Best video converters according to redditors
We found 2,390 Reddit comments discussing the best video converters. We ranked the 468 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 2,390 Reddit comments discussing the best video converters. We ranked the 468 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
![J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, 18Gpbs Bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 [JTD18G-H5CH]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41gFrzlguGL.jpg)
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G
We already have a lagless way to play melee on monitors. The problem is melee players are pretty particular about lag and decent monitors are expensive. It saves a ton of space but 1k+ is a lot of money if you want to have like 10 setups.
One of the reasons melee is so uniquely successful at a local level is because setups are cheap as fuck so you have people like me who can buy 4-5 full setups for the price of 1 monitor or console and can host a tourney anywhere or make sure there's always enough setups for friendlies.
That said a melee re release would still being melee to a new audience, hopefully it just isn't laggy.
This is really good for a Wii. Converts the output to HDMI.
Sewell Wii to HDMI Converter, Low Latency, 480p
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/
Edit: why downvotes? This was super recommended in a recent thread about an HDTV setup?
If you don't want to watch the video that's cool, here's a summary;
Over the last few months I've been testing various cables for use with my four sensor setup. What I quickly discovered was that not all cables are created equal in the eyes of the Oculus Rift!
The Rift and Sensors can be a bit stubborn when it comes to cables. Some work intermitantly, some report USB 3.0 as USB 2.0, some give audio issues when using with the Rift and some just point blank refused to work.
I think I've finally nailed down the best cables which I've personally tested and would recommend to use with your Rift.
Due to the summer sale I know we have an influx of new Rift users so hopefully this guide helps.
Here's the links where you can buy these cables for yourself;
Cable Matters USB 3.0 3M /10FT Extension Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_3?th=1
US - https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-SuperSpeed-Female-Extension/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503739950&sr=8-1&keywords=cable+matters+superspeed+usb+3.0
KabelDirekt 2m / 6FT HDMI Extension Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B013ICN59Y/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_2
US - https://www.amazon.com/KabelDirekt-Extension-Cable-1080p-Ethernet/dp/B012ASNHIG/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740842&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=kabeldirekt+2m+extension
DVI to HDMI Adapter:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=pe_1909131_77697001_tnp_email_TE_AMZLdp_1
US - https://www.amazon.com/Rankie-2-Pack-Gold-Plated-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00ZMVGTA2/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740883&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=DVI+to+HDMI+adapter&psc=1
CableCreation 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Fine For Sensors BUT Causes Audio Issues When Using With Rift):
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740956&sr=8-7&keywords=cable+creations+usb+3.0
US - https://www.amazon.com/CableCreation-Active-Extension-Extender-Female/dp/B0179MXKU8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740977&sr=8-1&keywords=cablecreation+usb+3.0
UGREEN 5M / 16FT USB 3.0 Active Extension Cable (Additional Power Micro USB Port isn't required when using the Rift. Do not use this with the Rift as may cause damage)
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/UGREEN-Extension-Amplifier-PlayStation-loudspeakers/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741031&sr=8-2&keywords=ugreen+oculus+cable
US - https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Extension-Repeater-Amplifier-Superspeed/dp/B01FQ88CE6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741078&sr=8-5&keywords=ugreen%2Busb%2B3.0%2Bextension&th=1
AmazonBasics High-Speed HDMI 4.6M / 15FT Cable:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B014I8TOTC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
US - https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Rated-Wall-Installation-Cable/dp/B014I8TOTC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1503741177&sr=8-2&keywords=AmazonBasics+High-Speed+HDMI+CL3+Cable
Mini HDMI Repeater Extender:
UK - https://www.amazon.co.uk/Repeater-Extender-130FT-Support-Switch/dp/B01MDS8DJH/ref=sr_1_11?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1503740907&sr=1-11&keywords=hdmi+repeater
US - https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1503740927&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+repeater
Hope this helps :)
This is what I have experimented with and works great on multiple systems... For you look at step 2 and 3.
1st GET A THIRD SENSOR IF YOU WANT TRUE ROOMSCALE "they are on backorder at the moment"
2nd Get three of these for your sensors to make sure they can reach anywhere you want them too: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
3rd Get 2 of these to completely isolate all of you VR components from the sometimes janky unreliable USB ports on A LOT of motherboards that cannot supply enough power and/or bandwidth for all of the cameras and HMD to work properly I chose this card because it only has two ports and both of those ports work no matter if you plug in 2 sensors or 1 sensor and the HMD. The Inatek card DOES have issues for somewhere some ports work and others do not and are still only being able to run 2 sensors off the Inatek card and having to run the HMD and 3rd sensor off the motherboard. The Orico card just works and you don't have to think about experimenting with ports just plug everything into the two Orico cards in any configuration and go. Also use the default Windows drivers whether you go with the Inatek or Orico card only upgrade after trying the defaults drivers without success: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AVSN2YG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
4th This is optional. One of these for extending your HMD HDMI cable by 15ft for a total of 28ft: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
5th This repeater is required to make the HDMI cable above work, but with this repeater, the extension is flawless: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
6th To extend the Rift HMD USB I use the USB 2.0 Active Extension Monoprice Repeater Cable that comes with the 3rd sensor it is 16ft long, works perfectly. Then I used a small piece of electrical tape every 6 inches from the HMD to the PC to make the extended HMD cable one piece leaving about 2 ft of cable loose at the end to be able to plug in wherever I want.
I did a lot of research bought the Inateck and Orico USB add-on cards, multiple active USB extensions, multiple different HDMI adapters and extensions of varying lengths, Display port to HDMI adapters, DVI to HMDI adapters, and did all the experimentation and testing required to make all this work. The list I listed above works every time on multiple systems in different environments, rooms, and households.
If you need clarification on anything and/or want more information, feel free to respond or message me. I will gladly help.
After you get your USB cards installed and you sensors plugged in with the hardware I listed above reboot the system and the follow the below instructions.
Also when you get your stuff after everything is installed and setup do this as a last step for good measure:
Once the sensor setup has fully completed, search for PowerShell in the Windows start menu, right click it, and click 'Run as administrator'
Copy all of this PowerShell script (hit Ctrl-A, then Ctrl-C), then paste it into the PowerShell window (Ctrl-V), then hit Enter
Once it has completed, close PowerShell and restart your computer (this is important)
Here is the link to the script, just copy all the text on the page and past it into powershell: http://pastebin.com/raw/9f9MMny1
This basically sets all of your usb cards and ports to a high power no sleep mode and assures that Windows doesn't try to manage your usb's at the wrong time in the wrong way. I am not sure if I needed to do this but I just did it for good measure. I did all of the manually until I found this script that somebody else on reddit made. Just makes it quicker and easier than changing all the settings one by one.
Note if you haven't done this already you can do it now with your current setup to see if it helps "Probably won't but it may"
Use a headless display
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
You bought one that takes HDMI in and outputs it to RCA. You need one that takes RCA and outputs it to HDMI. In your photo HDMI is clearly labeled "IN" and the component is clearly labeled "Out". These boxes only work in one direction.
Edit: You want this but you bought this
Your best option is to plug directly into your receiver if it has an HDMI port. If it does but they are full, you can get an external switch to change sources, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B46XUQU/. If neither of those options work, an audio extractor is your next option, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/. This will still output HDMI video, but also send the digital audio out an optical port so you still get surround sound, though you will probably get a few milliseconds of lag, probably nothing too noticeable. In the magical event you don't even have optical, it still has stereo outputs which, for music, will be just fine.
This!
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NS0UUQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
Works for my N64 on my insignia.
you're absolutely right that there is dedicated hardware which can do it out there -- for example these are a common recommendation -- but they've only recently come down in price. Free CRTs from the trash are cheaper (and simpler to explain to the non-technical members of the community, though it can lead to misunderstandings as in this thread)
Mac Mini (2018 model), named NOSTROMO
Mac Mini (2010 model), named SPUNKMEYER
MacBook Pro Retina 15” (2015 model), named SULACO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named FERRO
Mac Mini (2012 model), named AURIGA
Both the 2012 Minis and the 2010 Mini are completely headless. Unfortunately, this means that accessing them via remote desktop gives you a measly 800x600 resolution. I use this handy little gadget on both of them to replicate a 1920x1080 display being connected. So, when I connect via Screen Sharing I get a nice big display.
MacBook Pro (2018 model), named APLC02XV5W1JGH5
iPad Pro 10.5", named APONE
iPhone X, named RIPLEY
LG Blu-Ray reader/writer in connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0, used for ripping Blu-Rays and DVDs
Sabrent USB 3.0 Dual-Bay Hard Drive Dock, also connected to NOSTROMO via USB 3.0
The microphone is a Yeti Blue with a Nady Pop Filter, coupled with a Logitech HD C310, used for Google Hangouts and FaceTime calls with the fam, and the occasional podcast. It is mounted on a RODE PSA1 Swivel Mount Studio Microphone Boom Arm and a RADIUS II Microphone Shock Mount.
The mousepad is an XTracPads Ripper XXL mousepad
The chair is a Raynor Ergohuman ME7ERG desk chair
I use Dropbox to expertly keep my content in sync. Due to the amount of content I keep in there, it is well worth the $100 per year for a Dropbox Pro subscription.
Additionally throughout the house, I have...
3 Eeros for my Mesh Wireless Network WiFi System
2 Apple TVs (4K), named ASH and CALL
1 Apple TV (4th Generation), named BISHOP
1 Apple HomePod, named DIETRICH
1 Nest Hello Video Doorbell, named HELLO
1 Nest Learning Thermostat, named NEST (yeah, original af, I know)
2 WyzeCam Pans, named WYZE-Kitchen and WYZE-LivingRoom
4 WeMo Smart Plugs, named WEMO-Foyer, WEMO-SpareBedroom, WEMO-MasterBedroom, and WEMO-LivingRoom
1 Amazon Echo Plus, named ECHO-LivingRoom
2 Amazon Echoes (First-Generation), named ECHO-MasterBedroom and ECHO-Kitchen
2 Amazon Echo Dots, named DOT-Office, and DOT-SpareBedroom
4 Google Home Minis
1 Brother HL-L2395DW Wireless Laser Printer, named LV426
1 PlayStation 3 Slim 120 GB, named HICKS
I have a total of 31 IP reservations according to my Eero app. This makes it a lot easier to manage my network, set up port forwarding, etc.
When Win10 came out and the direction was clearly "operating system as a service", I decided that it was time to move to Linux but gaming was always the deal breaker.
The solution I've been using now is to run Win10 on one machine and use Steam's In-Home Streaming to play games from any of the Linux machines. It works pretty well as long as the machines use wired networking. The latency is surprisingly good, although to be fair I'm not an FPS gamer or someone who obsesses about that kind of thing. If the network connection slow down, the first noticeable difference seems to be that you get video compression artifacts and not stuttering, which seems like the better of the two.
I haven't tried it out, but there's also something called Parsec that's seems similar to Steam's solution.
If someone decides to try this with In-Home Streaming, the Windows machine doesn't seem to like running completely headless so you might need to plug in a monitor or get a display emulator for < $10. Win10 loves to just update and restart whenever the hell it wants, so I run TightVNC on it and log in remote if Windows does anything that prevents Steam from auto-loading. Remmina on Linux is awesome and supports both VNC and RDP, although you might need to install a plugin, I forget.
Anyway, I don't regret a thing. Linux is honestly a joy to work with, and I'm never going back. I don't mean to get too soap-boxy here, but when a "clean" install of an operating system has animated ads in your start menu, it's time to call bullshit on that company and do whatever you can to move away from them.
If anyone decides to try out Linux, I think Linux Mint Cinnamon is a good starting point; it will be very familiar for people used to running Windows. If you have old hardware, Linux Mint XFCE or Lubuntu are both excellent. Anything Ubuntu-based is widely supported, stable, and relatively easy to dive into.
It took me a while to find the right combination of parts that worked. I work in graphics hardware, so I have access to a bunch of HDMI adapters to try to make it work, but I never had a noise on HDMI. It either worked or was all black.This HDMI repeater worked for me: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/
These are $10 on Amazon too ($15 for 4k). They basically report those resolutions via EDID so the video cards will negotiate to it:
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/
You do NOT need a CRT.
Please stop growing this myth!
For the 9000th time, you can play EASILY with gaming monitors (which you probably already have for your FGC games) on console.
All you do is buy a $30 Wii2HDMI adapter that acts as a passthrough and doesn't add any lag. Sewell is the best brand.
You can also play via emulation on your PC with Ishiiruka/Faster Melee - a fork of the popular Dolphin emulator. This also allows you to play matches online.
The point is: PLEASE STOP saying you NEED a CRT
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485388144&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sewell+hdmi+adapter+wii
Sorry for the yelling lol
Thanks :P
option 1. get a fancy stereo that has HDMI passthough. you plug the CC into the stereo.
option 2. get a fancy doohickey - an hdmi audio extractor
option 3. run an audio cable out of the TV's headphone jack and into your stereo
I've used these before they work great: http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458765735&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+headless
It's inconvenient and potentially lossy enough that I wouldn't use the Korg Gadget Switch version to do anything other than play around with my friends and family. You'd have to play a track while you hit "record" on the device to which you are sending the audio. If I were going to do it, I would go with the HDMI method they mention. You can buy a piece of hardware that will pull the audio off an hdmi signal and send it out. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524750911&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&amp;psc=1
But if you are more interested in producing things you can work with, then even Korg's own Gadget program on iOS is better (and cheaper). If you're on Android like I am, then Caustic 3 or FL Studio is good. The DAW world is your oyster on the desktop. There are many options there.
