automotive Lighting H4 100W Heavy Duty Wiring Harness and Relay
Other folks have gone the eBay route, and I bought one of these on a whim (because it was stupid cheap) just to see if the quality was worth it.
CERAMIC H4 HEADLIGHT RELAY WIRING HARNESS 2 HEADLAMP LIGHT BULB SOCKET PLUGS 7
Ended up not installing it because I had other things to work on instead of replacing the Putco harness that was working fine. Overall though, the quality was surprisingly good and I would have used it if I didn't already have the Putco harness.
For all the negative comments people have about the Putco upgrade harness, it's still working fine a little over 3yrs later. Knock on wood, of course.
2 - Get a set of H4 housings. I bought these off Amazon, but there are other reputable brands out there which work just fine.
GENSSI DOT H6054 7x6 Inch 200mm Headlights Pair with Bulbs Non-Sealed H6014/H6052/H6054
These came with some crappy OCONUS-made no-name bulbs that sucked balls and were immediately thrown in the garbage.
I went to my local PepBoys and grabbed a set of Sylvania SilverStar "Ultra Halogen" H4 bulbs and threw those in the housings.
Holy shit, #1 & #2 were an incredible upgrade to the shit stock XJ headlights.
If you're looking to stay right at or a hair under $100 that's the way to go.
Last year, I came into some $$$ and got it into my head that I wanted LED headlights. Went this route: Truck-Lite (27450C) Headlamp
Significant difference from the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade but I'm honestly glad I did the H4 bulbs + wiring harness upgrade first.
Now that said... In hindsight, the LEDs weren't absolutely necessary and I could have put the $$$ into a SYE or something else.
But hey, ya learn as ya go. Right?
I use Torque Pro on my android with a bluetooth ODBII scanner. It has helped me to diagnose some issues on a friend’s car. As well as see some benefits from some small fix-ups that I was not sure would be noticeable (eg. cleaning my MAF)
For tire pressure I use Joes racing gauge
Big fan of Joe's Racing. http://www.amazon.com/Joes-Racing-32307-Pressure-Gauge/dp/B00404WDUC/
I’m looking at adding a Kenwood radio to my Tundra and I found this.
Maestro ADS-MRR Universal Radio Replacement and Steering Wheel Interface https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NeB9BbZG14HP6
This will allow the radio to show TPMS data and reset CEL codes and a whole lot more. Aftermarket is always ahead of OEM.
I second this set, OP. I really love it. It's much brighter, and the color is very similar to the headlights.
It's subtle LED blue, which is far different than the candle yellow color with the regular bulbs (and virtually every other vehicle). In my opinion it really makes the interior shine.
It's potato quality, but last year I took a short video of my LEDs to show a buddy.
It's not a huge thing, but I've enjoyed this upgrade.
The cargo privacy cover is definitely worth the bucks.
When camping, be careful of draining your battery. I camped last week, charged 3 cell phones and played the radio for about 45 minutes at low volume, then didn't have enough juice to start the car in the morning. After a jump I had an error regarding the electronic parking brake (don't engage the brake if you're at risk of killing the battery while parked) - it went away after a couple of drives, but it had me a little worried.
Hey y'all! Some of you asked about mods so here is a full list of what I have done so far with links.
Radiator guard - Has a nice little FZ-07 etched at the bottom.
Shorty levers - Mine are gray but they come in lots of colors.
Bar end mirrors - You can find these for less but I chose these because the reviews indicated that they might be better quality than others.
Yoshimura fender eliminator - Kinda pricey for what it is but it looks really nice.
Motodynamic integrated tail light - I also looked at the TST but after looking at some videos decided on this one.
Proton 500 flush mount LED - These things are brighter than the sun. You can also change the signal pattern which I thought was cool.
Flasher relay - Prevents hyper flash and let me get rid of resistors.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Stompgrip volcano black - I really like these and they have great grip. You can also get them in clear from their website if that's your thing.
Akrapovic TI - This exhaust sounds sweet, I also purchased the CAT for it through cyclegear.
Other mods that i'm considering in the future
Stainless Steel braided brake lines, FTECU on the bike flash kit, T-Rex Racing no cut combo.
Bonus - https://i.redd.it/en8vfnpv46u01.jpg
Solar panels put out around 12v-18v of power depending on sun intensity. You would need a PWM or MPPT solar controller and you could use something like a 12V cigarrette car charger like this:
And then use a standard car charger USB out and plug your RPi into that. The car charger USB will have a Switching Mode Power Supply (SMPS) inside of it that will take your 12v+ coming from the solar controller and bring it down to 5v to be used with whatever USB devices you have plugged in.
Nice work, this is like a bigger, better version of my light with 1' Q strips and a mix of spectrum. I also oversized mine some, 150 watts total in a 2'x2', and have it so I can turn on and off each group. I'm using just regular switches for the groups and I have to adjust the pot manually to keep the power where I wanted it using one of these to measure. Did you go a more advanced route? I'm working on upgrading and controlling everything via an arduino and using relays to turn the light groups on/off and for autowatering and a digital potentiometer for the % power.
I finished one grow with my light at full power in flower, but ~40 watts are side lighting, 10 watts per corner. My light is only around 10"-12" from the tops, and the side lights are only a few inches away. I didn't see any big advantage to the side light, I'm not sure if I'm going to keep them, but I'm using them again this grow. Maybe I'll move 2 up top and keep 2 low and see what the different sides look like.
I'm curious to try to learn more about if this is wasted energy and if so, how to tell
You're most welcome! I bought the following:
Solar Panel Connectors
200ah AMG Battery
300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter
Dometic 35 Fridge
I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.
I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \
EDIT: Adding info.
Ran an electrical system in my Subaru with an auxiliary battery charged off the alternator.
80 Amp isolator relay (switches charging on while car is running):
100AH 12V AGM battery: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-UB121000-45978-100AH-Cycle-Battery/dp/B00S1RT58C
2Ga Wire running the length from the Relay in the engine bay to the battery.
Kinda Extra things:
Kill Switch: https://www.amazon.com/Ampper-Battery-Switch-12-Disconnect/dp/B07413JWLD
100A inline Fuse
Multimeter (read current voltage, Amperage, etc): www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/
I did that in my work truck.
USB is 5 volts, not 12. You will need a step down transformer. I used an 'add a circuit' to get switched power from my fuse panel. Ran the wire to a 12v plug behind my glove box. Then shoved a USB car charger into the plug. I ran a USB extension cable from the plug up beside my instrument panel and plugged in a 3 port USB bank. Now I can have three things plugged in at a time. The USB charger lasts about a year and a half to two years before it dies, but I use it heavily for work.
Add a circuit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
12v plug: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074CT5CSN?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Model of? Dash Cam? I have this one (https://www.amazon.com/Rexing-Dashboard-Recorder-G-Sensor-Recording/dp/B00X528FNE), there's different versions/models from them. But I just wanted something basic and didn't want to spend a lot in case it turned out to be crap. Then you can get these https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO and tap into a fuse if you don't have a free/open one.
Along with the converter you linked, use an Add-a-circuit to tap into your fusebox (make sure you buy the ones with the right size for your truck). Use a multimeter to find which fuses are activated when your key is in the ignition.
Personally, I'm using a cigarette lighter socket and usb adapter (like this) instead to wire in my dashcam, but they both do the same thing as the converter you linked.
The last piece of the puzzle is having your Pi shutdown gracefully (via a switch), or even some sort of battery backup. This will prevent corruption of your microSD filesystem, which might occur when simply cutting power to the Pi. There are a bunch of different implementations online on how you can do this.
get a low profile fuse splitter.
I've used these with good success. You'll need to fabricate a cowl or something to have it plugged in all the time and keep water off it. Though it really shouldn't matter all that much if it gets a little wet.
If that blade fuse is blown, I'd suggest replacing it with a newer fuse holder with some ring connectors crimped on. Way easier and cheaper than finding a new blade fuse.
Regular car batteries are made to have a lot of cranking power, and then stay on a trickle charge once the alternator gets going. Running the battery voltage down each night and charging it daily will kill the life of your battery (if it's not deep cycle).
Honestly, charging a phone (5w), running some small LED lighting (8w), and a couple 12VDC fans (6w) can all be done through your cigarette lighter port and won't be drawing more than 20watts. If you ran that all night, you would only be using 15amp/hrs or so of your battery; and if you get 8 hours of sunlight, you only need a 30watt solar panel to charge it back up. Whenever you are talking about solar though, you should plan on doubling your capacity to account for non-optimal performance, cloudy days, long winter nights, etc.
kieranmullen gives a pretty good rundown of what you would need to setup a separate 12v system but seems like overkill for what you are asking (and would run you about $300-400).
Personally, I would get a 100 watt panel, 7 amp charge controller, the cheapest 12v deep cycle marine battery from walmart, and maybe a 3-400w inverter (for a laptop charger or any other AC devices). Also, I'd put an inline fuse between my charge controller and load, and maybe another between the battery and charge controller.
I have the same complaint. Might get these. Hella Supertone
Hella SuperTones. German made. 118dB. You WILL be heard with these.
Bought the horns off of Amazon then I used some extra wire and fixtures that were laying around the garage! I'll put a link to the horn set I bought.
But this is my 2016 crosstrek that's I've owned for about two months and I love it!
HELLA (3AG 003 399-801) Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Hp6WAbFFJ7W96
I've got a set of Hella super tones. Please do this the right way and use the included relay instead of just using the old stock horn wire and "splitting it."
I didn't like the air horn option because of tight mounting space in my NA. My supers are pretty loud, it'll make you jump if you're standing in front of them when I hit it. Super tone kit is also louder than air horn kit from Hella.
Hella Horns my guy, way better.
Those are "Hella Supertones." A horn upgrade. They're really loud!
Has anyone used this:
Hella SuperTone Horn Kit, 118 db
you didn't specify you wanted OP ones, you should be more specific... here is an amazon link for Hella Supertones.
Unless I’ve been duped. When I was looking at them for my Subaru they were more expensive.
HELLA (3AG 003 399-801) Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket
Thats why you use open face horns.
Freeway blasters solve the quite horn issue!
When I see these people, I make sure to never let them in.
Inevitably, they'll try to push their way in with their blinker on. That is when I press my horn to which I've installed 2 Freeway Blasters (high and low tone) and I stay on them until they stop and continue to wait.
If that fails to stop them, I follow them very closely and stay on my horn until they eventually move aside and let me pass. I then give them a nasty look. Sometimes I flip them off as well.
I've found this to be effective and educational. It was even more effective when I had air horns, but those compressors don't last me long, probably because I use them liberally and judiciously.
I was disappointed with my horn (I can barely hear it) so I upgraded.
A touring windshield for when it's cold out, frame sliders, tank grips for your knees, removable hard cases for storage. This awesome horn https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000DINKPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_MiS.Ab6X7RFY3
I installed this horn recently. It's much louder than the OEM horn. I don't think revving would be loud enough with my bike's exhaust.
I have a 2009 ninja 250. I installed the Freeway Blaster (low tone). It's on amazon and most local stores. I got it at my local Canadian Tire.
Here it is: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000DINKPQ
I ripped out the rubber washer and just installed the metal nuts on metal. For some reason the threaded rod built into the freeway blaster is slightly shorter than the stock horn. But it installed just fine and is really loud. Just make sure you mount it with the open end facing down to prevent rain from getting in.
Here's a Stebel Nautilus knock off that will be just as good...
I bought the Bad Boy horn from Wolo, it mounts in the same place as the stock horn and is only slightly larger. It's pretty freaking loud. Just make sure you use a relay otherwise you will blow a fuse if you use the horn and brakes at the same time
Crimp the fan wires onto this (or similar) https://www.amazon.com/Roadpro-Fused-Replacement-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B0016LG0CY
If you need to extend the fan wires, you can use butt splice connectors to add an extension. You can pick up the connectors and some 16awg thhn wire at home depot or lowes.
If you are mostly listening, you should be fine. Most cigarette outlets are rated for 8 amps at 13.8v. My Cobra 19 DX III only uses 1.2 amp on transmit so it is safe for me do what you are suggesting. Some vans and trucks have "power outlets" that are rated for 18-20 amps that would be perfect even for a long talker.
The power post you are suggesting scares me since leaves things so exposed. I ended up using the following that you can buy in almost any store with basic automotive electrical parts.
Terminals and Spades and a Replacement Cigarette Adapter. The Cigarette adapter in stores is usually rated for 3 amps. For CB's that should be plenty, but if the fuse pops after some long TX you may need to figure out running a Positive wire to the battery and the black to bolt to the car frame.
They are being helpful. The thing is, cars are loud. USB ports provide very small amounts of power. You can get something working, but you're likely to find that you can't hear the music over the road noise.
The trouble with USB is it can supply only a tiny amount of power. It runs at 5V and can supply up to 0.9 amps (unless you violate the standard). That works out to 4.5 watts of available power. Meanwhile, a car cigarette lighter is 12V and usually at least 10 amps. That gives you 120 watts of available power.
Unless you already have the USB speakers, why would you want to give up 96% of the power available to you in an application where you need a lot of power? Even if you do already have USB speakers, why would you want to spend time building something that really isn't going to work?
Especially when there is a whole industry out there devoted to producing amplifiers for your exact situation, some as cheap as $10. And speakers for $19. And for $4 more, you can add a connector to plug it into the cigarette lighter.
Alternatively, shop around for computer speakers that are sold with a 12V DC power adapter. You should be able to power those directly off the cigarette lighter power, and they will probably be louder than USB speakers.
You could buy one of (THESE) and splice it in, using electrician's "wire nuts" (image) to complete the connections.
Before cutting off the old BigFatPlug, use your multimeter to learn which terminal of BigFatPlug goes the the central Tip of the telescope connector, and which terminal of BigFatPlug goes to the outer Sleeve of the telescope connector. Write these two facts on a piece of paper.
That inreach explorer you have should pretty well cover you on the emergency comms side of things. In that case I'd get a simple CB setup like this Uniden and a mag mount like a K30 or a little wil. That will cover vehicle to vehicle comms out to several miles and help keep you informed on road conditions.
I'd honestly recommend a magnetic LilWil wilson, and one of the smaller cb radios you could plug into the cigg adapter. Handhelds are crap unless the antenna is extended completely.
$76.88 and you can take it from truck to truck. It'd kick the crap out of a handheld any day.
For a non shit handheld yer gonna be paying 50-70 anyways.
As for mounting it I'll leave that up to you. The speaker is on the bottom of it so theres that.
That's the exact harness I bought.
Tires are the most important feature on the car for it's performance and safety. You should educate her on how to monitor, and set her tire pressure at regular intervals for her own safety and the safety of those around her. Get a nice tire pressure gauge with a large glow in the dark analog gauge to make reading simple and clear.
As promised, here are the links I have bookmarked:
Stock USB Adapter: https://www.carid.com/axxess/retains-oe-usb-adaptor-mpn-ax-mazusb.html?singleid=185736977&amp;url=78716414
Backup Camera Adapter: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120MAZCM6V/Axxess-AX-MAZCAM-6V-Backup-Camera-Harness.html?tp=3486
Backup Camera Adapter Instructions: https://pdf.crutchfieldonline.com/ImageBank/v20170911125100/Manuals/120/120MAZCM6V.PDF
Antenna Adapter: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_12040HD10/Metra-40-HD10-Antenna-Adapter.html?tp=2569
Trim Kit: https://www.crutchfield.com/p_120957522B/Metra-95-7522B-Dash-Kit.html?tp=3121
Dash disassembly (CX-5 is identical to 6): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aoncFAELsDQ
Wire Harness: https://www.carid.com/metra/aftermarket-radio-wiring-harness-mpn-70-7903.html?singleid=4732120&amp;url=78716414
Maestro RR (Steering wheel control adapter): https://www.amazon.com/ADS-MRR-Maestro-RR-Universal-Replacement/dp/B00E4W1644
Guide by someone who has done this before: https://www.mazda6club.com/threads/2014-m6gt-pioneer-mvh-2300nex-install-w-bose.434058/
Reverse wire location: https://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?123840216-2014-mazda-6-reverse-sensor-wire-found-looking-for-VSS-wire-anyone
My Headunit: https://www.kenwood.com/usa/car/navigation_multimedia/ddx9703s/
In my Mk6, I tapped into the cigarette lighter line and added another cigarette outlet inside of my center console. Then ran the provided cigarette lighter power supply line down the A pillar, through the fuse box, in the trim behind the wheel, into the console. That meant I didn't have to butcher the included power supply to wire it in, and I didn't have to find a fuse position that would work.
I stole the idea from the DoubleApex USB Charger install - I basically just did it a second time, but instead of tapping in their lighter/USB power supply, tappen in an outlet I bought. Here's their instructions(PDF) if you want to get an idea. May not be best for your situation, but it's an option.
You need either a in line wired USB or wire a cigarette lighter receptacle in and use your existing adapter. You can't just wire the USB cable in directly. USB is 5v.
I have a cig lighter wired in under the dash and one of those 3 output USB adapters for dashcam and some other stuff.
Cigartte lighter socket + quality car phone charger + Add-a-circuit kit (check your fuse type) + some quality tape + Right-angle USB charging cable
You wire the red wire on the cigarette adapter to an add-a-ciruit (i.e. with a crimp tool). The black wire goes to ground (i.e. tucked under some bolt someplace, or a ring terminal ). You put the charger in the now-attached cigarette adapter in the fuse area under your driver's side dash. Then you need to route an appropriate USB cable (i.e. with one with a right-angle head or right-angle adapter on the dash cam side) to the under dash area (usually by tucking it under the headliner over the windshield, and then by popping the A-pillar cover off and the side panel of the dashboard, and feeding the cable through). Once you have all the wires under the dash, you just need to hook them up, test them, and then tape them together so they can't come loose.
The advantage of going this route is that you 'own' all the pieces. If any part of the formula isn't working out, you can change just that part. You also get a spare USB-C charging port for free since that adapter has both A and C.
Yeah super easy I think it took 30 minutes total to replace all the lights. The only one I had issues with the lift gate light, I had a hard time figuring out how to get to it. I used this kit it came with a little prying tool to get the lights out. I like them because they give off a much cooler light, which I feel makes the interior feel more modern/luxurious look.
I purchased from here. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRMSX6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_y7LFAbXEAVPRF The vanity lights don't always seem to come with, though...
I bought this for my cx-5. I love them.
LEDpartsNow 2013-2018 Mazda CX-5 CX5 LED Interior Lights Accessories Package Replacement Kit (9 Bulbs), WHITE https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HRMSX6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_D4PG7jevKQdvr
These are the ones I got. They did fine and the color temperature matches the LED headlights pretty well. Includes all interior lighting and license plate lights.
LEDpartsNow Mazda CX-5 CX5 LED Interior kit 2013-2017 Xenon White Premium LED (9 Pieces) + Pry Tool
i think its either this set of form http://ledpartsnow.com
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 $17.99 + FS
http://www.ledpartsnow.com/1315cx5/ its 15.99 + FS
The first thing I upgraded was my lights. Makes my car automatically look a lot more luxurious.
Installations video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T5iKBsisfBs
Amazon Product - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
BEFORE YOU BUY!
You'll also need something like this:
Make absolutely sure you don't clip it to the battery backwards. I'd put a big red + on the positive side of the battery.
Go to your local auto part store and purchase a used car battery for like 50$. Then buy a battery clip on cigarette lighter socket extension cord for 10$ and a Dual 110V AC outlets and Dual USB 3.1A 300w power inverter for 27$. Now you wont have to drain your car battery charging your phones and it can power other stuff like lights or a pump for your air mattress.
also you can get Portable Solar Car Battery Charger encase you need to charge the battery or use jumper cables.
I have this one. My 12V in the car cant run it, but I bought one of these and it works great to hook up to the battery.
Maybe not the best idea to use all the time if you off road, cause you'll probably melt the wires at some point, but I've never had an issue.