The value to the Switch version will be the collaboration stuff I guess.
Get a repeater like this if you're having problems.
Hundreds? More like a couple dozen.
HDMI to composite.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522695843&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+rca
Composite to RF
https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522696022&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=rf+modulator
The electrical restoration most of those TVs need to run right, or often at all, is the difficult part.
Regarding 3, just use a Sewell adapter for Wii. It causes basically no lag and is much more affordable (the lag from a "lagless" LED monitor will have more impact than the adapter). Note that it'll still be slower than CRT, but if you have a good enough monitor it shouldn't make a big difference.
Lagless HDMI converters for Wii have existed for a long time.
Here are two tested lagless HDMI adapters meant specifically for the Nintendo Wii:
http://www.neoya.com/wii2hdmi
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/
An HDMI audio extractor might be helpful here. https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
i'm using a monitor too. i bought a J-tech hdmi audio extractor from amazon. plug in the WiiU hdmi to it and use a coax or optical to the sound system.
i've since bought a new receiver with HDMI inputs but this thing worked pretty well.
Not entirely, I think it's a limitation of Windows but you have to actually have something connected. If I ever manage to afford a new VR box, I'm going to try getting a few of these sort of things.
Streaming is really fun, but it can get complex relatively quickly depending on what you want to do. Once you overcome the hurdle of getting everything set up, it's a lot easier.
&nbsp;
Step 1: Establish Scope
The first thing you need to do is establish the scope of what you want to accomplish. Do you simply want to stream the game from a fixed position camera and that be it? Or do you want to include additional elements to the stream? If you are relatively new to videography, it can be easier to simply start small and do a basic stream. For my recommendations, I will assume that you simply want to get a stream up and running, and after that we can talk about what you can do to make the stream more appealing.
&nbsp;
Step 2: Setup Your Streaming Account
Your 2 options are YouTube Gaming or Twitch. While I am sure that there are other options out there, these are the best for what you are trying to accomplish, and I can personally vouch for both platforms. YouTube Gaming is nice because if you have a gmail account, you already have a YouTube account. Twitch is arguably more popular though, and it has the option of directly exporting to YouTube. Both are incredibly easy to setup and work with though. I have used Twitch in my personal life, and I have used YouTube with work. Both are fine, it's just your preference.
&nbsp;
Step 3: Download your Broadcast Software
Open Broadcast Software
Again, there are other options here in this category, but OBS is free, easy, and designed to be used with both YouTube and Twitch.
&nbsp;
Step 4: Test Your Equipment
You will need to plug up your camera, log in to your streaming platform, open your broadcast software, and run a test stream. Doing an effective stream is more than just plugging a camera into a computer and leaving it at that. Depending on the scope of what you want to do, you are probably going to have to purchase some hardware.
Depending on the type of camera you have, you may be able to simply plug it into your computer, turn it on webcam mode (if it has that feature) and start your stream. Not every camera is this straight forward though, and you will need to do some research on what your camera can and can't do. Some cameras will let you connect to a computer and stream directly to that computer. Note that streaming to a computer is different than streaming online. Some cameras only treat a computer as an external hard drive and require some sort of capture device to stream to the machine. We purchased a Magewell USB to HDMI capture device at work and it works very well. It's expensive, but good. You just need to research what your camera can and can't do.
&nbsp;
Step 5: Promote Your Channel
Now that you have set up your channel and tested your equipment to make sure it works, all you have to do is go to your store, stream the game, and get people to watch it. Ask your FLGS if they will give you a direct line to their router. If they will, bring a long ass ethernet cable; you don't really want to stream HD video wirelessly. Also, ask them what their upload speeds are. Obviously you need a connection to the internet, but some stores don't have a great upload speed. You don't want to get there and find out that your stream is garbage because the store only has 2mb up or something like that.
And that's generally it. Create your channel with either YouTube or Twitch, download your broadcast software, and make sure that your equipment works. After you have setup your stream you can start to add things like audio commentary, music, transitions, overlays, or even additional cameras.
&nbsp;
Audio Commentary
To do this, you are going to need a sound mixing board and some microphones if you want to have more than 1 person talking. This is actually not as hard as you would think. There are some relatively inexpensive USB sound boards that you can plug a microphone into. This isn't explicitly necessary, but a good audio commentary separates the poor streams from the better streams. If you can't do this, at least consider some background music.
&nbsp;
Overlays
Find someone with good Photoshop skills and ask them to make you a 16:9 overlay for your stream. You will quickly find that streaming a game of X-Wing is hard to see if you are the viewer, and a good overlay communicates so much information to the viewer. Trinity Squad Gaming have my favorite. Team Covenant are also really good. Most streamers either ignore the overlay completely, or they have a crappy one. Don't be one of those streamers! There are plenty of really good artists on this sub-reddit. Hell, I will make you one if you want. Just let me know.
&nbsp;
Final Thoughts
There is a lot more here that could be discussed. There are other guys here who have expressed interest in helping you get started. Feel free to reach out to any of us.
A dummy plug might be the solution.
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497667545&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dummy+plug
Magewell USB3 HDMI or USB3 SDI cards. You will need 3 of them, obviously, but they work with PCs and Macs with no drivers at all. They show up in the system as a USB webcam.
Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI USB 3.0
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Capture-Video-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491671363&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=magewell&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=A3QYE2I1I6GUQR
^^ this thing is pricey, but excellent. Been using mine for 3 years now. I run hdmi from my gpu to a splitter's hdmi-in, then hdmi-out 1 from the splitter goes to this, hdmi-out 2 from the splitter goes to my monitor. turn vsync on on the gpu and you wont get tearing.
A few of my youtube videos utilizing it:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cthSDu8piiM
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qP5ajII6iO0
if you use a cam, you will want to create udev rules for the cam and the magewell for specific names as they are both detected as v4l2 video devices in OBS, and they also tend to fight over bandwidth until you do this, which can lead to one or the other not loading properly.
https://wiki.archlinux.org/index.php/udev#Writing_udev_rules
My rules setup for my magewell and logitech c920:
sudo nano /etc/udev/rules.d/83-webcam.rules
contents:
KERNEL=="video[0-9]", SUBSYSTEM=="video4linux", SUBSYSTEMS="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="2935", ATTRS{idProduct}=="0001", SYMLINK+="magewell"
KERNEL=="video[0-9]", SUBSYSTEM=="video4linux", SUBSYSTEMS="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="046d", ATTRS{idProduct}=="082d", SYMLINK+="c920"
you'll want to replace the vendor and product ids defined for each above with the ones for your devices. in case yours are different for whatever reason, you can find the vendor and product ids with:
udevadm info -a -p $(udevadm info -q path -n /dev/video2
replace video2 with whichever video device (usually defaults to video0/video1/video2 etc)
after you do this the devices work without fail reliably every time.
I have this cheap one off amazon and it works pretty great. There's tons of reviews of people that use it with retro systems.
Just be warned, this sub and /r/retrogaming are filled with people drinking the framemeister kool aid who will tell you if you don't drop a grand on an upscaler and cables or play on a Sony PVM everything else looks like shit and is unplayable.
I have a sony wega trinitron that I prefer to play games on S-video, but the upscaler I linked definitely does the job if a CRT isn't available.
You could buy an HDMI to composite converter (https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M) they work great. I've probably used a dozen of them for different AV projects.
Use that and some thrift shop bluray player and for a total of $20, you're good to go
You’ll need to remove the head unit and install this harness:
Toyota A/V harness
Then convert the RCA cables to HDMI with these:
RCA to HDMI
HDMI USB extension cable
I have the SB-2840, and I love the sucker. No noticeable lag or noise, and it actually appears to make intelligent sync decisions (preferring Sync-on-Luma, but accepting CSYNC and translating it to Sync-On-Luma seamlessly.) It has audio inputs, so you don't need to deal with an audio breakout cable. It doesn't need to be color adjusted like other popular transcoders.
One gotcha some people have reported is that it power supply included is sometimes not powerful enough. I swapped mine out for a common 12v 1A power brick immediately, so I never experienced this issue.
Using one on my Sony KV-20FS120 and it works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0072JP56G/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1478198903&amp;amp;sr=8-1&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX200_SY289_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=sewell+wii+hdmi&amp;amp;dpPl=1&amp;amp;dpID=118FI5oLlGL&amp;amp;ref=plSrch
This is what I use for a portable setup I made. We use it for tournaments around here and no one can feel any lag. A couple say it even feels faster but I think that's the sharper visuals from my monitor
You couldn't come close to buying the parts required for less than you can get an already made solution.
They are $40.
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=pd_sim_e_2?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=1Q03FZS4CHMQ7KZKC7EF
Something like https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E should work. You'd need to force the Roku's output to PCM only, and it would pull out the L+R audio to feed into the receiver.
You can just get one of these guys for $30, it will extract the audio for you out of the hdmi cable into a 3.5mm port:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Registered-Trademark-Extractor/dp/B00G9FDJNA/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418679514&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter
I have this one myself, I just use a $2 RCA to 3.5mm jack convertor cable in addition to it. That way I could use the optical 5.1 out in the future if I wanted to:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418679514&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter
thats because DVI-I supports analog too, and VGA is analog.
DVI-D is purely digital, which needs an active converter to analog for VGA. eg. https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI-D-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS (no idea if this is actually a good one or not, its just an example here)
edit: also, do you nneed to convert from DVI-D signal to VGA, or VGA to DVI-D? the adapters rarely work in both ways.
edit2: as for latency, I'd assume all conversions introduce a latency of some sort. As for how noticeable it is, I can't say.
I do this very use case... GPU passed through and Steam Streaming to my laptop. The trick, if you want your machine to be headless, is to use an HDMI display emulator.
You could maybe use something like that:http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
I can not remember when you only have 1 user, but with multiple users, you will need to login before you can stream
Still the wrong type; see how the output is on the AV side and the input is on the HDMI side? You'd need the opposite direction; I have one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491758522&amp;sr=8-19&amp;keywords=composite+to+hdmi
and it's awesome; notice the input is on the AV side and output is on the HDMI side.
You have the wrong adapter, that cable is for a different type of component video ( I don't know what it's called but it's for HD ) you wont be able to go from hdmi to RCA without an active adapter because it's digital to analog.
Edit: something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBQZC4M/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?qid=1456947709&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+rca&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Cmau1tgOL&amp;ref=plSrch
Ok I know a lot of people are going to come here and recommend elgato, but please if you do go that understand what you're getting into. The elgato has an audio/video delay that makes the game feed play later than anything else on your stream so if you are streaming with mic then there are times where you might audibly say "I died" and then everyone doesn't actually see you die until a second later. To me I find that really hard to watch, but I do believe there are ways to delay your mic on stream to get around that, just extra work you have to do.
I personally recommend the startech which you can get cheaper from amazon than their actual site. You'll also need 3 HDMI cables and an HDMI splitter so you can have the feed going to the capture card and the monitor/tv you play off.
Edit: Not going to reply to the comments that are talking about input delay and just bold that part showing that I wasn't talking about input delay.
With no word one way or the other, I'd give it about 50:50. There isn't any particular reason to disable it, but the speakers are definitely going to be rerouted out through the HDMI port when docked. If there's only one DAC, then docking probably disables it. This is a total guess, though.
By the way, there are HDMI audio extractors which take your HDMI out and let you send the audio to another device. They're not super cheap, but if your TV doesn't have audio out for some reason then you could use one of those to send to your transmitter.
Try an HDMI repeater if DVI adaptors aren't working. This one works fine for me no visual or audio issues and its 11$.
You should be buying on Amazon or locally so you can return ones that don't work. If you have $200 of cables kicking around that don't work then you should really look at returning them or learn to purchase smarter through retailers you can return things too.
With that being said I had issues with extending my HDMI on a 1080 card and this extender worked like a charm. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GHL72XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519584953&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=COWEEN+HDMI+Repeater+4K+UHD+HDMI+Female+to+Female+HDMI+Amplifier&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Cjp8ODTWL&amp;ref=plSrch
It's not VGA, but I use one of these to convert the Apple II's composite video to HDMI. It works pretty well.
If you get adapters and plug in the NES Classic to a CRT, maybe. I'm assuming you already have the Duck Hunt ROM loaded on the NESC. It won't work on an LCD or (O)LED TV because light guns can only read from a CRT. You'll need a CRT if you wanna make it work.
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Here's some Amazon links:
HDMI to Composite Converter
NES to NES Classic Adapter
A box to pull audio out of the HDMI like this, audio from that goes into your machine as a mic input and tell Windows to "Listen to this device" in the Input Device settings.
No. But if you throw one of these in between the two, you should be OK.
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM
Edit: Make sure your Chromecast is powered by its own power supply, not the projector (USB/MHL)
Sorry for pic quality! There's a light in the way XD. I used a 10ft cable extension, command strip hooks, zip ties, and a dog leash to make my Oculus cord retractable!
Purchased items(US):
Total: ~40$
My mobile setup is as follows:
MSI GT73VR- nvidia 1070 – Samsung 960 pro’s – 32 gigabyte memory – processor under volted using Throttle top 850 to reduce heat.