I would buy this,
In the plug kit your really buying those T handles, there nice and wont try to fold into your hand or away from it while you plug the tire. You can buy I think it's 40 plugs stand alone at walmart for around 5 bucks if you find yourself plugging tires that much.
Then buy a metal jar of rubber cement because that little tube is going to work once and get rock hard.
Any will do that's just what I found on amazon.
That's the same air pump I own except I dont think mine says 300 PSI on the side, I would be extremely surprised if it could actually reach 300 psi but I can tell you for a fact it'll air a tire up in a less than 10 minutes.
This may be worth while as well incase your cigarette lighter doesnt work or blows a fuse you could just clip directly to your car battery.
As far as a phone charger I just mean use a phone charger that plugs in your cigarette lighter, I dont trust those little power bricks. Even if your car battery is "Dead" as in it wont turn your engine over and clicks, it's probably still got more than enough juice to charge your phone and make a call for help.
I would splurge for these nice jumper cables
That comes up to 132 dollars in my amazon cart, I think that puts you much better off than the alternative you were looking at at a reasonable price.
I lived on a dirt road for years, Holes in my tires were Common and I don't think I ever broke out my spare.
MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
I hope this works
I used this harness. Worked out perfect and drilled a 3/4" hole in one of the blank knock outs in the dash near the light dimmer dial. Has an illuminated switch when on and has spade connectors for two front lights. I just used one since I have a 20" led bar behind the lower grille.
MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness, Fuse 40A Relay On-off Waterproof Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_ZYjgQJvFDJ4ET
The vehicle has a wire from the alternator to the battery. It is usually too small. If you connect your house battery charging wire at the alternator rather than at the vehicle battery you will improve the charging of the house battery without adding additional current and voltage drop to the charging path for the vehicle battery.
The wire from the vehicle alternator to the house battery gets the switch somewhere between the two. It doesn't matter where. If it is near either end or in the middle it doesn't matter. The switch instructions say to put it near the vehicle battery. It doesn't matter. The ohms are the same no matter where you put it. Make the wire as short as possible. Locate the switch out of the weather and wherever it is best to have a short total wire length.
Fuses protect wires to avoid fires. The size of the wire sets the upper limit of fuse size. The wire needs to be protected at every source of power. Your house battery charging wire has a connection to two sources of power. The house battery and the vehicle battery / alternator both feed the wire and both need a fuse. Mount the fuses as close as possible to their power sources.
The inverter takes a large DC current. A 440 watt blender using a 90% efficient inverter will need 40 Amps running, maybe twice that starting. Mount the inverter as close as possible to the house battery. If the inverter has its own fuse and the cable from the battery to the inverter is so short that it can't touch any ground even if cut or disconnected then maybe you don't need a fuse between the battery and the inverter.
The fuse box I used is:
You connect a wire from the house battery to it, put in the fuses then connect the fuse box outlet connectors to your loads. Again, put a fuse at the battery to protect the fat wire to your fuse box. If the wire to the fuse box is short enough so that even if the nut holding the wire on the fuse box falls off the wire can't reach anything grounded then maybe skip the fuse.
1 and 2) Wire from alternator - fuse - fat wire - separator - fat wire - fuse - house battery. Then from house battery to inverter, house battery to fuse box, both with fuses if necessary.
3) fuse size depends on wire. For small loads just use #12 wire and a 20 amp fuse. For your fat wire for charging the wire size depends on the length. If you mount the house batteries behind the driver's seat and the alternator is on that side of the engine you can probably get by with 10 to 15 feet. At that length #6 would be the smallest I would recommend. For #6 I would suggest 80 amp fuses.
4) Standard blade fuses fit in the fuse box linked above, not mini.
5) Grounds are equal in importance to the +12 wiring. Any resistance will drop voltage and cause problems. When 2 items share a ground connection and that connection gets high resistance the symptoms get strange and diagnosis gets difficult. For a battery ground you need a hole drilled and a bolt run through. Star washers on both sides of the steel are helpful. You must grind away any paint. Find some ground connections that already exist to see how Sprinter did it. The battery black wire is like what you need for your house battery. Small wires around tail lights are like what you need for your small loads. The inverter should be connected with a short fat wire directly to the battery. The separator switch needs a small ground like other loads. There may be small grounds around the van that you can add to.
6) The fuse box doesn't get a ground connection.
7) The biggest risk (but least likely) is burning down the van with an electrical fire. The most likely risk is making some small arcs and blowing some fuses. A likely risk is connecting something backwards. LEDS just don't work backwards. If you connect your inverter backwards it will likely blow internal fuses, maybe fry the thing. The fan may go backwards, maybe fry. If there is arcing that involves alternator current it could kill the alternator.
Now the fierce criticism. Those coolers will kill batteries and not keep your food cold. If your van is 90F inside and the cooler drops it 30 then inside the cooler it is 60F. Not cold enough. 55 Watts is 110 Amp hours per day. You need to have a volt meter to keep from killing your battery. Do not wire an inverter like you wire a phone charger. The inverter needs short fat wiring. Search the internet and you tube about crimp connectors for fat wire and for #12. Don't strip a wire and twist it around a bolt and then tighten a nut. Look at the way wires are done from the factory in your van. No sharp edges, no loose unsupported wires. Before working on vehicle wiring disconnect the battery minus wire.
For the sake of argument, I actually have the products I have linked. I have only one battery and no disconnect switch. I upgraded the vehicle battery size. I have a vent fan, LED lights, chargers, no blender, 100 Watt solar. That makes me informed and experienced, not expert.
Here's a solid one.
Removed the radio and capped it with abs plastic, fit it with a usb charger and [four of these switches in different colors] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001GH1PU0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) using these housings
the switches got to [relays] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017VDI0GY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) that are powered [by this fuse box] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QMTAZ1W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) that is mounted to the top of the OEM fuse box under the hood.
Those power my OBHS and OBA. Other two switches not in use yet, hoping for rock lights/light bar some day maybe?
Removed the old fog light switch panel, replaced with abs plastic and volume control that goes to an amp that goes to a stereo jack that i just plug into my phone for music.
I put LED turn signals on my bike and I used an electronic turn signal flasher instead of the stock one. You just unplug your old flasher and plug this one in, this way is a lot easier than resistors. You'll have to use an electronic flasher or resistors if you change to LEDs otherwise you'll get hyperflashing.
You can use something like this, this one might even work for your bike.
God I hope this formats correctly - I am a neophyte.
Exhaust - http://www.ixilusa.com/ixil-l3xb-black-hyperlow-xl-full-exhaust-yamaha-mt-07-2014-2015/
Super deep and loud sound - videos online don't do it justice, its unbelievably loud when the baffles are out. Had to have the cat cut out of it. Be aware they have a cat in the V section before the end of the pipe.
Removed the snorkel covering the airbox - I was told its basically blocks airflow.
ECU Flash / Dyno by 2wheelDynoWorks - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/15-17-yamaha-fz07-mail-in-ecu-flashing-service/
Nels himself worked on my bike - super stoked (shout out to Nate too) They have the best customer service.
Active Tune - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/yamaha-activetune-afr-closed-loop-self-tuning-ecu-kit-2/
Tune as you go
Bike side harness - https://2wheeldynoworks.com/shop/ecu-flashing-service/ftlink-v1-1-6-pin-bike-side-harnesses/
For tuning later
Windscreen - https://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/puig-touring-naked-new-generation-windscreen-yamaha-mt-07-2018
I got light smoke, I think it goes better with the bike and pushes wind over my shoulders even at 80+ mph
Protection - https://tstindustries.com/Womet-Tech-Total-Crash-Protection-Pack-for-Yamaha-FZ-07-MT-07-2015.html
Basically got everything from this except the bar ends
Bar Ends - https://motostarz.com/collections/mt-07-2018/products/rhinomoto-barends-mirror-mounts-for-yamaha-fz-mt-models
Super easy to replace mirrors etc with these - and they add protection
Throttle tube - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C59NO2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
90 to 60 degree conversion - its amazing for the price
Dash Screen Protector - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078SMP4ND/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Mirror stem deletes - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN8QGPV/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Current Mirrors - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6GB7DZ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Mirrors in photo - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003RESHVU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I like the CRG Mirrors but they get bumped and are hard to readjust - the cheap ebay/amazon mirrors work great
Headlight replacement - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01H6NZ5QW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Signal replacement LED bulbs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XK4PL33/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Super bright replacements for stock bulbs - used the original housings, they plug right in
Running light LED replacements - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JRE38EA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
For inside the headlight housing
Tail Tidy - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BH5YGOM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Flasher Relay for LEDs - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RM26LXO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Levers - https://www.ebay.com/itm/CNC-Brake-Clutch-Yamaha-MT-07-FZ-07-2014-2018-Adjustable-Engrave-Long-Lever/123350737715?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131003132420%26meid%3D17a37c1b2d204ffcba65903d19a97b4a%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D4%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D122997203335%26itm%3D123350737715&amp;_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851
Passenger peg deletes - https://www.ebay.com/itm/for-YAMAHA-MT07-FZ07-Footrest-Cover-Passenger-Footpeg-Removal-Delete-Kit-2014/253869999740?hash=item3b1bd4c67c:g:3qEAAOSw0JVbm1FQ:rk:1:pf:0
I removed the passenger pegs, needed a bracket to hold the brake fluid reservoir - also cleaned up the pegs
Havent done the brakes yet - going to replace the lines etc with steel braid.
Also want to do a sprocket / chain swap for acceleration
I used a quadlock phone mount for a little bit - but took it off because I was playing with my phone too much.
I think you're looking for something like this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XP5C3XY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You could get a matching female lighter plug, like this https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN%C2%AE-Cigarette-Lighter-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00RT5TE5Q/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520351741&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=cigarette+lighter+socket, and connect that to your battery.
The CVPI battery is pretty heavy duty, it'll survive for a few days. I'd be worried after more than a week though, because car batteries are designed for rushes of current, not slow drains, and they'll become damaged over time if you keep running stuff off of them.
I have a switched 12V splitter that I used to turn off while parked until I got around to wiring everything straight into the switched power point in the passenger footwell (with an inline fuse of course). If OP's really worried, may as well get one.
This is what I used: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00XP5C3XY/
This is the meter, hookup is pretty easy. bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_Ou3gAb7RH4KPW
I made a Boombox out of a pair of coaxials I had laying around
I have a surplus of m12 tool batteries as well as some coaxials laying around I figured I’d make a portable speaker
With solar panels most output well over 18 volts. Which is fine for that amplifier but not for the battery. With a buck converter it takes it down to a more useable voltage for the lithium batteries.
If you wanted to run something like this on grid power you would need something like this I had planned on getting a 12 volt power supply like the one here later for home use but since with one 9AH lithium battery I have well over 12 hours of listening before the battery needs to be recharged/ swapped out.
Edit: also using this to monitor solar output
Ac meter: bayite AC 80-260V 100A BYT-VAEM-034 Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Analyzer Meter Ammeter Voltmeter with Open-close Current Transformer Split Core CT https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01D8G9GPW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_v2hPzb2TNZDNP
Dc meter: bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_g3hPzbSXR3EHB
Usually that's the case. But for this specific amp meter it needs to be on the ground. I tried it the normal way, and it would just give gibberish readings. It's really bizzare.
A bunch of the reviews are complaining about it
I think the ampmeter works by measuring the voltage change over a fixed resistance.
Edit: Just tested. Anything after the shunt isn't measured. There's probably some sort of correcting it does to take into account the load after the shunt. Probably so it doesn't measure itself. I dunno.
Edit 2: it's included wiring diagramhttps://i.imgur.com/uXCRNyY.png
This style of meter is useful.
Just run each component individually to get current draw. Cannot vouch for accuracy but numbers I've measured match product specs, so there's that.
The way I setup my LEDs is I wired the lights directly to the battery with an inline 5A (I believe....might be way too high, could be around 2A, I don't remember, just calculate what your lights will draw) fuse on the ground.
Here is what I used (not the same brand etc etc, I got mine at a PepBoys for double that price because I was impatient), and it worked great!
EDIT: this will provide you with constant power, which is what I wanted because I can switch the lights on without having to turn the key. Great ambient lighting for relaxing in a lot at night.
Pops are caused by slight differences in timing of +/- power supplies reaching their design voltages. Better amplifiers should have muting circuits/output relays to prevent this. The only time that changing input volumes will have an effect is when the pop originates from outside the amp (mixer, xover, EQs, etc.). If your Bryston pops with nothing connected in to it, have it checked out.
Also, make sure to add in-line fuses when testing, if not permanently. NS-10s can be pricey to repair.
I had a studio client replace many NS-10 drivers because some client complained "the fuses corrupt the sound." I added internal fuses and they charge the complainer for a repair every time a speaker stopped working. Funny how complainer never noticed the corrupt sound. I got paid every time I had to open speakers to replace fuses.
Ok, so if I want to switch them all with one switch I should ideally have a switch that can handle 15a+?
So run the 5v and ground cables to all the strips in parallel from the power supply to get even illumination? I'm assuming the reason to do this has to do with voltage drop across 5m of LED's.
So something like this fuse box holder with a 15a fuse on the wires powering the LED would do it?
Friend, "super confused" and a 72W battery stack start to make me nervous about advising you. Here's a pic about how to connect a BMS. https://imgur.com/a/eeh7C4h
Short circuit fault currents can be really high. I highly advise you to fuse your battery as close to the + terminal of your holder as you can. I like this automotive type: https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Harness-Automotive-Standard-Warranty/dp/B0002KR88A
The 7.5A fuse would be a good starting choice.
I'll be using inline fuse holders like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Parts-Express-Water-resistant-Fuse-Holder/dp/B0002KR88A/ref=pd_sim_263_4?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41xeCvxvLdL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=15HM852D3AFHRX18VJ0X
I'm going to go into detail on the equipment I bought with my next video (and I've got a really fascinating powerpoint presentation where I try to explain a little electrical theory without putting everyone to sleep). I'll answer your question here though:
I started with a kit that came with the wires you're asking about. The solar panels have those short (2 or 3 feet) wires that end with what's called an MC4 connector. The wires have the MC4 connector on one end, and a bare wire on the other. The MC4 is a weatherproof, snap-on connector.
For the second panel, I had to get the MC4-tipped cables separately. From browsing YouTube, it looks like you can save some money by buying the connectors alone and splicing them onto a wire. I didn't feel like messing with this.
I got all my stuff on Amazon. Here's the list:
The parts for my installation came out to a little over $400.
Hope that helps! :)
Remove the dash piece under the steering column and then the metal plate behind it to gain access to the main ignition harness that goes up to the steering wheel. Cut back the wire loom and look for a heavier guage solid pink or pink with black stripe wire. Make sure to test it with a dmm that it goes from 0 to 12v with the key turning on and off. You will need to get an inline fuse holder like this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KR88A/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1452992553&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=inline+fuse&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41xeCvxvLdL&amp;ref=plSrch and a 10 amp fuse to go in the fuse holder. Solder one side of the inline fuse holder into the pink or pink/black wire and wire an extension wire to go from the other side of the fuse holder up to the radio. Wire the extension to the red ignition wire of the aftermarket deck harness and test that it turns on and off with the key. Once that's done bolt the metal plate back up then the under dash and put the rest back together.
Hella Supertones, like the other guy said. I have them on my NA, they're awesome. A ton louder and attention getting than the stock "meep meep" horn they came with, even though mine are in the stock horn location behind the bumper.
Subaru drivers seem to like these
Found those horns much cheaper: http://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
I know they've got the Subaru stigma attached to them, but Hella's SuperTone horns are an amazing upgrade for not a ton of money.
2014 S+ here, One of the first things I did was upgrade the horn. I didn't find it too difficult to do myself.
If I remember right, connected the power straight to the battery positive and grounded out to the body. When mounting them I used two existing threaded holes with only having to add a second bolt.
Makes a big difference with other cars being able to hear me. I've even seen a couple in cars jump a little when I use it.
I use these and they seem to get the job done very efficiently.
Get some Hella, Super Tones. Everyone will hear the damn train horn from hell.
Actually they're aftermarket horns haha https://www.amazon.com/HELLA-003399801-Supertone-High-Bracket/dp/B000CRZXPI
2014 here also. I rarely use my horn, so it isn't a huge deal to me, but I agree it's very weak. I've considered going with these: Hella horn.
Not too expensive, and would be a fun little project. I think these are one of the most common that people upgrade to.
GOOD SHIT MAN. here you go.
If you're not as tech savvy like me, I also got the subimod harness as well! it's expensive as fuck but made the install 10000000% easier. I didn't have any of the tools either. its a literal plug and play. lets just put it this way. it took longer to take the front bumper off TBH. LOL
Put them on BLAST!
Looks like Hella Supertones (aftermarket horns).
Sounds like it's time to upgrade your friend's horns to these.
My supertones are used almost exclusively for cabs. That, or idiots doing insane things around the Tim Horton's at Marion and Archibald (which should be deemed a public safety hazard and closed).
HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ibSYzbX5ZVQYM
Got two. Duel tones, one does a high pitch and one does a lower pitch.
I'm pretty sure this is the one I bought: HELLA 003399801 Supertone 12V High Tone/Low Tone Twin Horn Kit with Bracket https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CRZXPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CIBWzbM36B7E0
That's actually a really good price for them too.
I was wondering too and googled a few of the mods he listed below, looks like they're Hella Supertones
Heated seats...sounds like you got the Mazda 3s Grand Touring. Assuming you have the factory HID's and LED tail lights, so no need to upgrade those. Unless you can find the clear projector lens to swap into your headlights.
Summer tires, if you live in the right climate. Extremely durable, better performing, and with better ride quality Koni FSD dampers as the OEM ones fail/leak prematurely. OEM big brake kit. Lots of advantages to this versus an aftermarket braking solution.
Do you have the manual transmission? OEM leather and piano black shift knob from European markets. OEM heated side view mirrors if not equipped, which I've found to clear away fog and rain pretty quickly. The Corksport Mazda3/Mazdaspeed3 steering wheel looks really, really good and almost OEM (black inserts/black stitching). Aftermarket HVAC knobs.
Speaking of rain, Valeo 900 Series/Ultimate wipers for a cleaner & more premium OEM look. Did the +1 driver/-1 passenger mod and lowered the passenger/right side windshield wiper to a more tucked position, and it won't flap at very high speeds or windy conditions.
LED interior/exterior lights - For the trunk, get this in the 5K color. For your license plate and front map lights, get these in the 5K color. Haven't found any rear dome festoon/DE3175 LED bulbs that I'm happy with yet (VLEDS, Retrofit Source, ijdmtoy, superbrightleds, Corksport, etc). Not bright enough, not white enough (usually a blue tint), bleeds different colors, etc. I may try an interior set from GTA Retrofits. For your glove box, either this in 5,000K or a Sylvania/Philips/Osram 194 LED bulb in 6,000K. Went with the latter since they were left over from experimentation and are actually closer to a 5,000-5,500K, even though they're listed as 6,000K.
Fiamm low tone horn to compliment the wimpy high tone.
There's more but that's all I have time for =)
I watched this vid and purchased the same horn soon after. It's decent, and not douche-level loud. He has a bunch of vids on wrenching and modding VStars.
You can get the horn on Amazon here.
I have 2 FIAMM 721X2 horns, they are the standard electromechanical type like this. There's really not much difference between this horn and any other standard automotive horn, they're all very similar.
Here's one for sale on amazon, but I got them as a two pack with both the high-low tone horns in one package from an auto parts store. Here's the exact converter I had.
I don't understand why this information is of any use, I would think component level model numbers like what chip was actually used in the converter, what the switching transistor, output capacitors, etc would be 1000x more useful.
You must take a part front bumper. But Ieave undercover bolts. You have to take other bolts tho from tire and top part. It opens like books. And you can just put it back. No car lifting. Its on youtube and amazon is pretty good. I just replaced with this.
FIAMM 72112 Freeway Blaster Low Note Horn https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000DINKPQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_3iI6Cb1BXRJPR
I use this one and the high tone one and they are loud as hell.
Bought this exact one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000DINKPQ
Buy several to really multiply the drown-out-ability.