Laptop stand for airflow-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VIZ60QY/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Powered USB-c hub-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013P0JU66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Display port to HDMI adapter (saves wear/tear on HDMI port) -
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJ3LSIG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Extension cables 15' headset and 3rd sensor-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Active HDMI repeater for headset-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
Facial replacement-
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=s9_acsd_hps_bw_c_x_1_w
Some items picked up over time. While at times I think a tower system would be great…. This allows me the flexibility to setup at other locations in / outside the home and still have normal laptop while not in VR.
iArkPower HDMI Audio Extractor... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9JG70A?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Get one of these converters (or a similar one), hook it up to a HDMI output on a PC and the RCA input of a VHS recorder. Downscale the video to whatever resolution you want using some video editor, and then just play it fullscreen on the PC while recording on the VHS.
Agreed with the other comments, don't try to open it unless you really know what you're doing.
Get an RF modulator, which will take any baseband video signal and move it to VHF channel 3 or 4. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014KKV7W/?tag=synack-20
If you need HDMI, you can get an analog converter that will plug into the RF modulator.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/?tag=synack-20
I run a RaspberryPi through an RF modulator to a very similar Samsung TV. I have a script running on the RaspberryPi that picks random video files from a directory and plays them with omxplayer. Currently, it's a 24x7 Looney Tunes and Futurama mix.
If you don't mind dropping a few bux, a scanline converter/emulator is the way to go. There is one called the 'Framemeister', but it is a Japan import and seems to run around $500 if you are in the US.
There are cheaper options, a quick search on amazon yielded this guy which seems to have decent reviews, and is about 1/10th of the price.
EDIT: I was assuming that your TV didn't already have a composite input. If it does, and you are satisfied with the quality then it should just work. I am partial to the CRT 'feel' (nostalgia) so if I ever ditch my CRT monitor I would have to get one of these.
Here are a couple of more resources where you can read up on RGB capturing:
https://blz.la/rgb/
http://retrorgb.com/
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
During ESA2014 we used a couple of different scalers. Initially we wanted to used several XRGB minis, but that plan fell through. So we used these in combination:
CM-393 (also known as Centaur Pro): A SCART to HDMI scaler. Will only work with NTSC consoles. In the case where we wanted to catpure PAL sources, we had to run the video signal through a DVD-recorder to conform the signal to proper PAL. PAL60 will also have to go through a DVD-recorder. For that purpose we had several KiSS DP-558 units available.
We also used Cypress CP-255i: A more high-end scaler, basically plug and play. But does not have an input for SCART. For those cases we had Sync Strikes. Or SCART (RGB) to YUV converters. http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
Seriously, those RGB to YUV have saved our asses more than once. It's a great utility. Works just fine for hooking up your retro consoles to a PVM or a TV with only component inputs. (Assuming it accepts 240p).
As for the future. We opted for a solution which would allow us to stick to one scaler. We went for the Extron DVS-304. This model has been discontinued but can be found in Ebay. This little beauty accepts anything analog. And you should be able to score one for less than 100$.
Since you can get scaled RGBHV output, it's very easy to replicate the output to any source. Which might not be very helpful for personal streaming, but it is godlike for marathons.
There is still a model in production Extron DVS-304 DVI.
tl;dr: There's no easy solution. But SCART (RGB) is nothing more than Red + Green + Blue + Sync.
This, but if you go with a Wii2HDMI, make sure it's one of the ones that doesn't upscale to 1080p. The Sewell one is a safe bet.
This is a several piece system you'd have to get.
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First is an HDMI audio extractor then an BT transmitter and if you want to be able to switch between the Roku and the TV tuner you'd then need an HDMI switch.
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At that point with all that in place, you honestly would be better off getting a receiver. You can get a cheap receiver, like the Denon S530BT from Accessories4less.com for $150 then pair that with some cheap speakers and you're already better than all that equipment above.
I have my Switch, 360, and ps3 hooked up to my monitor using an HDMI switch, and an Audio Extractor. This works super seamlessly, I just turn on whatever console I like and the Hdmi switches and I am able to get digital audio out automatically. I use a headset mainly, one of my friends have a logitech z213 speakers and they sound pretty nice! Hope that helps!
If the DRM requires the hardware, eventually I bet someone will make USB and HDMI dongles to emulate the Oculus Rift being plugged in. (Like extra monitor dongles http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6)
Maybe - Hopefully you can do it with software. You've done amazing work so far. Thank you.
you need something like this:
https://www.amazon.ca/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Its the first link I got from google so you can find cheaper dongles.
You can after that install a plex server to serve videos/photos/music to the other devices in your household.
You can do it yourself with one of these type devices. Just hook it up to your pc and then plug the output into the input on a vcr. Put in a fresh vhs. Play a dvd/bluray/media file on your pc and press record on the vcr. Now you have a vhs copy of something that was never supposed to exist on vhs. I can't really say if that model converter is any good or not as I haven't tried it, I just linked it as an example of the type of device you'd need to convert modern films to vhs. Just make sure that whatever one you get converts the audio as well or your tapes will be silent. I figured out how to do this so I could make a vhs copy of the movie Worm for a friend whose a vhs junkie because it's his favorite movie and it never got an actual release. For the case I bought a vhs copy of toy story for a buck and switched out the graphic insert for a custom made one.
Get this, and this, along with some basic a/v cables, and you should be set.
What we use at SG
I swear by it. Incredible little card. There's a USB 3.0 version you can use if you only have a laptop to work with.
As for editing software, Adobe Premier and Sony Vegas are fantastic pieces of software, though they may take a little effort to learn.
EDIT: I should note that due to the StarTech cards lacking any sort of pass-through, you'll need a powered splitter if you want lagless output to both your stream TV and the card itself. This is what we use
If I'm reading correct, it sounds like you may have a PS4 Slim that doesn't have an optical port. To get surround sound in your headset, you'll need to hook up via optical. You can work around the lack of optical port by using an HDMI/TOSLink splitter like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/
Make sure to verify that both HDMI and TOSLink output in the adapter supports the audio and video settings that you require for your particular setup.
It seems not all dvi to hdmi adapters will work, the cable matters works for some people at least. There is also the cable matter display port to hdmi adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K0UDYLM
You can also try use a HDMI repeater instead of extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/
I personally just use the AmazonBasics hdmi on gtx780ti and usb extension connect to the Inateck Superspeed 4 Ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B6ZCNGM
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01D5H91KE
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NH12O5I
I'm pretty sure the limit on virtual monitors is how many physical monitors that you have physically connected to your video card.
If you go headless for some or all the monitors, you will need a monitor emulator. Like this for HDMI and obviously a different hardware emulator for DVI.
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Your virtual monitors would be limited to how many actual video ports you have on your video card with headless emulators plugged into the ports or actual physical monitors plugged in.
That's quite an interesting setup.
You need one of these bad boys: https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Or, what if I flashed the EDID for this device, started the program while it was in, and then hot-swapped to the DIY Rift?
When your monitor is off it's probably telling the OS, "Hey I'm not here" The GPU then has nothing to render to and is probably falling back to software rendering causing the FPS drops.
I think there are some adapters you can plug in to spoof an active monitor. https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
EDIT: Found some more info here. https://steamcommunity.com/app/353380/discussions/0/483368526585691821/ Pretty much backs up my assumption. GPU sees "no monitor" when it's off and thus doesn't render properly.
Define "isn't expensive".
The only HDMI capture card I recommend for use with OBS for Mac is the Magewell XI100DUSB-HDMI, and it's about $300. There is literally no other HDMI capture card I feel comfortable suggesting you use other than this one.
Similarly to /u/ZeroShift I ordered a ViewHD, went with the 4k version because I didn't need audio separation, just something to remove hdcp for my magewell capture device.
/u/Forever_Irritated - with a $1500 budget, I recommend the [$1295 JVC GY-HM170UA bundle with the top handle, XLR mic inputs and free XLR mic] (https://www.amazon.com/JVC-GY-HM170-Professional-Camcorder-Integrated/dp/B01G7YVSBW/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=battleforthew-20).
This is an Ultra High Definition "4K" 2160p camera with a 12x power zoom lens, pro mic inputs, dual card slots, and 50mbps 8-bit 4:2:2 output.
You would also need a [$299 Magewell HDMI to USB dongle] (https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-USB-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;linkCode=ll1&amp;tag=battleforthew-20) for streaming.
Here is the image quality this camera can produce in indoor settings:
Here it is at 4K resolution outdoors (please set YouTube to 2160p and watch at your monitor's highest resolution):
At $1295, this camera is a very good value for your money.
Hope this is helpful and Godspeed!
No. You'd need a HDMI capable capture card, such as this. I can't make a recommendation for any specific product however.
You would need an HDMI to USB capture device. Something like this;
https://www.amazon.com/d/Internal-TV-Tuner-Capture-Cards/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/B00I16VQOY
Just buy a BT controller for the surface and load an emulator. Easier, and personally I'd say you're in the clear morally if you just stick to the games you own.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ
I use this for my n64, it's a bit pricey but I tried a generic inexpensive one and the image quality was garbage, this thing puts out a beautiful image!
Mini Composite RCA CVBS AV To HDMI Converter (Input: AV; Output: HDMI) For VCR DVD 720P 1080P With High-Speed HDMI Cable (6.5 Feet / 2 Meter) enKo Products - Not for Windows 10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I482KZI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_II89wb5VT2H5D
Then ignore GCVideo unless you feel like spending the cash for a new 'Cube.
Any old RCA>HDMI box is going to get you to about the same place and I'm going to assume that your TV doesn't support S-Video.
Anything like this should get you started if you just want to play:
https://www.amazon.com/enKo-Products-Composite-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
And if you want a better experience, consider something like these in tandem:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B078JCNDC8/ref=sspa_mw_detail_4?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/Gam3Gear-Nintendo-Gamecube-Video-Cable-Super/dp/B00LE3EAIK
No. The thing you listed only converts an analog signal to an HDMI output. You need something that works the other way. Like this.
Tendak 1080P HDMI to AV 3RCA CVBs Composite Video Audio Converter Adapter
One of these
You should look into the Startech cards. They have made a few clones of Micomsoft cards (including the PEXHDCAP60L, a clone of the SC-512N1) that are significantly cheaper, however they don't have any video passthrough so you have to split the signal before the card. I own the Elgato Game Capture HD as well as the Startech USB3HDCAP (a clone of the Micomsoft XCAPTURE-1) and they both capture 240p/480i fairly well although the USB3HDCAP has better image quality because it doesn't do any hardware compression to the video. I use a YPbPr Distribution Amplifier made by Radioshack to split the video signal before the capture card and there are DAs for pretty much any connector you can think of.
Startech PEXHDCAP60L: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00U8KSSRY
Startech USB3HDCAP: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5HUA6/
There are some issues with the current drivers for the USB3HDCAP but TheThrillness on shmups made a specific set of drivers from the XCAPTURE-1 drivers that fix those issues. Check out his review here: https://thethrillness.blogspot.com/2015/01/startech-usb3hdcap-review.html
Such devices exist, but aren’t that cheap and tend to introduce too much latency for gaming. If you want to watch the steam live, you may need even better hardware to keep up with playing the video and transcoding the input in real time.
For example: StarTech.com HDMI Video Capture Device - 1080p - 60fps Game Capture Card - USB Video Recorder with HDMI DVI VGA (USB3HDCAP) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5HUA6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gO5hDbQZ13G3R (this was the first hit I found on google. I have no idea if it’s actually a good product or not.)
Unfortunately many TV,s will downgrade a signal and output only 2.0 over the optical. I have 3 TVs. Insignia, Samsung and Panasonic. The insignia and samsung can output a 5.1 signal over the optical out, while the Panasonic will downgrade it to a 2.0 only. Pretty annoying. You can use a device like this to capture the 5.1 audio from the HDMI input and create an optical.
Infact that is the device I use with my PS4 slim, because it only has an HDMI out and I needed an optical out and my TV cant be used.
I haven't personally used one before, but it sounds like you'll need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6SDtzbQB43B0W
There's probably cheaper.
Buy this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=tendak&amp;qid=1551123881&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-1
Plug your Switch into the HDMI in on it, take the HDMI out, plug into your tv, stereo mini out to a set of speakers.
The original PS4 and the PS4 Pro have optical out, so if you computer speaker system has optical in, you could do that.
There are also adapters that take in the HDMI signal, and then separate sound and video, so video goes through hdmi and sound via a 3.5mm jack.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491493187&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+3.5
Since I'm using a tv, I was able to plug in the optical cable to the back of my tv. You'd need one of these since you're using a monitor.
If you are just extending 6feet, this works fine.
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https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1549775331&sr=8-2&keywords=hdmi+repeater
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Not all HDMI sockets on GPU's are created equal. Looks like the Strix was delivering enough voltage down the extensions whereas the MSI isn't. You likely just need to buy a 4K Compatible HDMI Repeater. The recommended one is THIS ONE Sells on US/UK/DE Amazon under different brand names but if it looks like the one linked its likely the correct one.
OP try using this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GHL72XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523574427&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=HDMI+repeater&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Cjp8ODTWL&amp;ref=plSrch
The issue might be coming from the fact that your particular graphics card isn't outputting enough power through the HDMI port and the length of the cable is causing too much resistance for a solid signal.