You mean like using one of these from the local car parts depot !
ahah didn't see your tag before; I used to live near GR. heres one looks like the cost of a horn is between $30-60. You can probably find tutorials yourself on how to do it, I'm sure most of them just hook up to the wiring of your current horn system.
Thanks for the tips. I'm kicking myself because I just donated a box of old wall transformers that I would've saved had I known. I know I have a couple of 12v/5amp wall transformers from old HDDs that I might try for home use. I was thinking about this adapter for car use.
I was also wondering if you knew what sort of antenna I should look for. The radio came with a small one, however the wiring on the antenna doesn't connect to the radio correctly. The radio has a screw type mount I'm not familiar with, but was hoping it might be a cb standard and easy to find a replacement for.
The Uniden 520 is a great choice for a basic radio. I've been using one for years with excellent results. It's really hard to beat for the size/money.
Consider the K30 magnet mount antenna for an alternative in that size.
I've used both it and the Little Wil and found the K30 to perform noticeably better. It's also less expensive:
The other commenter that suggested getting an SWR meter is also correct. These antennas all require some degree of adjustment for optimal performance. Just a basic meter will work fine.
And the jumper:
The meter and jumper is something you'll very rarely need (just when moving the setup to a different vehicle, for the most part) so if you husband has a friend into CB or HAM operation, he may be able to borrow one for a few minutes rather than buying.
Finally, you'll need some way to power the radio. The easiest way is with a lighter plug:
Just cut the connectors off the ends of the wires and splice it with the ones on the radio.
Alternatively, you can connect to the fuse box with an Add-A-Circuit. These come in different sizes depending on the fuses in your car. You can get one of these for less than $10 at any auto parts store.
Running it to the battery is the best option. You would need to run the wire under your carpet, find or drill a hole in your firewall and thread it through. If you don't want to go through that trouble you can just use a cigarette lighter plug
Would one of these be better than the other?
Its doable with two cheap adapters. You need to forget the trailer plug. Wire the 12v light strip to a male cigarette lighter plug. Then purchase an adapter that plugs into the wall socket and has a female 12v PowerPoint.
There is /r/cbradio, but I pretty much just googled everything. I bought these items and I'm pretty happy with them:
Uniden 520XL - Nice, small, cheap radio
Cigarette Lighter Power Adapter
K40 Magnet Mount Antennae with wiring - it is 15 feet of wire so that should be enough to go from the trunk lid to your dash.
SWR tester - this is to test your SWR and make sure the antennae is tuned properly, it also comes with a jumper wire to connect to your radio
If you need help with anything let me know. The CB has been very helpful on I-75, but on Daniels in Fort Myers and Golden Gate Parkway in Naples I have not had any success getting traffic updates etc. which I expected, but it's definitely super helpful on the interstate.
Yeah.. it's been a PITA so far because I've blown two fuses inside this piece of crap cigarette lighter plug w/ leads..
What did you do for this?
I have used this and this. It does the job. The down side is it takes a little bit to get it paired up every time and then it displays in SD. You won't need a chrome cast, it has it built in.
I have one, works great, however it was a little confusing for me at first, but now that I get the menus it is great.
I picked up one of these for my power supply and I was going to just clip off the cigarette lighter and solder the thing together with the charger, then I realized I can get one of these and now I can use the charger in my car too. The power supply may be a little weak, since I can only charge at 5.8Amps max, but it works for me, and was cheap.
I also picked up this and this now I can charge just about anything.
Not necessarily at night, just whenever you're done driving for the day and getting ready to sleep.
If you want something small, look at the Midland 75-822 and a Wilson Little Wil antenna. That Midland CB comes with a car adapter that basically makes the whole unit a CB mic with all the controls on it.
Edit: and you'll need separate co-ax cable to connect the CB and the antenna.
cobra 75 with a little will antenna.
For a car like yours and for what you want to do, I would go with this:
Inexpensive. Quality. They've been making them for decades and they work quite well.
I have the K30 on top of my Camry now.
It's a 35" antenna: Shorter than the Firestiks, K40, and the same-ish length as the "Lil Wil."
Even that is pushing the height, as I have to stop and take my antenna off before going into many parking garages now (I just unscrew the antenna from the mount and stash it inside the car). If you don't want to have to do that, figure out what your maximum height is going to be for the places you're likely to go, and then stay under that when choosing an antenna. You won't get as good performance as if you had a full-length antenna... but you'll probably get good enough and you've already decided you're not mounting an 8.5 foot antenna so it's moot.
You could have a slightly longer antenna if you mounted it to your trunk, than to your roof. Different people will tell you differently about whether that's going to help at all and I'm not a radio engineer so I can't help you there. With that in mind, most of the antennae suggested so far would probably work for your form factor (amazon links chosen at random, for illustrative purposes only):
With my 35" antenna around 7 feet in the air, powered by my 4-watt car radio, the longest I've skipped a clear conversation is ~1,348 miles (and I receive from all of the US, southern Canada, and Hawaii). I don't have a decent measure of the line-of-sight range yet as there seem to be precious few locals around where I live.
I note that it looks like the Firestiks are often sold separately from their mounts, whereas the Lil' Wil and K30/40 come with everything you need (antenna, mount, coax).
Same exact one that /u/ImALittleCrackpot posted!
But when I purchased mine, I didn't need to buy a separate co-ax like they mentioned. My Little Wil antenna has one permanently attached to it. About 18' long.
Here it is
They definitely do have crap range inside with the default antenna, but using an external antenna would remedy that. Theres a ton of 300-500 watt antennas on Amazon that mount with a magnet. Unscrew the default one replace with one like the little wil and boom better range.
If anything a harness won't hurt. I upgraded to the Hella e-codes and versus stock wiring there was a noticeable increase in light output.
I'm thinking it's your headlight switch or this is your problem...
I had a similar issue with my XJ. Electronically there is no other form of resistance on the wire when off then the switch and over time it can wear out just like any other component. I installed this wiring harness that added relays to the circuit. not only does it brighten up your headlights but it removes the load from your switch. Its a really simple install, the hardest part is taking off the grill.
I got the Hella housings that take an H4 bulb, then put SilverStars in them because I like the nice white color temperature.
I think the biggest difference honestly came from this harness. With it bypassing the stock wiring (if I remember correctly it just uses the stock light cables to trip the relays) it can supply a lot more juice from the battery.
I have the 55/60 watt bulbs now, but I might swap in the 90/100's when these go since the harness can support them.
This would be the better option, wouldn't it? It converts it from 9004 to H4 safely?
Unfortunately if you are on a paved road, its illegal to have auxiliary lights turned on (unless its a private road). Have you considered upgrading to an H4 harness on your lights with relays?
Also, how old are the current headlights? Over time, bulbs get dim. If they are really old, you may just need new lights
It says it doesn't fit, but it does. Trust me, I'm a stranger on the internet.
The thing that sucks about Cherokee headlights IS the wiring.
Buy this and install it.
Changing the lights themselves will not help without feeding them ample current.
Stock lights work GREAT after you fix the wiring.
Not digital, but this analog gauge has been great: Joes Racing 32307 (0-60) PSI Tire Pressure Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00404WDUC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1mIBybTCYX6MQ
I've gifted it to several relatives. The large dial, half pound accuracy, and bleed off valve are great features.
I like the ones with a flex hose section like this:
I have one of these that I consistently use, which is the main thing. Get something that is of good quality, and use it almost exclusively if you can. I like the ease of something with a bleed-off valve, since ease of use will encourage you to check your tire pressure often.
I got something similar myself without the Snap-On premium several years back.
Best advice is to keep it simple. Focus on brakes and tires first! Do some basic setup and then recognize while you are on track when you are at the limit of your basic setup, then go from there.
You already have SS brake lines, good! Fill them with good 600°F brake fluid (several were mentioned already). Do this every few events and be meticulous about doing it RIGHT and making sure there are NO LEAKS. Safety first! This and pads are your #1 safety item. Then an instructor, then good tires, helmet, seat belts, etc. Again, keep it simple.
Use whatever rotors are on the car for now, and buy a set of these as backup whenever htey start to warp: Centric 120.40048CRY Cryostop Rotor
Brake Pads, order a set of Hawk HP+ pads. You will get advice all over the board on what is best and blah blah blah. These are great bang for your buck and you can street them as well.
Hawk Performance HB361N.622 HP Plus Brake Pad
Fronts are most important, do all 4 corners once you start to get comfortable with the car and/or go to a bigger track.
Think you're done with brakes? NOPE! Now let's talk heat. You're just starting to go on the track and want to be out for as long as possible to work on consistency and technique. If you're going to do any sizeable track with big braking zones you will want some way to keep the brakes cool. A lot of people poo-poo this step and then complain about how the stock brakes suck SO bad. I have had my s2k on CoTA, Road America, and BIR with zero brake fade with the setup I'm describing.
Option one: remove the dust shields, this will help reduce captivated heat
Option two: brake duct kit. DIY worked best for me:
-Lambert spindle mounts: http://www.lapponline.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&amp;cPath=65_66_67&amp;products_id=180
-Front Bumper inlets. WASP makes nice stuff but they SUCK to deal with and idk if they're even in business anymore. Several other options out there.
-Aircraftspruce.com has all the ducts and such you need:
Qty Ship B/O Item Unit Price Total Price
11 05-29910 SCAT-10 DUCTING 2 1/2" 7.500 82.50
6 QS200-40H BREEZE CLAMP 200-40H 1.880 11.28
1 01-00990 RESCUE TAPE 1" X 12' BLACK 9.350 9.35 (helps with rubbing)
3 05-02200 RUBBER "U" CHANNEL 1.350 4.05
50 11-04229 7" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-1-9 0.040 2.00
50 11-13475 14" 120LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-3-9 0.150 7.50
50 11-04058 14" 50LB NATURAL CABLE TIES MS3367-2-9 0.090 4.50
Subtotal: USD 121.18
Ok great, now you have good brakes, you already said you have RS3 tires on there, buy a nice tire gauge and keep an eye on pressures & tire wear!
Joes Racing 32307
While you're at it, check the oil. Seriously, these things can (but don't necessarily) burn through a lot of oil depending on conditions and the track. Just keep an eye on it and plan for keeping an eye on it. Not a bad thing.
Get a good basic alignment on the car, max out the stock adjusters for camber front and rear, zero toe front and about .25" total toe in the rear, then you're good to go! If you are feeling DIY-ish pick up a Quick Trick alignment kit to bust this out quick and easy in your garage or at the track.
Once you get comfy with the car however you have it setup today suspension/wheel-wise, you can start to look at a few next-steps. Do all of these at the same time as its the combo that shines over any one part.
-lowering springs/coilovers (I did ohlins, so awesome)
-front swaybar (A simple eibach will do!)
-front bumpsteer correction kit/spacers
-17x8.5 or 17x9 square wheel setup with 255/40-17 tires. RS3's, Maxxis, VR1, are great lapping-day options. RE71R for quick/short/fast hot laps.
1 rule: HAVE FUN!
I think having an accurate gauge is important, I tend to trust the mechanical gauges a little more and I don't worry about dead batteries. I also try to buy American when possible :)
Get yourself a nice gauge like this: http://amzn.com/B00404WDUC
Makes a world of difference. It's got a pressure release button and a lot more accurate than the pencil style that a lot of people use.
EASY! you can do the install yourself ALL those Chrysler RES NON boston radios are nothing special. i done a FULL system in my 2012 200 (dual amps, new speakers, head unit and subwoofer). Right so head over to amazon or crutchfeild.
for a new radio you'll need a idatalink RR module and CH-1 plug and play harness to retain your steering wheel buttons.
for your dash kit to fit a new radio you have 2 options. SINGLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK644 DOUBLE DIN: Best Kits BKCDK642 Since you want a touch screen you need the double din kit
SPEAKERS: Doors and rear deck are 6x9s and dash are 3.5's. for the doors NO ADAPTERS ARE NEEDED and MOST 3.5's for the dash wont need mounting adapters either. But check on crutchfied for fit as the real nice chunky woofers dont fit. But Rockford Fosgate PUNCH, Infinity reference, Kenwood Excelon and Focal Integration will drop right in if you just cut the plastic "cup" the original speakers sit in.
you do have to pop the door panels off to get to the speakers and the dash speakers you have to take the A-pillar trim pieces off. rear deck the rear seat needs folded down and more C-pillar plastic trim popped off. theres better guides online then i can describe on a text post.
the best buy free installation probably doesnt include the smart harness required to swap out the factory radio
I don't think so, i'm pretty sure it's the iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR module that is relaying the information to the stock display, which is a really nice feature
You may want to look into this converter and do some research.
Remember 10?-14 radios are for the most part identical. With almost any new vehicle the temp controls are mixed in with the stereo.
Your going to need everything you would normally need for a stereo install. Wire harness, Antenna adaptor, ect.
If you have sync and want to continue to use the wheel controls, ect you will need this.
iDatalink Maestro ADS-MRR Factory Integration Adapter by iDatalink Maestro http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E4W1644/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_n4J-tb0474KE1
Lastly you would need the dash kit. There are many to pick from.
Metra 99-5826CH Ford Mustang 2010-Up DIN/DDIN Dash Installation Kit by Metra http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008E9HIPO/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_I2J-tb1PSPNRZ
Scosche FD1441B 2010 Ford Mustang Double DIN and DIN with Pocket by Scosche http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00664KRCU/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_k3J-tb16NT8BY
ADS MUS1 Radio Installation Kit for 2010-2014 Ford Mustang ADS-KIT-MUS1 by ADS Tech http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FEIDS1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_04J-tb1XSYPE7
Metra 99-5823CH Dash Kit for Ford Mustang 2010 Excluding Navigation Equipped Models -Black by Metra http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0040QE8G2/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_n5J-tb1BW2604
This might be an elaborate way of answering your first question, but mostly I wanted to write out my experience of doing this exact thing. Also apparently I need to split this up into 2 replies.
I have an AVH-W4400NEX and a 2012 Prius Plug-In. After buying all the stuff I needed...
I believe I set aside a Saturday afternoon to swap it out myself, and also install a dash cam with both front and rear cameras (the car already had backup camera built in). I ended up working on this through all of the weekend, and then did some more tweaks the following weekend.
it's complicated, i did it when i first bought my 16'.
and don't let just any audio installer do it, they'll just hack the shit out of the harness.
you need about $200 in parts besides the headunit to do it properly
shit and it looks like the link to the blog on how to do it is gone :(
basically you need:
dash install kit
wire to keep OEM backup camera
30pin adapter you'll cut it in half and use it for hooking all these various things together
Maestro to retain steering wheel control, there's a cheaper version though with less features
adapter to retain USB
adapter for stock antenna
adapter for radio so you don't have to cut anything
and i'm pretty sure i'm forgetting something else.
most of these things all have to be wired into the 30 pin connector, it was much easier to figure it all out on my workbench and solder it properly then install everything, took me about 2 days to do.
You can also get this: Amazon
This allows you to hook the steering wheel controls up, as well as allowing deeper integration to the car from the head unit through the CAN bus. I know a lot of the Kenwood Android Auto units have really good integration with this stuff.
I did a semi-hardwire install on my 2008 Civic. It is very simple.
Do you have any technical, hands-on skills?
Buy 1 of each. You can buy in AutoZone too.
Find a switched source (or constant if you have a camera that triggers when you are parked) using your multimeter, tap into it and route the wires. Should take 1-3 hours depending on your skills. DO NOT use the ScotchLok Taps.
What I did instead was buy a female cigarette lighter end (similar to below) and wire that into the power source. This way I didn't have to cut the dashcam power cord, and could move it to another car in the future.
Sounds like you're looking for a terminal block. You'll need a step down converter to take the 12v battery juice down to whatever your pi and cell phones require. You could also just wire a female car charger adapter and then use a car charger to properly do the voltage step down for charging cell phones and tablets. Raspberry Pi's require 5v and seem to work fine at USB 2.0's standard of .5 amps, but I'm pretty sure they'll work at the 2-3 amps most high end chargers utilize, but that all depends on what kinds of peripherals you'll be running.
That one is a 12v in but it's directly connected to an AC adaptor for a house, so I wouldn't touch it as you'd void any warranty cutting the wires. You can get something like this and wire it up with this, and your cigarette lighter should have enough amperage to power it unless it's not accessory in which case a relay can be used. Depends how technical you want to get with it.
It's really, really easy to add your own ambient lighting to the Focus (or any car really). Most LED strips are already 12v. They'd need an adapter from house wall power but in a car (the vast majority of them anyway) the 12V circuits are already there! If you're concerned about your own electrical knowledge they make kits too; they're pretty inexpensive and you could splice open that cigarette adapter line to wire it in directly or get something like this. Personally I'd buy my own strips, controllers, and hard wire it though (make sure you confirm controller works with your strip). Since you're in the footwell I'd also recommend weatherproof but it's not super necessary since it won't be directly exposed.
You could tap in to an accessory line/fuse to have them always on or get fancy and wire them in to the dash lighting for when the headlights are on so that they only come on at night. I just used these fuse taps the other day for a dash cam and radar detector install; make sure you have the right fuses for your install though. I had to pickup some lower amperage ones to properly protect my lower amperage gear.
Some LED strip lighting is easy to adhere or screw down depending on your preference and you can even get RGB and an IR/RF/bluetooth controller to customize.
Anyway, the whole thing should take nothing more than an hour or two and less than $100 in parts.
About the least expensive way you can wire this up to your fuse box is to buy a 'add-a-fuse' and a DIY lighter socket, together these will cost you $10.
and here is a video showing how to do it:
You can buy these parts locally at any automotive parts type store, NAPA for example.
Seems like the hardwiring kit in /u/nonvideas post is out of stock. You can use these two things instead:
This is what I used. There's a panel under the fuel lid/hood release latches that uncovers a small fuse panel. First, unscrew the big bolt you see (you may have to pry the bigger plastic cover slightly) using a 13mm socket. Tighten the bolt so that the black ground cable from the cigarette lighter thing is secure. Then, insert the red power cable into the red wire connector from the fuse tap and crimp the wire. Now you're ready to tap your fuse box. Take out the fuse you want to tap, insert it into the fuse tap, then insert the fusetap fuse into that same socket. Now you're tapped into the battery power and only the ignition will power the cigarette lighter.
cool i think i'll try them. is there a specific brand? are these the ones everyone has good experience with?
A little pricey for what you get, but worth it.
Thanks! I was considering these but they do seem very white: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HRMSX6W/
Yeah I was looking at that. I also noticed a few people on mazda247 went with This kit from Amazon $18.99. A bit curious what the quality difference and brightness is on them.
edit: Ended up ordering these. Someone on Mazda247 was recommending them and talking about how it uses the newer chipset. Not sure what the difference is, but for the price I figured I'd take a shot and if I didn't like it, at least it was a cheap mistake.
You're on the right track there. You'll need a cigarette lighter socket adapter and a battery charger. I have this one.
That should do it for you. You'll have the battery, the charger, the adapter and the fan. You'd also be able to add a light, phone charger, fridge, etc to the existing set up in the future.
The dovetail mounting plate that comes with it should have a 1/4in thread in it. I just went to Lowe's and bought a 1/4in screw and a felt pad for friction to slap my dslr on my Sirius. For power I use this https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/marine-and-boat/deep-cycle/bci-group-24m/sli24mdc with a $30 battery charger, and this http://www.amazon.com/BESTEK-Battery-Cigarette-Lighter-Extension/dp/B00JOY6U7U. A few users helped me out with my purchases so I'm just spreading the info along.
I use a 12v deep cycle battery. Something like this: https://www.batteriesplus.com/battery/sla-sealed-lead-acid/duracell-ultra/12/sladc12=35j
With one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JOY6U7U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
and something like this:https://www.amazon.com/Inverter-Anglink-Converter-Cigarette-Lighter/dp/B01KF4280K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478553668&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=lighter+power+inverter
My plan was to use one of those generic harnesses you can get on amazon
(Pair) 5''x7'' 6''x7'' High Low... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XRXTX32?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
SAMLIGHT Led Light Bar 2 PCS... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077VDYFWW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O72R7Z8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Wiring harness for the fog lamps
These are the brackets I used. These are the lights I used. Installation of the brackets is fairly straightforward. A guide comes with the purchase. Wiring the lights was probably the most difficult aspect just because I had to extend the reach of the relay . Feel free to ask me any more specific questions.