If the answer is yes then you need an HDMI signal booster. Everyone i have seen is using this one. No latency and fixes the problem. Sold under different brands but all are the same thing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GHL72XS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498902984&amp;sr=8-5&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+booster&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Cjp8ODTWL&amp;ref=plSrch
This works flawlessly for me. You'll need the adapter I linked as well
HDMI
USB
Adapter
This is the one that I bought: HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, One HDMI Input, One HDMI Output + Optical SPDIF Digital and RCA L/R Analog Audio Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_-KQOybP61NR4R
I just plug hdmi into box and hdmi from box into tv. Then use the optical cable and put it in my receiver and I get great surround sound!
If you just need to cast audio to a stereo, it is fine. you will need to use something like this to extract the audio.
At this price point, you may consider a bluetooth to audio dongle or a Chromecast audio, depending of your needs. To me the ability to make a multi-room system with the chromecast audio is essential.
Instead of a new screen, you can use something like that :
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I9JG70A/ref=mp_s_a_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1506434425&amp;sr=8-14&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio
(HDMI splitter with different audio outputs)
You don't need anything fancy. A cheaper analog camera plugged into a Composite-to-HDMI or Composite-toVGA adapter plugged into a monitor will give you want you want for < $100, monitor not included.
BUT - I think you will be happier, long-term, if you do keep a few days' worth of video, just in case there's an issue about something. Sometimes being able to prove something didn't happen is as important as proving what did happen. (e.g., the person who's supposed to be watching the door/monitor goes away for 5 mins to use the toilet. wouldn't it be nice to have a record of what, if anything, happened during those 5 mins?)
But, for what you're asking for:
Camera https://www.amazon.com/NYXCAM-Security-Surveillance-Weatherproof-Monitoring/dp/B078H83RHV/
Power supply https://www.amazon.com/ABLEGRID-Supply-Adapter-Security-Camera/dp/B015PWVUSS/
Hybrid power/video cable https://www.amazon.com/Swann-100ft-Surveillance-Security-Cameras/dp/B0104X85X6/
Or, use CAT 5 and a set of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCGZ3H5/
BNC/RCA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/VCE-5-PACK-Plated-Female-Adapter/dp/B01N20F61M/
and you should be able to plug into a TV/monitor that accepts composite video (typically a single yellow RCA plug/jack) - or if you want to output to HDMI, one of these https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ + a USB power source.
I haven't personally used those products, I've gone down the IP camera rabbit hole; but if you wanted to do something simple & cheap for < $100, that's how I'd do it.
Picked this up. Worked perfect for what we wanted. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AZxWAbXD9T24M
HDMI -> RCA converter box, like this.
Get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3nh-BbA3Z0W5G
Or if you want to keep HDMI to the TV then get a cheap HDMI splitter into one of the boxes above to put out L/R audio.
There are other boxes that will do optical too if that's what you fancy.
HDMI Audio Extractor
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/
No, that's how the N64 has always looked :( You can dump money into building an RGB amp, finding a quality compatible CRT, and hooking it up with the best possible connection and it'll still (generally) look like shit (but with more vibrant colors!).
The upscaling on the PS3 for PS1 games isn't the best, but it's great for the price (free).
Honestly though, just stick with your current set as long as it's decent for modern games. If you want to save some space and time, instead of trying to track down a bulky ass CRT, pick up something like this. If money is not a problem, then get one of these.
I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NS0UUQ with my SNES and N64 and it works great.
I use this one: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0064JIC9M with my Wii and it works great too.
My guess is that the box you have only outputs progressive, which your CRT probably doesn't support. I agree that I would expect this to work on a modern tv that supports 480p.
If you want it to work on CRT, something like this will probably work.
http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462974027&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=scart+to+component
The SNES does not and will never produce a component signal. It is capable of producing RGB (in all models save the Mini, which requires modding) with CSYNC (in all board revisions save 1CHIP-03, which requires modding), as well as Composite, out of the box.
Solutions for getting Component from an SNES are based on converting an RGB signal to YPbPr (i.e., Component), which is non-trivial, but much easier and cheaper than analogue to digital conversion. This is what HD Retrovision's cables/converters do, and this is what any other SCART to Component converter such as this one does.
Consequently, purchasing an SNES SCART cable and SCART to Component converter is one option (and is equivalent in function to the HD Retrovision cable).
One major caveat, however, is that 240p over Component is not a standards-compliant signal. So it's a bit of a crapshoot whether a screen will actually process it. Adding a line-doubler would fix this, but somewhat defeats the purpose of this more economical approach.
PVMs/BVMs with BNC inputs can utilise 240p RGB directly (with nothing more than a passive SCART->BNC adapter). But consumer CRTs in North America simply didn't support RGB during the analogue era.
Yep you can do exactly what your describing using a SCART to Component adapter
A lot of people use this one
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO
I've hear it's okay and does the job pretty good for the price
Just keep in mind this is not an upscaler so it will only work the way you describe and probably won't let you hook it up to an HDTV that doesn't accept 480i/240p
Edit: as said below this would be a much better option for not much more in price http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?products_id=220
Yeah you can't put a PCIe card into a laptop. Like the other person said you should look into upgrading your computer.
However there are VGA to HDMI adapters... https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
But your laptop probably can't output full 1080p HD. Sounds like it can only do 720p.
Also many TVs have VGA input. Make sure you have to use HDMI.
But you could probably find a used $150 laptop with HDMI and much more capable. Or for about $250 you can probably get an i3 laptop. $400-500? You might be able to get a more modern i5 with a SSD drive.
The LGP has a random blackout issue. You'll be playing and then all of a sudden, BAM, blackout for 1 or 2 seconds. It's very sensitive to voltage when being used with the Component input, so much so that even plugging in controllers can cause it to black out sometimes.
We have been working on a solution, but as of right now this is a good solution, but has no recording capabilities, although you could get the LGP and this and just record over HDMI where there's no chance of blackout (that's what I do): http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398017066&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=sewell+wii2hdmi+480p.
The Elgato Game Capture HD has been rumored to be just as fast as the LGP when it comes to conversion as well as will let you record, but Fizzi hasn't pulled any real numbers on it yet as far as I know.
With either of these options, you need the right monitor as well if you are going for a HD lagless setup. Both the BenQ RL2455HM and the Evo monitor are tried and true for our purposes, but many other gaming monitors could work depending on their quality.
This seems like a tremendous investment to do something you can already do with a wii, a low latency monitor, and a good hdmi adapter.
I'm not against console modding at all (I do and enjoy it myself from time to time) but you can already build a setup like this with negligible lag without any heavy modifications to existing hardware.
For practical and tournament use, everyone plays on a 60hz CRT. I'm sure some CRT's can break that number, but there's no point playing on those since those aren't the standard and never will be. It's honestly best for the community to start to adopt to A gaming monitor -> Wii -> wii2hdmi adapter -> hdmi cable. That way we can move to monitors like every other competitive game, while incurring essentially no additional input lag(~2ms). Something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493707468&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=sewell+wii+hdmi) can be connected any modern monitor, and allow Melee to be played offline on a monitor even without Dolphin.
@Zankoku
> 2014-05-22 18:01 UTC
> For those who want to play #SSBM on an HD gaming monitor, your best option by far is Sewell Wii to HDMI http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/
----
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You need to output the Wii in 480p (Progressive Scan) mode to get recordings in 60fps. This isn't possible with a Composite Cable. Your options for this are:
A. Component Cable For Wii
B. Sewell HDMI Converter for Wii
The HDMI converter is essentially lagless (less than 1 frame) and allows you to output in 480p. I know many players who use this, and even bring their low-lag monitors + this adapter to tournaments.
If you want to get HDMI out of a Wii, a Wii2HDMI converter will probably perform better than any generic Composite to HDMI converter you're likely to find.
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/
If he absolutely refuses to play on anything else, even if you'll provide a CRT, then I'd recommend getting something like the Sewell HDMI converter.
It won't make everything perfect but it should help with a fair amount of the lag. That said the TV probably still has display lag and will have to upscale the image, but it helps a lot with the lag from digital analogue conversion.
any roku with rca jacks should work on an older tv.
if you only have hdmi roku, you can buy a converter
https://www.amazon.com//dp/B009A6PJKQ
i highly recommend you retire your old tv
because they are VERY energy inefficient.
my 10yo 720p uses as much electricity as
my refrigerator!
the weeks leading up to the super bowl
feb 5th are the best hdtv sales all year.
I'm guessing something like this would make it work: http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-1080P/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1397108610&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=rca+to+hdmi
I happen to have an RCA Audio Out port on my TV that I pass directly to headphones. Everything is wired and I just calibrate to that.
If you don't have those, you might want to look into an HDMI Audio Extractor. I know it's not exactly a software fix with your current setup, but shouldn't be too pricey to get working.
How about a HDMI audio extractor? That way it stays digital until it gets to the Sonos DAC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jD4eAbDD15YSG
The thing you're looking for is called an HDMI audio extractor. This one extracts the audio to optical 5.1 or RCA stereo.
I used an hdmi audio extractor to do what you're asking for a while. It worked great. You can even get an hdmi switch with audio extraction if you have more than one console.
Switch/consoles to the hdmi switch/extractor inputs, output to monitor, audio output to speakers.
you could use an hdmi audio extractor to extract the 5.1 and send it via an optical TOSLINK cable that your receiver supports: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
Yep here is what you need:
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1421170441&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+toslink&amp;pebp=1421170442563&amp;peasin=B00BIQER0E.
Alternatively, you can use the audio output from your tv if your tv has one. However that requires that you keep your tv on when listening to just music.
Has anyone considered getting a regular Chromecast instead of a Chromecast Audio and using one of these HDMI Audio Extractors (https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E) to cast just the audio?
You'll probably have to just pair a spider with an active adapter. Yes a passive adapter won't work, but active should.
something like: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
teamviewer
I think the resolution issue isn't related to the software you use though. You probably need an hdmi display emulator. Something like this
I have one on each of my rigs. Without it, it will either not even display anything when I remote into them or the resolution would be tiny and unchangeable.
I guess have to plug in display emulator? [like this] (https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511887556&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=headless+hdmi)
VD uses the GPU to render the screens.
The GPU will only render a screen if its really connected.
Like on my case, I have monitor 1 hooked to my Nvidia card and monitor 2 to my intel hd graphics.
VD will work only with one of the displays because VD can use only one GPU at a time...
Now, to solve this you can use a ghost adapter.
http://www.overclock.net/t/384733/the-30-second-dummy-plug
Thats a like to an HOWTO for making one at home using some simple things.
Links to buy:
https://eshop.macsales.com/item/NewerTech/ADP4KHEAD/
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1462569828&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=headless+display
I am using this but am looking for something better. I plan on going S-Video so possibly this but I would rather not have to press a button to switch between Composite and S-Video. For the Wii I use this and for the PS2 I use this. For the PS2 you have to trim the USB cable to be able to use it vertical. For the Xbox there is no solution so I use this
Are you talking about something like this? S-Video to HDMI
There are adapters out there, but in my opinion it wouldn't be worth it since they cost as much as a new Roku with HDMI ~$50 USD.
For example
You'll get the best picture with a s-video cable (unless you're willing to do the RGB mod). Cheap ones are about $5-10. If your TV will accept svid directly (unlikely though given that it's new) then do that, else, you should get an upscaler to convert the signal to HD and allow you to plug-in HDMI.
Here ya go, this might help with how it should be setup. (By should, this is how mine is setup and always works.)
Rough Setup
If you are looking for composite/component like old retro consoles, the setup is slightly different. If you don't want to deal with another piece of hardware, you can get a Elgato Game Capture HD or a Roxio GameCap HD Pro. Both have the ability to use older signals.
If you want to keep everything HDMI, you can snag an AV to HDMI 1080p scaler/convertor. This is the one I have. There are LARGE inherent differences between using a box to convert it to HDMI rather than use the cleanest of signals (which isn't that clean to begin with) when it comes to AV cables. Using a box like the Portta is very convenient. But essentially, with the setup you'll go console to Portta to splitter to capture box to PC.
You've got a couple of options with older consoles with the Elgato card. You can either get an HDMI converter box like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Composite-S-video-Audio-HDMI-Converter/dp/B003NS0UUQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1381089076&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=rca+to+hdmi
Or Elgato has an adapter cable you can get:
http://support.elgato.com/index.php?_m=knowledgebase&amp;_a=viewarticle&amp;kbarticleid=4633
I have both, and they both do a pretty good job.
Absolutely, svideo is worlds better. Especially for capture.
RGB is the next level, it has potential to be as clear and noise free as a modern HD signal. You can get the cables on ebay or wherever for about $20. However nothing really uses that plug, so you have to use an upscaler or converter. The nice ones are $$$ (like 200 and up), but you can get cheap ones that work pretty well. I've used this exact setup with my modded N64 (modded to use RGB with snes cables). [retrogamingcables] (https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/super-nintendo-entertainment-system-famicom-snes-n64-rgb-av-scart-cable-ntsc-tv-lead-wire-cord?tracking=5543fb4c077bb) and [component box amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO). I found the converter box for $35 on ebay. So all in was just over $50, and the quality was like a 10x jump.
There's plenty of other options too, that's just the first setup i messed with and i was perfectly happy with it.
RGB is a different signal than component(YPbPr). You will need a SCART to component transcoder or a SCART to HDMI converter to get the signal to your capture card. The PVM won't convert the signal for you, it will only pass the signal.