I had fog lights added to my '04 Grand Cherokee that didn't have the factory option. Holes were there already, but the wiring wasn't. I used this kit. The wires weren't long enough for my car, so more had to be added. Everything worked perfectly besides that.
I bought this wiring harness
It’s basically plug and play. Wire the lights. I mounted the relay next to the battery. Connect to battery, then run switch wires through the firewall and into the dash. Took me two hours.
Its this one here, for the 300w max, while the light bar is only abour 120W
The diagram for the wiring is the 4th pic down
Unfortunately without a wiring diagram of how you have it connected I'm not sure what the issue is. The wiring doesn't sound correct, you shouldn't be routing main power lines to a switch and you should try using relays kits such as linked below, you can get power from the cig lighter for the illumination for the switch.
They have an included wiring diagram and you only run a grounding wire inside to switch the main power which means you only need one wire running inside and you can ground to anything metal inside the cabin. Now on this switch Since it has illumination that's why it shows power wires to the switch but they show them as thin wires as this is just for an led which is super low current
Hi, thanks for the reply! Dealing with AC power seems a bit scary for a completely unexperienced person like me. I was trying to stay away from inverters, but I may not have a choice with my laptop. How much efficiency is lost from going from 12v to 110 to 19? On a separate note, have you had any experience with wiring 5v usb charger ports to the battery? Could I just use dc to dc converters with heatsinks?
Also, I'm a bit confused about the fuses. Right now I'm planning on hooking up the battery to 3 switches (master, 12v cig outlets, and usb), two 12v cig outlets, and two usb ports (usb on one connection). Between those things, I was thinking of setting up a fuse box with one of these with a 3a fuse for the usb ports and possibly 5a for the car chargers? I don't know if it would be better to use 3a since I'm just going to have a dew heater and maybe (if I can find an adapter) a charger for my laptop.
If I were to use the kind of fuse setup you mentioned, how would that work? It says it includes 40a fuses, would I just replace those with 10/15a? Also, if I were to use those wire fuses for each connection rather than a box like that, is there any downside to using different gauge wires? The website mostly says those wire fuses are 10 or 12 gauge while I was planning on using 16. I'm honestly not sure if I even need 16 for the setup or if I should just go with a thicker wire like 12 gauge for the entire setup.
I'm very interested in those powerpole connections.Do you have an example on your setup on how they are connected to the different components both inside the battery container and outside? Did you use the powerpoles on the inside or just normal wiring with insulated terminal connections?
>Edit: For external use of those powerpoles, would you remove the 12v adapter male end from the wires on the device, connect the wires to their associated powerpole connection, and then plug that into the powerpole box?
Here is what I crudely drew
This is the Radio
This is the Fuse Box
Basically where the fuse is going for the Radio I was wondering if I could cut them off and have it go from the fuse box to the radio and put a 15 amp fuse in and get the same results.
The fuse box on the radio is supposed to be plugged directly to the battery for max power but the auxiliary fuse box will be plugged the same way.
If not that's fine I just wanted to make sure before I went and cut it out and I will just run a wire from the battery to the radio.
I actually just bought this for a project on my jeep. Works really well and is pretty small.
Is there any reason why you wouldn't just buy a normal 12v relay and run it to the ignition switch from the fuse panel instead of spending $60 on one with a relay built in? For example use these:
Do you have a multi meter? Is the battery dead? Seems like a silly question, sorry. If that's all your going to run off your fuse block, you might not need that heavy duty thing. The only thing drawing the most amps is your bilge pump. I'm guessing around 15 amps. You won't need the ground bus bar if everything is on the battery. The negative side will essentially keep everything grounded.
I would think you only need something like this.
You just need to hook up the positive side of the battery to the post. Then properly fuse each output. Then run a return line to the negative terminal of the battery.
Most of my experience is navy radios and wiring police cars with all their sirens,lights, radios and what not.
Our grounds were essentially the body of the car which is connected to the negative end of the battery.
Just pay attention to your wire Guage too.
That's my chick.
Akrapovic carbon, crash cage (but don't get the one I have, go impaktech!), The front signals are high-tech speed proton 500s, the rear light has integrated signals here, the relay for the front (rear comes with them) here, tail tidy, stainless steel lines were easily the best upgrade by far. I bought it with a stoltec ECU flash (amazing), and racetech suspension front and rear (also awesome).
I just bought a 07 FZ6 and my blinkers/hazards were not working. I was at wits end because everything checked out. Turns out my signal relay (a 2 pin connector) was messed up.
Ordered http://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Electronic-Flasher-Motorcycle-Signal/dp/B00RM26LXO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453800145&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=motorcycle+signal+relay and pluged it in and now im blinking again.
dont know if this applies to your older bike though
Edit: My running lights, tail and brake were all working. Just no blinky
Here's what I'm using: https://www.amazon.com/iJDMTOY-Electronic-LED-Hyper-Issue/dp/B00RM26LXO
Plug and play for my '14 STR. You really only need two of the three wires if I remember correctly.
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Title | FZ-07 Progress Report
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Do you have a Ford? On my Mustang it would stay on. On my Ford Flex it stays on for 10 minutes after I've parked it. It was driving me nuts. Anyway, I do this for every car because it would free my cigarette lighter connector to put a phone charger on it, plus it looks like you don't have anything connected.
I hardwire and tap the fuse box to a fuse that turns off when I turn off the ignition key. The fuse shouldn't be something related to ECUs or safety, you don't want to mess with that just in case(Yeah, you might have to read the Owner's Manual. LOL no one reads it).
You can do it yourself by using a Voltage Continuity Tester.
Also you may need fuse taps, they are pretty cheap, and a Female Cigarette Lighter Socket Adapter. The Positive (Red) connected to the fuse tap cable and the Ground (Black) connected to any big screw into the car chassis. Then you hide it under the steering wheel with a zip tie and it's done.
EDIT: Just read your car is a lease, this install will not modify anything on it. Just unplug the fuse tap and replace the fuse, then unscrew the ground cable and it's done. You can use this on the next car you'll lease also.
You will still be able to use your 20A cigarette lighter along with the dash cam if you tap into and maintain a clean factory look. Once you get everything apart the back of your factory lighter plug will look kind of like this:
[Youtube link removed to appease the moderator bot] Just search youtube for cigarette lighter tap jeep
and you will just have to tap into the wires kind of like the guy does in the video by taking a razor blade and slicing away the sheathing of the cable (or using lighter to burn/melt a section of it away keeping a wet rag nearby). There are thousands of ways to skin this cat. The only thing I can highly advice AGAINST is using one of these: https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41xA0dDgkrL._SX355_.jpg Those things are evil and will cause headaches down the road.
If you choose not to use the battery discharge device you will have to buy an adapter to plug the USB charger into anyway ( https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN®-Cigarette-Lighter-Connector-Adapter/dp/B00RT5TE5Q/ ) so I would just use it if you already have it.
FWIW when I recommend dash cams to my family who don't want to slice up their wiring I just buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Electop-Cigarette-Lighter-Charger-Splitter/dp/B01HEV8LHG
and hide it well. For my own car I hard wired a accessory-switched 4-plug power splitter ( https://imgur.com/a/jSgZu ) and then converted my dash-port to always-on so if I park my car in a bad area I can just switch which port the dashcam is plugged into. Comes in handy for charging phones while car is off too since my car does not have an always-on plug from the factory. Back when I installed this dashcam voltage cutoffs were $50 so I do not have one but I've never had my battery run dead from my dashcam neither.... good luck and feel free to throw any more questions at me.
Doesn't look like anyone has what you need yet.
This is the kind I would recommend Dual USB Charger Power Socket 12V 1A 2.1A or 12V to 5V 3A USB Output Step Down Voltage Regulator, but no one seems to make a C version yet. 12v USB-C adapters seem to be limited to the cigarette lighter style plug.
You might just use a 12v socket like this one: 12V 5A Car Cigarette Lighter Socket with a USB C car charger and burry it in the dash or glovebox maybe. I did this with the power supply for my gps.
My car has a single cigarette lighter and nothing else so I got this for it. If your car already has USB slots I can see why you'd want to upgrade those though.
BESTEK 3-Socket 200W 12V/24V DC Cigarette Lighter Power Adapter with 6A 4-Port Car USB Splitter Charger https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00XP5C3XY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-424Cb8AY1Q5M
I got a car question if anyone can give me an answer.
I got one of these for my car for Christmas: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XP5C3XY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=3QTNG6ZAKQAQD&amp;coliid=I1YC9TQFV02LN9
I drive a 2006 Toyota 4runner. Been using this charger every day since Christmas. I charge my phone, I use a Bluetooth FM Radio adapter so I can stream Spotify to my car speakers, and I have a dashcam.
Mid February, I was driving home and the battery light came on. Thought I could make it home but my car died on 45 south and I had to be towed. Diagnosis was my alternator died. I had it replaced, $375 and change.
Today, battery light came on again. Instead of attempting to drive home, I called AAA and just got towed home, just in case. Could this car charger be the reason? I take it into the shop tomorrow to find out what is going on.
Yeah I got the car chager that came with the cable since I wasn't sure about 3rd party ones. I had to also get a cigarette adapter splitter since I'm running a bt adapter too. I kind of went nuts on it
There are a bunch on amazon. Some which include a fuse and other nice features... A lot of them have usb and 12v plugs all in one
this is one that i bought
This power bank has a hardwired switch on the back.
You can see how I mounted it in my CV here
This is what i use to monitor my power usage. It has an alarm feature that goes off when you hit a predetermined/adjustable voltage level.
bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Something to consider with a PVC shower, is supplementing your heat. Best way I've found to do so is to use a heating element like this one and couple it with a temp controller. This runs off 12v DC so you'd have to take into account electrical capacity, but I figure I could run that while on the move so the vehicle alternator takes the load, or from an onsite generator if you're in a fixed location.