I've looked into this, somewhat in-depth.
The trick, as you know, is to get an RGB signal out of the console. Most of the old consoles (and some of the newer ones) can do this -- again, as you know.
You don't need a scaler, per se, if your TV supports 240P mode over component video. You just need a SCART to YPbPr component adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
The above is a link to one that used to exist, and indeed did exist the last time I thought about this seriously (6 or 8 months ago).
You can test 240P YPbPr compatibility using a Wii connected with component video, and pretty much any of the old, official emulated titles (NES Zelda, Mario, etc): Set the Wii for 480i (no, not 480p!), and see how the picture looks.
On my old Samsung A550 LCD, 480i/240p from the Wii looks nice and square and blocky and digital -- it recognizes this mode as being an old gaming system, and gets the hell out of the way.
If anything, it's too perfect -- it's completely devoid of any of the ugly NTSC problems that old consoles have, and sharp as a tack.
480p is irrevocably blurry on the same games with the same TV, because the TV is left trying to do fancy-pants scaling as would be useful for video (as it doesn't know any better).
There may be a path from SCART to VGA, but if it is 240p that you desire (and I think it is), you might find that the VGA input can't hack that particular resolution at NTSC-ish refresh rates.
This is the one I grabbed a few months ago:
http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
Strangely, it's been out of stock at Amazon, but you should be able to find them on eBay no problem. This seems to be their official eBay page for it:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-SCART-RGB-to-YUV-Component-Video-Converter-Scaler-/221156873851
This one
Before everyone points you to ebay please read up on http://www.retrorgb.com, it has a slew of great info. I purchase all my cables through http://www.retrogamingcables.com, make sure you choose the model 2 genesis to rgb scart cable with c-sync on the cable. Its a free option when you go to purchase the cable. This is the converter I use, http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO . Like many have said on the reviews I had to pop the lid off and adjust the color with the caps. Mine came with to much green, its as simple as find a small screw driver and turning until you get the desired picture.
I've used this one for a couple year now. Works really well. Just needed to open it and adjust the colors a bit with a Philips head screwdriver.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6It's analog to digital, requires a conversion.https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Active-Adapter-Support/dp/B008O7RH5C
You'll need an active adapter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
That is true (just be careful if it is to something like HDMI, be sure it's not just a cable with a vga on one end and HDMI on the other, there should be a small box which has 1 cable going out on each end).
Something like this http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
SYBA Universal VGA to HDMI Converter with Audio Support, Adapter for PC, Laptop, DVD, Desktop, SY-ADA31025 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FILNV6
Then you just need an HDMI cable.
$25 worth of easy
http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Convertor-support-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1417977768&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=vga+hdmi+converter
Thank you! I do have Prime Now and found this
https://primenow.amazon.com/dp/B006FILNV6?m=A2PF8A4AASD08R&amp;qid=1478460196&amp;sr=1-5&amp;ref_=pn_sr_sg_5_img_A2PF8A4AASD08R
It says VGA to HDMI. Would it work both ways? Or would the HDMI be output only on that?
In that case, there is something like this...
http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Portable-Converter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
or
http://www.amazon.com/HDE-Audio-1080p-Converter-Adapter/dp/B009L4X3ZA
or
http://www.amazon.com/New-Wayzon-Compact-Converter-Adapter/dp/B00K3OP77Y
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/
Like I said it does over-gamma the signal a bit. An alternative also tested as lagless is this C&E component to HDMI. It doesn't over gamma the signal, but requires you have the wii component cables. It has bad reviews but supposedly works and most of the reviews seem like they are from people who know nothing about technology.
http://www.amazon.com/Component-YPbPr-HDMI-converter-v1-3/dp/B009EA7ZUA/ref=pd_sim_e_6?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0T1V0ZSVWX803ABT728C
It's this Sewell Wii HDMI adapter
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_ep_dp_ZyQAybHF5245D
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G
This is a proven source for good ones. Melee community recommends it but, it's pretty pricey.
While we don’t have a really good quality HDMI plug-and-play solution like how the GameCube has the GCHD, HDMyCube, etc; this is currently the “best” hdmi solution under $100.
Sewell Wii to HDMI Converter, Low Latency, 480p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_TcD1CbY48RP96
I use a Wii with a Sewell low-latency Wii to HDMI adapter that outputs a 480p feed to my BenQ 1080p monitor. The progressive scan makes a huge quality difference for sure. From what I understand it's a YPbPr component to RGB/HDMI converter, on top of the analog to digital conversion that it handles.
I do not emulate as emulators are currently not allowed on the leaderboards.
Here's the (sadly out of stock) link. That's the exact one I bought and it's amazing even on my ~2ms ASUS monitor.
So close.
If you paid attention, you'd notice that product takes in HDMI and puts out RCA.
This one, on the other hand, does the opposite. It converts an RCA input to an HDMI output. This can then be connected to the HDMI input on the screen.
>Would an adapter like this[1] work?
That seems to be a HDMI -> RCA which would be the opposite of what you want
Here's one that's by the same company (I would assume) from the one you posted:
http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-HDMI2RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1409873584&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=RCA+to+HDMI
EDIT: I'd also like to add that I have no idea if any of these work
If you have HDMI only, you can use this composite & audio to HDMI converter/upscaler.
If the channels are analog, you might as well use composite. You could probably find a used VCR to use as an analog tuner pretty cheap. If you must use an HDMI input, you could use something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ to convert the composite to HDMI.
I would suggest using a strong glue, duct tape, or a AV to HDMI converter.
A converter like this would work, but I wouldn't expect the picture to be godlike:
http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-HDMI2RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1419053295&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=av+to+hdmi
Or you can always use a capture card like a dazzle and play through amarec or another capture software, but there's a little bit of delay.
Ah, you are correct. It looks identical to the one that goes the other way: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A6PJKQ
And looking up the "right" one, I see dozens of listings for identical models by "different" companies - probably all made by the same Chinese OEM as the one I have.
This seems to be what you're looking for, in combination with what walrus4lyfe posted. I haven't used the RCA to HDMI converter though, but it seems to have decent reviews on Amazon.
Hmm, if only they made devices that converted Composite to HDMI...
If the goal is to just get video and sound output to his TV, couldn't he buy the much cheaper composite to HDMI converter that most people seem to recommend, which is pretty cheap?
Tmvel Composite Video Converter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009A6PJKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I had this problem on my LG. The manager at my local used video game store told me this is a very common problem with all HD tvs, but you wouldn't know it from google searches or this subreddit. My solution was to buy this HDMI convertor on amazon. It worked after that.
Get an audio extractor, if youll be playing on a monitor.
To be fair you probably don't need to get a TV. If your monitor has an HDMI port, then you could play your PS4 with it. If the monitor doesn't have speakers, you could use an HDMI audio extractor or just use a USB headset. Pretty sure the PS4 supports Bluetooth audio too.
Man, this is not an optimal setup. That AV receiver is really obsolete and the TV is not much better. Ok so HDMI to DVI actually doesn’t lose any video quality, essentially they’re same signal with a different plug and no audio. The 3.5mm jack is 2ch analog (red/white RCA plugs), not 5.1ch digital. The best way (only maybe) to do this is to get a box called an ‘HDMI audio extractor’ to pull the digital audio out of the hdmi cable on the way to the DVI port and feed it to either a digital coaxial (orange RCA plug) or SPDIF optical cable (the squarish flap usually next to the orange RCA plug).
Heres an example.
I noticed that SPDIF optical is far more common so that’s probably the cable you’ll have to use. This will give you the typical 5.1 digital surround you’re looking for.
Theres cheaper boxes, reviews are less favorable. Just remember the hdmi cables might be directional.
J-Tech Digital ® Premium Quality 1080P HDMI To HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter (Support Apple TV 4 Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_3SYzxbQ2YD10K
I don't know if this helps you at all but it might help to share what I'm doing to see another approach. It's messy but works really well.
I do the main volume control on the MiniDSP but added 12dB passive attenuators to bring the 2vrms MiniDSP output to my amp's sensitivity level which in theory will counter any low level resolution problems. I couldn't tell you if it does though.
I don't really need to use the TV's Toslink output since I removed the Chromecast 2.0 from the equation.
The XBox and Shield have settings for stereo output and handle the downmixing. HDMI only carries video for these two.
You probably already know about them but HDMI audio extractors like this one typically have a downmix switch.
no idea what cables you are using as sizes do not help ;)
1/4" = RCA separate leads for L R ? 1/8" = 3.5mm headphone?
one option is to extract audio from hdmi
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395607346&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extract
taking audio from optical is also fine, I just assumed the speakers where next to the monitor so having audio from the monitor lead would be tidy.
optical to RCA is much cheaper if your happy to run the extra leads
http://www.amazon.com/SANOXY%C2%AE-AGPtek-Digital-Optical-Converter/dp/B005DIRI6I/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1395607711&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=optical+to+rca
What are you feeding the audio into?
There are some work-arounds for a lack of audio-out on the project, like an HDMI audio extractor such as this: http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
Just kidding! Looks like I didn't do my research. Here is a $35 box which will split an hdmi signal to hdmi+audio. One more question though, do you see any additional ports on the tv? Some alternative boxes support optical audio.
> you'd get by just fine with an smsl amp for less than 100, especially since you're only gonna use 2 speakers
Disclaimer: Have not personally used a Chromecast.
OP mentioned their TV has no audio output. If I understand correctly, the Chromecast only has an HDMI output. So there'd be no way to get the audio to the SMSL amp.
An HDMI audio extractor might work. OP could go Chromecast-->HDMIExtractor-->TV. I've never used one, but they exist. I'm slightly unsure how well it would work. My experience is that once you start chaining weirdo HDMI shit you can run into audio sync issues sometimes.
> Does every monitor have an audio output
Very few monitors I've seen have a dedicated audio out jack
> since monitors don't have speakers
Some monitors do have speakers
> if it doesn't [have audio out or speakers] then I can't listen to the audio?
Right. I'm in a similar situation. Neither of my monitors have speakers or audio out. I got this adapter which splits Hdmi into Hdmi+audio.
(My PS4 and PC feed HDMI into an HDMI switch, then the switch goes into the adapter, which then goes to my main monitor)
Yeah, I'm sure that would work great, but it looks a bit overkill for my current setup. Anything that's a 5.1 receiver is probably gonna be pricey and I'll want nice speakers to go with them too.
Think I'm just gonna try one of the cheapo hdmi extractors u can nab off amazon for like $25 https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=audio+extractor&qid=1564162667&s=gateway&sr=8-3
gotcha.
unfortunately, i'm not familiar with any of the brands you mention, so i cant offer an experienced opinion.
i'm using https://classdaudio.com/cda-250-power-amplifier-module.html, with audio from https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/, using the hdmi out on a Raspberry Pi running Volmio.
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computers are notorious for being a noisy source, when using them as an analog input.
a usb sound card very often helps because it isolates the audio ground from the computer ground.
certainly worth a try :)
My monitor doesn't have a 3.5 out for sound, so I use something like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/
It works well enough. I use it for all my hdmi devices: Wii U, PS4, Firestick, SNESClassic.
This is the actual one I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/ViewHD-Extractor-Optical-Toslink-Converter/dp/B00KBHX072
But the one I posted before has better review ratio.
My biggest complaint is that is plugs in with a powerjack that needs to take up multiple slots. It would be swell if it were USB powered. Let me know if you have any questions?
This is a bit of a tricky setup, but as long as you only want to use the microphone on your PC it is pretty achievable. Also if you want to play the sound off your PC and use a gaming console, you will require a mixer to play both sources. If you don't require this it makes your setup less complicated.
Either way you will need an HDMI audio extractor, this should work: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E Plug that into the output of HDMI switch then:
Setup 1 - With mixer. https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=614305 plug the output of the HDMI audio extractor and your PC (using 3.5mm to RCA cable). Headphones plug into mixer. This will not sound as good as option 2.
Setup 2 - With DAC. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0722FRQQ7 . Plug the output of the HDMI extractor (using an optical cable) and the PC in using a USB cable. Select one or the other using the toggle switch and it will play that source out to the headphones.
I would recommend setup 2, as the external DAC will be of higher quality.
As far as microphones go, try a USB one (this is a decent cheaper one, you can go more or less expensive: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B014PYGTUQ) to reduce the audio noise your friends are telling you about.
What you need is a "HDMI Audio Extractor":
1080p support: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/
4K support: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-Passthrough/dp/B074HHSJVN/
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538014979&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=HDMI+audio+extractor&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51OckVyi8YL&amp;ref=plSrch
Composit? Oh god burn it with fire. Literally the worst picture quality possible.
EDIT: Wait, do you mean component? Wait, you mean audio. Ok, hmmm. What about this? http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1420041827&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor
Although honestly you should think about finding a cheap used hdmi receiver for cheap. They've gotten very cheap in the last few years.
You'd be piggybacking another device in the chain, but something like this might work for you.
The top review on the page states that it can be used with chromecast to separate the audio and video streams.
See if you can find a Chromecast Audio for sale somewhere (the product was discontinued earlier this year). The Chromecast Audio provides a 3.5mm (or SPDIF) output which you could plug into the Line-In jack on your PC.
More complicated and expensive, you can get a regular Chromecast, and an HDMI audio extractor, which again provides an audio output from the HDMI source of the Chromecast, and then into the Line-in on your PC.
An HDMI audio extractor would work if you had external speakers.
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
HDMI out to the tv, l/r or spdif audio to an amp or powered speakers.
If you don't have external speakers, you will need something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/E-More%C2%AE-Component-Converter-Supporting-Coaxial/dp/B00QTIYMQ0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1449774767&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+convert+to+component
and use a component input on your TV. You need one of these with a scaler because I assume since the TV is old it won't accept 1080p over component so you can't use one of the cheaper straight HDMI to component adapters since the chromecast will output 1080p with no way to select.
One way would be to get an HDMI audio extractor. I've never used this one but J-Tech Digital has one for $27. It will basically give you an optical output and then pass the video along to your TV.
Or your TV might have an optical output as many of them do, so you could just plug the e10k DAC/amp into that.
If your sound bar has an optical audio in you can extract the HDMI audio to optical with one of this.
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
> o up to the HDMI extractor, which would then send the video to the TV and the audio to the SPDIF out.
> My worry was that I wouldn't get any sound from either my TV or my receiver if I hit mute on my receiver, so I tested it out. I muted my receiver and I'm still getting audio on
Yes. Most if not all receivers allow just HDMI passthrough. If you are getting sound on your tv and not from the speakers then you are good to go with the extractor.
Such as, http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451714037&amp;sr=8-14&amp;keywords=HDMI+audio
There are plenty out there. How would you change the volume? Does the receiver remote still change the volume? Of course, you could just get a headphone amp with a remote (assuming you don't want to get up).
Search Amazon for hdmi audio extractor. Is this what you need?
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
Here's an example: J-Tech Digital Premium Quality 1080P HDMI To HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter (JTDAT5CH) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_F2HOCb6SW191R
Many types at all the usual sources.
odds are you can't. those connectors are already "powered" and are meant for the purpose built speakers.
you can try something like this but I still doubt it will work.
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you will almost assuredly need to pull the audio from your source first. if your cable box or comptuer doesn't have an audio output, you can insert something like this between your source and the display and pull the audio that way.
I talked with my wife about this and she mentioned you'd probably need some kind of receiver to split the audio, otherwise you'd just have two channel. That got me thinking and I looked around but didn't really find anything that would work. There's HDMI > DVI + audio but only with two RCAs for audio. BTW that LCD is awesome....I want it.
I found this...it could be a start.
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Registered-Trademark-Extractor/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=pd_cp_e_3
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Astro put out a link regarding the lack of Optical port. You may be able to use information from here to help:
http://blog.astrogaming.com/2016/09/astro-ps4-slim/
It's working great so far, but there are a few quirks. I have to manually toggle the optical input with a remote to switch between audio for my PC and PS4, but i'm not the type of person to have videos streaming while i play games. If i really wanted to, i could plug a cord into the AUX on my monitor and my Logitech 2.1 speakers to have concurrent audio.
Here's my setup:
PS4 HDMI is hooked into this box to split the audio out of the hdmi
HDMI from that box connects to my monitor and the optical cable plugs into this optical audio switcher
One optical cable goes from that switcher to my PC and the other connects to the speakers here
I haven't noticed any signal degradation despite the double boxes and extra cables stretching into every direction.
Had the same issue and bought this one. You're gonna need two HDMI cables to use it, and every once in a while you have to unplug it and plug it back in because it'll shut off the optical port in itself for some reason. Works fine, though.
Oh man, do I have an update for you.
Pretty much right before you responded yesterday, had I doubled down and bought the RCA version of the HDMI audio extractor I had (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1) and figured I'd just return both it if it didn't work.
For reasons unknown to me, it worked. I plugged in an RCA to 3.5mm adapter I had and boom. I have no idea what happened, but I just figured I'd let you know and anyone who will happen to come across this thread.
Once again, thanks for all your help!
I bought one of these $25 HDMI audio extractors for my mom, specifically to use with her Roku and an old receiver. It's been working great for her.
I have a 2016 Roku Ultra that I use the optical connection on, and I don't care for it. The 4K video side is great, but the optical audio has problems. There is a delay every time before the audio starts up, even if I just do something as small as pause a video. Some times it'll just lose audio completely, not even on menus, and I have to reboot the entire device.
That will not work for OP. The vast majority of HDMI devices (Including the 290X) output only digital video, whereas VGA is analog. That's why OP needs an active adapter, not just a passive cable. The 290X appears to not have any analog outputs at all, so an active adapter like this is necessary.
You'll need a different video card, or a different monitor. Or I suppose an active converter, like this https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS, although I've never used one.
So first we need to know exactly what connector the GPU has. Please identify the connector from this chart as some of the connectors are unable to do analog output.
You state that it's a DVI-D output, which doesn't have the necessary analog pins as per this image
so unless you have a DVI-I or a DVI-A on your motherboard, you will then have to get an active digital to analog converter such as one of these
You're probably hooking up your monitor to your motherboard so you're using integrated graphics. You have to plug the monitor cable into the GPU.
To use VGA you'll have to buy an active DVI to VGA adapter like this one https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
You can put a simple Passive DVI-VGA adapter (The ones that they usually include with the Card) on the DVI-I for one of your VGA monitors but you'll need an Active adapter for either the Displayport or DVI-D to connect the 2nd VGA monitor, something like this or this
edit. fixed 2nd link
> how do i activate it?
That's not what I mean by "active". What you've got there is a passive adapter and if you do indeed have a DVI-D connector, you're going to need to buy an active one instead.
i'm sorry, i was originally referring to which model GPU
but the adapter you bought is referred to as a PASSIVE adapter...i honestly hate that they allow these things to be sold since they don't work
HERE is a link to an ACTIVE DVI-D to VGA adapter, the active adapters require power to function, this particular one draws power from a separate included USB cable, that's how it converts digital signal to analog correctly
You either need to buy a new monitor or get an active adapter to be able to use a VGA cable, like this one.
You may need an active adapter, not a passive one since you're converting a digital (DVI) signal to analog (VGA). They're a bit more pricy, but it's for a reason.
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI-D-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
What you'll need is an 'active' dvi to vga converter. Search amazon for these and you should find loads - buy the most popular one. Example: http://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-Active-Adapter-Converter-1920x1200/dp/B00C93JQXS/
You need an active adapter.
Like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
You can use an adapter for the dvi-i port.
The white one on the bottom in the pic.
You have to use a converter for the dvi-d port.
The black one on top in the pic.
The dvi-i port is integrated digital and analog.
It already outputs an analog signal.
You can use a plain adapter here.
One should come with your card.
The dvi-d port only outputs a digital signal.
That output needs separate hardware to convert(not adapt) the digital signal to an analog format.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C93JQXS/
I assume your monitors are 15pin vga.
Something like VNC would probably be the best option, but if you insist on using TV something like a display emulator should do the trick.
Is there onboard video? In by case I needed to make sure that the onboard video was plugged in so that Unraid's command line would use that and allow it to pass my 1070 correctly. I ended up buying a HDMI dummy plug so I didn't need to remember to plug in to the onboard first.
Maybe this will work?
I have an AMD R7 250 card in my R710. I have a VM running as a headless gaming PC for my Steam Link. I got this card: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H5DJDL2/ I was not aware of the PCI power limitation on the R710 when I bought the card so I guess I got lucky. It's bit of an older card, but it runs fine off of PCI power and supports DirectX 12.
One of the dual x8 riser cards in the R710 can be replaced with an x16 riser card. I didn't want to buy that riser card, so I soldered out the back of an x8 slot to get it to fit in. The GPU won't max out an x8 slot anyway.
AMD cards should all be OK for passthrough. They apparently don't artificially limit them like NVIDIA does.
If you're going to have a display plugged in to the card you shouldn't need anything else, but if you want to utilize the GPU in a remote session like I do you'll need to plug in a display emulator and disable the VM virtual display adapter. I bought one of these to emulate a 1080p display: https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
And you may need a headless monitor adapter to get full screen resolution. This one works well.
I use mine headless. I use vnc to access locally, and used to use the chrome remote desktop for when I wasn't home. Problem with that was, if you don't have a mouse hooked up, you don't get a cursor.
Also, the resolution can get jacked up if you don't have a monitor, so a headless hdmi dummy plug fixes that problem. This is the one I have
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_McChAbWEZN581
A display emulator would do the trick
yes for AMD cards they have to have monitor plugged in to them or you get hdmi dummy plugs. Something like this https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=pd_sbs_147_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00FLZXGJ6&amp;pd_rd_r=FSSEKECX6SAY57VZWBHA&amp;pd_rd_w=AhFZX&amp;pd_rd_wg=IRRq0&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=FSSEKECX6SAY57VZWBHA
I'm not sure if there's a software solution, but they specifically sell devices like this one which emulate a monitor to make remote desktop work in situations like yours.
No problem. Just plug in this;
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
and still remote into it.
it's that remoting into it that still doesn't appear to work for now. Once that was possible, can work around everything else.
So it's just a difference of monitor attached vs monitor not attached? You could get a dummy display adapter to fool the device into thinking it's got a monitor attached.
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Your problem is called booting headless. Some consumer bios likes to stop and throw an error when no display is detected.
Fix is to resistor mod the vga output, or buy a headless display emulator, such as something like this
You're going to need a monitor of some kind most likely, at the very least to get everything setup, and because this stuff is in it's infancy and just won't always work reliably without one.
If you already have a computer of some kind, once you get setup you can share your desktop over VNC or RDP to do just about anything you can't do in the Rift.
If not, buy a decent monitor for this rig as well. You'll want it when you get tired of trying to read in the HMD. The Rift is being marketed, and designed, as a peripheral and not a main display, so using it as one is going to be a little janky at best.
If you're still set, Virtual Desktop currently also requires a 'real' display buffer to read from.
You've got two easy options I know about there. The first, and probably preferred, is using a DVI dummy plug: http://www.amazon.com/CablesOnline-Graphics-Display-Detection-VE-D11/dp/B00N85QYGS
These were popular for bitcoin miners or CUDA devs who's GPUs wouldn't work without something plugged in. These should let you set just about whatever custom resolution you wish.
Another, newer but not necessarily better, option is to emulate a real HDMI monitor with one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-4K-Display-Emulator-fit-Headless/dp/B00JKFTYA8
Reviews seem mixed, but the use cases vary widely. The main issue with these may be setting a refresh rate that isn't terrible, one reviewer mentioned not being able to get >15fps on the 4k model.
Possible to pick up a headless emulator like this:
CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4LxyybD84A4KR
Or:
CompuLab 4K Display Emulator (fit-Headless 4K) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JKFTYA8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1NxyybJG915J3
Should recognize as a monitor even when you turn your real monitor off.
EDIT: Not just a 480 problem by the way. Happens with my Fury X as well.
I think you might want to look into one of these, a headless HDMI adapter:
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522528311&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=headless+HDMI&amp;dpID=31uHUN7qVqL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Basically, it makes your PC think that you have a second monitor. You could probably have Steam open up on the headless adapter and stream it from that. I have not tried this myself, but I have heard of others doing this.
I'm not sure about doing it with software, however I would use hardware like this or this
This..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1519347698&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=hdmi+dummy&dpPl=1&dpID=31uHUN7qVqL&ref=plSrch
I have a 2012 i5/16/SSD that does all my server-ey things in my lab straight on OSX, and I've been really happy with it. I'd be cautious with the C2D's as they're getting a little long in the tooth to do any really solid media transcoding. I'd also budget for an HDMI display emulator if you're going to run it headless- if there isn't a display plugged in, the machine powers down the video card, leading to some performance hits. Happy to answer any other questions you have.
You could try using nvidia's Dynamic Super resolution to render it in 1080, but it may still look weird on your screen (since it would first be down-scaled to 1650x1050 and then resized back to 1080 for your TV.)
You could also use a display emulator and set that as your primary monitor for when you want to stream.
Other than that, your only real option is to get a 1920x1080 monitor. ASUS and BenQ are good bets, and you can find one for $80-$130 on Amazon or Newegg.
One of these:https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZXGJ6/
use with a usb-c to hdmi adapter
plug it in; then set it to "second display only" and then plug in the oculus.
Alternatively try plugging in a real second monitor and see if that works just as well.
Hap hap hello there! I am a bot and you linked to Amazon.
This comment contains 1 pricing graph(s)
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Product 1: Magewell XI100DUSB-HDMI USB Capture HDMI 3.0 HD Video Capture Dongle (B00I16VQOY)
Imgur pricing graph
||Amazon|3P New|Used|
|--:|:--|:--|:--|
|Cur||$299.00|$275.00|
|Hi||$299.00|$284.05|
|Lo||$239.00|$199.99|
|Avg||$279.62|$265.66|
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You can get an HDMI->USB adapter (not USB->HDMI) that captures video in real time and displays it on screen. But the ones with any sort of reasonable quality/performance are rather pricey:
real deal:
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Capture-Video-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY
knockoff: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M64EAX6
budget: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00I0QZMPE
Plus there is the HCDP stuff to deal with for movie content which is a big pain.
HDMI splitters and HDMI capture devices?
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I have had good luck with https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=3RQPBD8L5NYNI&keywords=usb+hdmi+capture&qid=1556715213&s=gateway&sprefix=usb+hdmi+cap%2Caps%2C143&sr=8-5
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The same company also makes this for caputreing 4 hdmi at the same time
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-Capture-Quad-HDMI-Video/dp/B0178DV064/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=Magewell&qid=1556715250&s=gateway&sr=8-6
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There are some network hdmi capture devices but I have not used any so I cant say which are good examples.