Disclaimer: I have not run this yet, I'm still in the planning phases of a PVC shower. This was found through research.
Ive found this on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
Anyone have thoughts on this? Ive you read the reviews, in reference to van power, they're generally positive.
There are a bunch of devices like this. For ac and dc. Amaz, ebay, etc
My solar controller gives me the data via the web. I use one of the above for monitoring what goes to the inverter. i could put in a ac ammeter. hmmm. Probably will at some point.
you would put one between your solar controller and batteries ... and another between battery and inverter.
not sure how to send the data to the web.
Good stuff, thank you all. One more question though, regarding the battery monitor, in order to monitor the discharge rate and not go below 50%, do I need a victron BMV-700 ($150) or can I just use this bayite meter:
bayite DC 6.5-100V 0-100A LCD Display Digital Current Voltage Power Energy Meter Multimeter Ammeter Voltmeter with 100A Current Shunt https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RRC2CbRANNKNH
That's what I used. I disassembled my power cord where it meets the wires coming out of the power supply. I had the current ring between the power wire. Was pretty simple to do and it keeps track of current and power and total power used.
You'll be surprised that the dial to output won't be linear.
Battery Meter. Ive been toying with making one of these for a friend after I finish upgrading my camper. Someone else may be able to offer some more insight.
cool I got this https://www.amazon.com/bayite-6-5-100V-Display-Multimeter-Voltmeter/dp/B013PKYILS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482213946&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=shunt+12v
Added some monitors and shunts to the previous setup. What do you think?
Terminating 10# stuff
and terminal fuse
Look at this one also. Voltmeter.
Btw, i did buy this device with my system to monitor battery levels and draw. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013PKYILS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fridge consumption should be way under that. It sits idle most of the day. The 5.5a is a max rate I believe. At the bottom of this article, they address it a bit. https://www.4xoverlandadventures.com/2017-winter-fridge-shootout/3/
In theory, the solar should be more than enough I think. I think I am going to buy a meter or two so I can measure amp draw from the accessories and another to measure panel production. I wish there was a unit that just displayed both but I don't see one.
Okay, would this do it?
Attached in the same way like you recommended?
Also, I have no idea how much current will come out of this thing. Is there any drawback to getting a larger one?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013PKYILS/ref=pd_aw_sim_469_1?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=HG4PM9RREG7NGDCR0Z0V this is the dc ver but you wouldint need a 100 amp one
I used these. No extra switch when i turn my key the lights come on. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DYQM6EO?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I used fuse taps when I wired mine: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO (I didn't get these specific ones--my dashcam came with some already). Find a place in the fuse box to tap into switched or always-on power, plug in the original fuse, plug in the dashcam fuse, wire your power up to the other end, run it however and that's about it. No need to cut any wires or splice into anything with T-taps.
https://github.com/fochica/fochica-wiki/wiki/Fuse-tap-guide has lots more detail.
these add a circuit work great and allow for a fuse on both the original circuit and the added one. As long as you aren’t drawing crazy amps where the original wires can’t handle it your fine. A cell phone booster should be fine
Powering the mirror with a cig lighter.... LOL I can't believe they included that. That's really fucking stupid. LOL
Anyway, yes, you can extend the power wires for the mirror so they'll run up into the headliner, across to an a-pillar, down the a-pillar and to your fuse box. Find a fuse that turns on/off with the car and use one of these. 15A is more than enough.
AUKEY CC-S1 Car Charger, Flush Fit Dual Port 4.8A Output for iPhone iPad Samsung & other - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M6QODH2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_RMwezbEHZQ8SE
Ginsco Dual USB Charger Socket Power Outlet 2.1A & 2.1A（4.2A） for Car Boat Marine Mobile with Wire Fuse DIY Kit Blue LED https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N6S2SNM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_taa_nOwezbM2AG9AZ
It's cost and benefit thing. There are more electricity heavy appliances now than in 76 and have the opportunity to covert propane appliances to electricity. I have a dedicated 20 amp circuit in my kitchen area and my fridge, microwave, and induction cooktop, and ice maker runs while another 20 amp dedicated service in my bathroom runs the dual mode 10 gallon water heater. I haven't used any propane this year at all. If my wife used blow dryer at the same time, it won't trip the circuit. I do have 2 ACs, also on their own dedicated circuit but that I concede was an overkill... We simply never needed 2 this year. But if we ever do, I can run both at the same time while everything else is running without fear of tripping any circuit. It's the difference of having 30 amp available and 100 amp available.
The cost of conversion was very reasonable. The biggest expense was a [Progressive Dynamics converter panel] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UC8PN0/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) at $282 but I'd have to purchase a new converter panel for 30 amp anyway since I scraped the crappy 2 circuit one that the Airstream came with. 25 ft of 50 amp RV power cord was $100. Both of these I was going to replace so the true cost is actually less than the total. Add to this the circuit breakers and that's the cost of upgrading 30 amp to 50 amp. Just the peace of mind to run anything at anytime was worth it. The induction hot plate heats faster than propane and I have the peace of mind of not having an open flame inside, especially with 2 little kids. The Dometic dual mode water heater is great. I usually have the Airstream parked at home for a day before we leave and I preheat the water then and when we arrive at a campsite, the water takes maybe another hour to heat to hot with electricity and keeps up with usage while camping. We have another hot plate and electric grill we set up outside, plugged to the outside outlet (shared with interior AC circuit) and those run fine while everything inside is running. I did go a little crazy with the inside outlets... I think I have 16 or 17 outlets inside but hardly anything is plugged in that circuit other than TVs. Small electronic devices are connected to the 12 v system using 12v to 5v [USB sockets] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N6S2SNM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1). I have about 8 of those.
Anyway, 50 amp gives you flexibility at not a very high cost. Even if I'm reno'ing a Bambi, I'd still put in 50 amp.
Well, I'm pretty sure the primary intention for them is USB sticks or the likes for media files, so it makes sense since the infotainment makes use of that and for working with firmware and the likes.
I kind of doubt you'd be able to modify that without extensive circuit work. You'd be better off adding another Set of USB ports to the car that are hardwired and meant for high output charging. You'd just need to cut the trim to add the outputs. Something like this would do it:
The USB 2.0 standard is 500 mAh for data transfer. So it still technically charges, just really, really slow. USB 3.0 I believe is 900mAh (there's 5 extra contacts, which is more than likely why).
...hope you dont have any neighbors.
Easiest way? Get a small 50watt solar panel, a usb adapter, and one of those portable bluetooth speakers with built-in batteries. wire it up, mount it somewhere sheltered from rain, and you're good to go.
usb adapter: https://www.amazon.com/Ginsco-Charger-Socket-Outlet-2-1A（4-2A）/dp/B01N6S2SNM
bluetooth speaker with 8hrs battery: https://www.amazon.com/Bose-SoundLink-Color-Bluetooth-speaker/dp/B01HETFQKS (something with a remote would be best)
Throw one of these bad boys in your system with a switch and youre good to go. Ive taken my kit out playing Pokemon go and recharged multiple phones without putting much of a dent in the battery. Im sure someone can do the math, but those power banks that will charge your phones like 5 times are 10 AH 5 volt, so lord knows how long you can charge your phone of a 12 volt 35 AH stepped down to 5 volts.
DC-DC is preferred for the reasons you note. There are tons of DC laptop chargers and usb outlets.
On parts of my build where they would show and need to access plugging I am using this kind of usb outlet (about 1/2 the price on eBay). Where they do not show and I need a permanent 5v supply I use bare components kinda like this, which are about $2-$3 each shipped from China. Both are on switches so the converters aren't using power when not in use.
Lights don't "pull 12v", they need 12v to work and then use/pull X amount of amps. I think you're confused by the difference between volts, amps, and how fuses work. Voltage is like the measure of force moving the electricity (electrons) through the wire, and amps is the measure of how much electricity is moving through the wires.
The fuse numbers are the rating that the fuse blows at, not how much that circuit uses normally. Like if your radio only uses 8A peak, then it would run through a fuse that is rated at 10A, so if it ever spikes above 10A, then the fuse blows and opens the circuit to protect from damage.
Anyway, I would pick a fuse slot that powers an accessory, like the radio fuse or the 12V accessory port(/cigarette lighter. Whatever you call it). So if the fuse were to blow, the only thing that is affected is just the lights and the accessory port.
Easiest thing to do is get a fuse tap and use it to install your lights. That way you don't have to cut any wires on your car and everything is properly protected. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=fuse+tap&qid=1571284619&sr=8-3
On my car with how I have the Android mirror wired up it turns on with the key on ACC or when starting the car, and the Android mirror stays powered until I turn the key to OFF.
It took a lot of probing around to find the fuses I needed to tap off of, but the Android mirror came with a cheap but usable power probe tool that works even better than a multimeter for finding fuses with and without power.
I ended up using the two fuses:
I also used "Add-a-circuit Fuse TAP Adapters" to tap off of the fuses so I did not have to cut or tap off of wires:
Floor lights: https://www.amazon.com/LEDGlow-Million-Color-Underdash-Interior/dp/B004N6YRDS/ref=pd_day0_263_3?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BCYSQ22HXC5N63B4ZG2H
Add a fuse circuit: https://www.amazon.com/10-Pack-Add-circuit-Adapter/dp/B01DYQM6EO/ref=sr_1_5?s=automotive&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511740880&amp;sr=1-5&amp;keywords=car+wire+taps
You will also need a 5 amp car fuse. Auto zone has them for about 1$.
Use the hood release bolt as a ground point for the lights.
If you run the wires correctly it looks 100% OEM I set the LED color to match the red trim on my car and it looks so good!
Zip ties help and a coat hanger to run the wires through tough spots.
Step one: Buy these: http://www.amazon.com/Hella-SuperTone-Horn-Kit-118/dp/B000CRZXPI
Step two: Install in front bumper, facing forward
Step three: Honk/flash high beams to get people to move. 118 deb of fury is like the parting of the red seas. It's amazing. :D