Yep, I've used one like this and it worked brilliantly. No drivers needed, full HD, hardly any lag. Only real downside is the price!
The best you're going to do at $500 (but still see significantly improved picture quality) is probably a $200-ish consumer grade camera and the rest on a capture device. for HDMI to USB3, I've used this one many times and it works well:
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY
But that doesn't leave much room to play for a camera and stay around $500. For consumer cameras I like the picture quality of the Canon Vixia line, but Sony, Panasonic, etc. have similar consumer cameras at similar prices. Here's one that fits the budget:
https://www.amazon.com/Canon-VIXIA-R700-Camcorder-Black/dp/B019UDIL80/
This one even has a mic jack, which is a nice plus.
You might be able to save even more on the capture device by getting something like one of the Blackmagic decklink capture cards, if you have a desktop to put it in. Still, you're only going to save $15-$25 or so.
If you can put your budget into the $1,500-$2,000 then you could move up to a true prosumer camera or even a professional camera if you buy used. A used Panasonic HMC-150 should be going for about $1-$1.5k on ebay. You'd really see a jump up to pro looking video at that point.
This might also work for you...Magewell XI100DUSB-HDMI (~$300 USD) . it's more expensive but has usb 3.0 and claims to be driver free. Has pretty good reviews also.
if you have a USB 3.0 port on your PC, you could get a real time capture card, like this one:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815100171
or this http://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/product-reviews/B00I16VQOY/ref=cm_cr_dp_see_all_btm?ie=UTF8&amp;showViewpoints=1&amp;sortBy=bySubmissionDateDescending
These will let you game on the PC monitor and record clips of it.
Are you really sure you need to collect 32 clunky old TVs? My 2016 UHD TV accepts composite input so I imagine that other modern TVs would as well. Or if not you could get a composite to HDMI converter. Or you could get a backwards compatible Wii which uses component cables. I would think any of those options would be preferable?
Edit: Remembered that the Wii uses component, not HDMI.
Edit 2: Since you need 32 of each thing, maybe my ideas aren't that helpful.
Wait, are you saying that you can't send it in for repairs at all? That your only option is to buy another? If so that sucks man. But there is another option. You can buy one of these to convert from av to HDMI if your tv doesn't have an AV in connection. Amazon lists that one at $35, but I bet you could find a cheaper one
I don't really know what you're asking... My TV has standard composite input and it's 4K and fairly new. But a quick Google search reveals plenty of adapters and upscalers like this. Hope this helps a little.
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
Does that not work?
What you will need is something like this.
Thanks for the comparisons !
So would I be better off returning the Composite to HDMI adapter ?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I482KZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
sorry I hope this isn't too confusing -- my main question is would it be better to do VGA to HDMI or -- Composite to HDMI -- or would it make no difference at all since the image is being transferred to digital ?
Also thank you very much ! the Dreamcast reddit seems to have a very nice community -- I'm happy to finally own one after so many years.
I just got the Elgato HD60 Pro internal capture card myself, and had to get an RCA to HDMI adapter as well. I got the following adapter, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I482KZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1, and it auto upscales the signal to 720p or 1080p and is working with no issues.
This is the one I bought works pretty good. No lag as far as I can tell.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I482KZI?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
Your best bet might be just to get an HDMI-to-component converter. I don't know what's good in this space, but here's an example.
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETHRV-Component-Converter-Windows-10/dp/B00J22LGYG
You'll need this so it can convert HDMI to Component.
https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETHRV-Component-Converter-Windows-10/dp/B00J22LGYG
Those cables dont work like 95% of the time. Normally when converting a digital signal to analog youll need a converter box thats powered.
Converter
6ft Component
2ft HDMI
AV and Component are not the same, you need to make sure you get component if you want to maintain the HD signal and audio. The current product you linked won't work. Component has 5 plugs on the end, not 3. You'd need something more like this, along with a component cable: http://www.amazon.com/E-More%C2%AE-Component-Video-Converter-Supporting/dp/B00J22LGYG
Also the TV model you mentioned before actually has 2 HDMI inputs. Are they being used by other things?
I have a superslim.
I use this after my tv's hdmi ports stopped working and had to use everything over component.
I had old component cables I had for my ps2 that used the classic port and blu-ray wouldn't work, but with this, everything does.
What about this one? In the reviews it says it works with Xbox One.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B00J22LGYG/ref=mw_dp_cr
What other inputs does the TV have? Composite is pretty shitty, even when talking about analog inputs.
>I'm considering buying an HDMI to composite adapter but I need one to transfer the sound to the TV speakers as well.
Anything like this should transfer audio as well:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBQZC4M/
>I would also want to use the TV as an everyday monitor but of course 640x480 wouldn't be very livable.
I'm not sure what you are asking here. Are you asking for CRT TV suggestions? Or is this just a general comment?
Something like this is what I meant:
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
It doesn't matter that your TV won't understand there digital HDMI signal, because this converts it to analog (composite, SD in this case). Then an RF modulator can be used if the TV doesn't have a direct line in.
I have this exact one, works great.
It will work. In really low res because that's what the monitor is only capable of.
Edit: Didn't notice you said cable. Yeah a cable won't work, you need something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1453486162&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+rca
Should be this one:
http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451943024&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+component+converter
Hope this help and good luck
not quite sure, but do you mean one of theese? http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1425334586&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=dvi+to+component+audio
Hey, I got a streaming pc because I couldnt stand input and fps lag in overwatch like you and I plan on streaming it full time for a bit.
I personally think its worth it for me, but its really up to you whether you can spare the money.
I got this capture card. Its basically Chinese copy of the SC-512N1-l which is the only affordable capture card that does 1080p60fps uncompressed video.
I spent AGES looking up other capture cards and this is the cheapest card that offers uncompressed unfiltered video. The popular elgato60 pro cards out there are the same price but give a washed out look to the stream which I hate and dont offer uncompressed video. Look at sodapoppins stream for what I mean, all the colours are always washed out no matter what hes playing. I've seen some streamers fix the colours for the most part but it still ends up looking a little weird.
Heres my last vod, I'm extremely happy with how my stream looks. 720p 60fps on medium preset 3500 bitrate.
I use a c920 set to 720p, basically all streamers use this, its more than enough for twitch, even at fullscreen.
In order to remove delay and more importantly tearing on stream, I dont clone, or use passthrough. Instead I extend the capture card as a second monitor and run a obs in fullscreen preview with "disable encoding while previewing" ticked.
This is the ONLY way to remove screen tearing with capture card setups. You can see streamers like Destiny use the clone method and still get tearing in fast paced games like overwatch despite having a 120hz ~£1000 capture card.
As for the stream pc graphics card. I tried to use the i7 6700k intel inbuilt graphics but obs was lagging with the settings mentioned above. I put my old ati 6870 (which I'm pretty sure is supposed to be worse than the i7 6700's graphics capabilities) and it fixed the problems. So it does seem to require a gpu, but any gpu will do fine.
I am an in-house corporate video producer that recently got into live-streaming for the job as they've ordered all the equipment/software/ and had the networking support and hardware to support it. To do "proper" live streaming on your own is just ridiculous. You need multiple camera operators, especially for sports. You need experience with a switching board like a Tricaster, you need network support, and you need a back end interface for managing the live stream "events" like Vbrick.
For a company that does thing and brings all their own equipment and people, they can charge anywhere from 25k to 50k for a half day shoot.
OR, you could just have a single camera attached to a HDMI capture card, run that into OBS and then stream that to YouTube. That is relatively easy for a single person to do.
To add to the other two suggestions, I'll add what I believe are two far better solutions: The GV-USB2 and USB3HDCAP
The GV-USB2 is a USB dongle-style capture card that only captures composite/RCA video and S-video, which is the best you'll get from the Gamecube without expensive cables. It's about $35 USD.
The Startech USB3HDCAP is more expensive, but it will capture HDMI for newer consoles and PCs, as well as composite, S-Video, Component (the best video signal out of a Wii and easy to get cables for), and even RGB. It's probably the best quality card there is at its price and it's offered me a far better user experience than Elgato's devices have for me. I also know PJ DiCesare uses it for his runs and he has excellent capture quality. It's currently on sale for $182.
Importantly, both will capture video at 60fps which I'm not convinced the standard def EZcap will do, and without the added noise and delay I find Elgato devices tend to add.
Hopefully this helps.
I'll just give you the quick answer first, if you foresee the need to do this multiple times (or even if rarely but in critical time) just buy a monitor + keyboard + mouse. It's cheap and most importantly, very reliable.
-----
VGA in.
You need a capture card for this. Very few - if any - laptop would have this natively, though external USB card like this exists
Capture software.
This (in combination with the capture card) will be the most annoying thing. If you follow any twitch streamer you'll see how often this setup breaks - it almost depends on your windows update.
USB-to-USB.
USB is not a peer to peer protocol, you need something called USB bridge like this to convert output one side to input at the other side. This is also a dying breed, very few - if any - PC, both desk- and lap-top would even have this natively.
Keyboard-and-mouse-output.
Once you have the bridge, you need a software that map your keystroke into USB output. You also need to simulate the handshakes that identify your laptop (indirectly through the bridge) as a mouse and keyboard. Off the top of my head, I don't know any such software, and if they exists, they may only work with very specific bridges.
Every one of those component can break, and because how uncommon this setup is, I'd imagine it's not easy to 1) set up and 2) keep it working. You'll almost need a dedicate laptop for it. That'll definitely be more expensive than a spare monitor + keyboard + mouse.
NTSC Video Capture:720x480 @30FPS :/ although its a great price and probably 30fps is totally fine
can't find much footage of that, this is what i found from quick googling for a good and muich more expensive alternative http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3HDCAP-Video-Capture-Device/dp/B00PC5HUA6
The HD Retrovision cables have compatibility issues and are very picky about what they are hooked up to, I had to buy a Startech capture card because my old Elgato wouldn't recognize them. The Startech was well worth the upgrade and it has worked with all of my consoles, as well as the HD Retrovision cables.
There are devices to extract the sound from HDMI and the continue then video signal. You could get that, and then a simple HDMI to DP adapter. I mean, it's a lot of connections, but you can then do what you want to do!
EDIT:
Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1485301575&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=HDMI+Audio+Extractor
And then this: https://www.amazon.com/Startech-DP2HDMI-DisplayPort-Adapter-Converter/dp/B0017K6BDW
Of course, just look for an option that fits your budget.
There are legit devices like this that take the HDMI audio/video, strip off the audio and send out to optical, and continue to feed video only HDMI out of the output. I have one made by Turtle Beach. Not familiar with this particular one but check around Amazon and research a few of them before buying maybe.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=zg_bs_292564_1
I can't advise on netflix (don't have it) but I did have a problem with the supplied shield controller - home and back buttons were both extremely unreliable, even after a full charge, missing 90-95% of presses. Fortunately, I got two controllers as part of an amazon UK deal, and the 2nd one worked perfectly. I sent the dodgy controller back to amazon and the replacement also works fine, both before and after controller firmware update. So it may well be you too just have a dodgy button'd controller alas.
Kodi works fine for DTS & AC3 passthrough to on my receiver, when I switched it on instead of downmixing! I have switched to SPMC though, a kodi fork with better shield integration (voice search in and out of SPMC, SPMC shows/films showing up in recommendations being the ones I use most)
AFAIK, the shield doesn't support any interlaced modes at all, including 1080i.
With regards getting your Z5500 surround working (used to use that myself until recently!) you can use a usb soundcard on the shield, like this one (http://www.amazon.com/Turtle-Beach-Advantage-Digital-Adapter/dp/B0036VO4X4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463782348&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=advantage+micro+ii) or an hdmi -> spdif splitter such as this (http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1463782375&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=hdmi+optical+splitter) or there are RCA versions - either should get you AC3 & DTS support
I would consider using a device that takes HDMI from the TV and splits out SPDIF audio. SPDIF is also referred to as Optical Audio sometimes.
Amazon has quite a few. I am fortunate enough to have a TV with the Optical Out built in so I don't use this type of device but have seen many posts referring people to them in cases such as yours.
Check them out here.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/
Maybe someone else can chime in with an exact model.
Best of luck !
I just setup Sonos 5.1 with Playbar, Sub &amp; 2x Play:1's. Really really like it.
I rent and move often due to my job. Drilling holes isn't an option in most of the houses so this setup is perfect. Sounds great too of course!
use this Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/?&amp;ref=flgs_ip_share
but can't you just get an hdmi splitter?
Check this out at Amazon.com - Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital/Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Y82WDb322G1PM
is it any different or better than that in that case?
I think what you might want is an HDMI Audio extractor feeding a Bluetooth transmitter talking to a Bluetooth reciever, ala:
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/
https://www.amazon.com/Miccus-Home-RTX-Mini-Transmitter/dp/B0197VRGVI/ (need two of these)
And then connect them via optical cables on both ends.
Does your monitor have HDMI audio built on or do you need external speakers? If its the latter I would recommend the following
You would connect your antenna to the HW-180STB whose HDMI output goes to the HDMI input on the HDMI adapter. The HDMI output of the adapter goes to your monitor and you plug in external speakers to that as well.
Get this: Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital/Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_lPD0Db4C0BKG0
I used it with my commercial TV that has no digital audio out and it works flawlessly.
If you really have that receiver, run Apple tv and chromecast into the hdmi inputs, use dvi/hdmi cable to tv from hdmi output on receiver. Sound should passthrough to the sureound/external speakers natively. This is the optimal solution.
--
If you have to use the splitter, run both devices to it, run hdmi/dvi to the tv from that output. Run a secondary optical audio line to the receiver (av1 or 4 in your picture) from the apple tv. With this method, You wont get audio from the chromecast without dembedding it i dont think.
If you go the splitter/dembed route, skip the optical from apple tv, and run the output of your splitter to the dembed box and the video output of that box dvi/hdmi to the tv. Then run the sound from the box to the receiver or tv.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017B6WFP8/ref=mp_s_a_1_sc_6?ie=UTF8&amp;amp;qid=1467178784&amp;amp;sr=8-6-spell&amp;amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+dembedder
--
Special note: most bluray players and a lot of high def content runs copyright protection software called DHCP. Depending on the age of your tv, if the dvi does not support dhcp some stuff wont play back or will be distorted. Additionally some newer hardware uses higher spec hdmi (like 2.0) and that probably wont play well with the dvi either. Just FYI...
I wonder if one of these will work:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017B6WFP8
Because it won't work. You have to have an HDMI repeater, which generally costs $10-15. They also have cable sleeving on them which is about $7-8.
I was looking into making one but for everything you see it's will cost about $35-40 for a 10' extension plus having to deal with sleeving cables. I don't think $20 extra is too bad a deal to have everything assembled and sent to your door. Especially if you hate cable sleeving like me.
You could always just use cable ties and it'd make it about $30 and a little easier, but if you don't like ugly cables the sleeving is the way to go.
For anyone wondering here's my list of items needed to make one (please note I have not personally tested any of these cables. These are recommendations from another user (I think OP)):
COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Yc2GAbWY6JQX0
Cable Matters SuperSpeed USB 3.0 Type A Male to Female Extension Cable in Black 10 Feet https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C7SA21U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Vd2GAbJSS05X4
Monoprice Active Select Series High-Speed HDMI Cable 10 Feet with RedMere Technology Supports Ethernet, 3D, 4K and Audio Return - Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008D5ETHE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gf2GAbFA4REA2
Techflex PTN0.50BK25 Flexo PET General Purpose 1/2-inch Braided Cable Sleeve, Black - 25 Foot https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004UHQNUU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Tf2GAbBTGYGTT
You mean this, plus an additional hdmi cable?
https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Signal-Amplifier-Splitter/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483471685&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=2k4k+hdmi+repeater
This was the only thing that worked for me. After trying one other repeater, several different extenders, all in different slots through converters.
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DMFB5OK
i use these on my rift to have my desktop in the office and rift in my garage. as for DP, no clue. i use
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B014I8TC4E
and https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS for the hdmi, i imagine something similar would work for rift s
Does the hdmi extender have a built in repeater? If not you'll need one of these.
I had similar issues where it was playing fine for months then started cutting in and out to where it became unplayable. Thought I may have busted the cord so bought a new one. That didn't help so then realized it was my hdmi cords fault, got the repeater, and that solved my issue.
I had no luck with the 10' Cable Matters USB 3.0 or the Monoprice 10' HDMI for the Headset. However, I did have success with the Cable Matters 6' and 10' for the sensors when I grouped them right next to each other on the back of my PC as my computer has the USB 3.0s in pairs in the various locations that they exist on the PC. The 10' Cable Matters HDMI wasn't available. Anyway, when I got them I realized I didn't need quite that length anyway.
I have two 3' Cable Matters for the USB and HDMI coming tomorrow so I can test that. If that doesn't work, I'm going to try ordering a 2k4K repeater which apparently helped some. There are 4 I found on Amazon, 3 run at 30hz and 1 at 60hz. I don't know if that matters as a repeater with 60hz only had two reviews on Amazon. If none of that works, I'll email Oculus Support :-)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&amp;coliid=I23EYCUHDYL2HO&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01J13YESA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&amp;coliid=I3NHB8WC7WI0TE&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJ6QXFI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&amp;coliid=I2T4R7XZLC2AGW
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CJ6QXFI/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=20TJ7VWVA13A5&amp;coliid=I2T4R7XZLC2AGW
Others have had success with HDMI repeaters like this one.
I had to add a repeater to get a 10' extension to work. This is the one I'm using now. I was still having some issues at first with the sound dropping out, but after unplugging, plugging back in, and restarting the computer, it's working fine.
Some people can't get the 10ft HDMI extension to work without a repeater. As far as usb you want a repeater both to help with signal loss.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I would try a HDMI extension cord (10 Foot) with this between the rift and the extension
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
has worked fine on 3 setup for me so far without issue. I have had many troubles with other products but this was perfect for me.
Sums it up perfectly. 2m works for the majority and 3m or more can introduce issues.
I had luck with these cables
2m HDMI cable that works for most extending the headset (up to 3m works for me)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JJ519KC/
2m USB 3.0 cable that works for most extending the headset (up to 3m works for me)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFL6ARO
My RMA refurb Rift for some reason didn't work on my 3m cables (worked on original Rift) but after I changed USB ports they started working again.
Some people way that these HDMI Repeaters solve their issues when they have HDMI problems.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS
Not sure if there's an easier, more direct way, but one of these or similar would probably do the trick.
No particular weight should be given to my selection of this one - it just happened to come up high in the search list with a high star rating... I don't own it myself and can't give a personal review.
Did you mean SK3D?
I think one of these would work
It was easy enough to do! I'm sure your manager would know. If not you can message me. We used a splitter that was hdmi in and hdmi/RCA out so we were able to get the hdmi attached to the projector for video and the RCA cables attached to our audio rack.
Edit: here is the splitter we used:
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A/
Your setup could be far different from ours, but good luck!
PS4 slim doesn't have an optical audio output unlike the older PS4 and the newer PS4 pro. So looks like I have only the second option.
Any small size and not expensive recommendation? For example, would this be enough? But it has L and R outputs seperately, I should be able to use the headphones with it too I guess.
I own the legendary Logitech Z-5500 5.1 system. I had used this audio extractor previously to run audio into the Logitech 5.1. It worked great except the rear surround channels were weak. I had to up their volume. I recently upgraded my TV to a Sony XBR-43X800D which actually outputs multi channel on the optical out so I no longer need the iArkPower HDMI audio Extractor. I am then able to simply put the Switch HDMI directly to the TV and the optical out from the Sony TV will feed it directly to the Logitech 5.1 system. I have to then set the TV to have full audio to come out of the optical connection. You may also have to change audio settings on the Switch itself in the system settings. Now, this works for me because the Logitech Z-5500 or the Z906 can decode Dolby Surround on the unit itself. This will probably not work on other logitech sound system speakers. It sounds like your TV actually outputs the actual sound instead of just two channels on the optical out. So if you got the Z-5500 or the Z906 system, the set will run sound from the Switch in Surround or Dolby Digital.
There is a way to have the sound decoded through optical if you don't have either of these speakers. It is an Astro headphone amp. I have this hooked on my PC and routed to the same Z-5500 speakers. It doesn't exactly decode the audio to the best quality, but you're getting actual processed surround. This is my bedroom setup, so it doesn't have to be uncompressed Linear PCM audio. bitstream compressed surround works very well and been used since the DVD days. Even audiophiles had expensive receivers that DID NOT have HDMI connectors like the Denon AVR4802R. But many people won't really be able to tell the difference between bitstream and L PCM audio unless you're an audiophile who has to have the highest quality audio.
It shouldn't matter how much the quality of the sound comes into the Logitech Speakers. You won't get the uncompressed sound to come out of TVs' optical out. As someone mentioned, most TVs can't output uncompressed audio through the optical out. But it will still come out bitstreamed with the DTS, dolby digital or surround audio. It just has to be decoded. This is sound that is still going to be multiple levels better than TV speakers or dual speaker setups. Nintendo has not always been good with providing DTS or Dolby Digital on their games. You will only hear this on Sony consoles and their games. Same for Xbox. It would be recommended to have something like an audio home theater receiver to properly decode and run the high quality audio through the latest HDMI versions for Sony and Xbox consoles.
If you want to run your Logitech with the best possible sound, do what I mentioned above but also replace the two front speakers with REAL bookshelf speakers (can be small like 3.5" woofers) that also include tweeters. Those PC speakers run great with powerful bass (assuming you got the Z5500 or the Z906) but have little range because they don't have tweeters for voice. I switched my two fronts with Energy small bookshelves. the speaker connections are the same as real speakers and are not those cheap rca hookups. If you don't own one of the two speaker systems I mentioned, you could get yourself an Astro mixamp to decode the surround or Dolby Digital.
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=B18CACPPK2XTXY03NDFQ
You'd need an HDMI audio splitter/extractor. They're not exactly cheap.
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A
But cheaper than a new TV. Keep in mind I've no personal experience with them.
I use this audio extractor.
As far as a mixer there are lots of options for that. My turtle beach headphones have a two preamps and separate volume controls for game and chat already built in so I don’t need a mixer. The one featured is a high dollar piece. Like $150
You'll need a hardware add-on like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mZ2pDb1GN38J6
Edit: make sure you check if it supports PAL or NTSC and get a converter than can do the right one or both.
You'll have to buy a converter. Something that takes composite in and outputs HDMI.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW
If I remember correctly Commodore put out something like S-Video component as well. I'm not sure if there's a direct way to convert that. If there were, it would be better becuase the HW wouldn't need a notch filter.
You could also use a capture device on a PC and display it in a window on your PC.
One of these should work, although the ratings are kind of low.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=composite+video+capture+for+pc&amp;ref=nb_sb_noss
An HDMI switch maybe and then adapt each composite input into HDMI with one of these to be able to plug into the switch.
That's gonna be a converter for each of the older consoles (PS2, GameCube and N64) then the rest (Xbox 360, Wii) they run HDMI native IIRC so they just plug into the HDMI switch.
Is truly no big deal, it's called 'Composite' jack. Something like this works great.
>I've been looking at RCA to HDMI converters such as this one but I don't know if it will work or not.
It'll work, but it's not what you want, and is absolutely not what you need.
All that'll do is digitize your analog composite feed into an HDMI feed, but you still need some way to get the footage into your computer. That HDMI port on the side isn't bidirectional.
>Does anyone know the best way for me to transfer the footage to a computer?
You need some kind of capture device. If you can get your hands on a Digital8 camcorder it will have an internal digitizer, and then all you need is a 4-pin-to-9-pin Firewire cable, and, probably, unless your laptop is old enough to have a built-in Firewire port, which I doubt, a Firewire to Thunderbolt adapter. From there iMovie should be able to directly capture the footage straight off the camcorder.
Do not look at Firewire to USB cables, they aren't a real thing, they don't work, they are a complete and total fraud and should be used by nobody.
Alternatively you could look at some kind of USB digitizer, there's a bunch of them out there, just try and avoid any devices with hardware video encoders. Hardware encoders are handy to have in some situations, but the rest of the time they produce inferior results to software options. Hauppauge, Diamond, Dazzle, Blackmagic, AJA, Matrox, Elgato (rebranded Hauppauge with macOS software), AVer, there's a few good brands out there. Most of them come with software, but when shopping around make sure you're not buying a cut-rate "hardware only" package, or if you are, make sure you have software that works with the hardware.
These are two different tiers: $15 and $35. Read the reviews and see what you think.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=composite+hdmi+converter+n64&amp;qid=1558105072&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
The more expensive one has S-video input. This usually is better than the composite video input converter, if you have the S-video cable:
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-S-Video-Converter-Upscaler/dp/B00V2ULHBS/ref=sr_1_9?keywords=composite+hdmi+converter+n64&amp;qid=1558105209&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-9
These are just 2 examples. Especially with the cheaper models, there are zillions of different Chinese made units that all look the same, so make sure you read the reviews.
For that you'll need some converter, probably similar to this. I've got very little experience with these though. Good luck!
I got this to make it work with my Roku. Works almost except the aspect ratio is stretched. But definitely playable.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mUwOBbSEVQKF4
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_iGSNBb7FZCZVW
Simple
Cheap
Nothing special
Ran into the same issue a few months ago when I upgraded TV’s. Though modding your N64 would produce the best outcome, if you want an easy cheap solution that works just fine, I used this converter from amazon. It works just fine for casual playing and there is no noticeable input lag. All the best!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RLc0DbDW1X6VH
You'll need to convert the analog video into digital video to input into the recording software. Make sure whatever you get is actively converting the video...if the device doesn't require a power source it's probably not going to work (unless there's some new magic thing I don't know about). There may be a device that does all this, but I'm not aware of it's existence.
To covert the component video to digital video, you've got a few options which you'd probably choose based on how you want to capture video. If you've already got a capture setup for modern consoles (e.g HDMI input into a capture card) you can do something like this and just plug your classic console into the setup
RCA to HDMI:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521128839&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=component+to+hdmi
If you just want straight USB input into your PC this looks like it should work:
https://www.amazon.com/Yosoo-Converter-Adapter-Video-Capture/dp/B0199DRWQ8/ref=sr_1_2?s=wireless&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1521131246&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=RCA+capture+card
edited down - thought about this more and realized I really overcomplicated it originally
TL;DR - Don't buy adapters like this, as they are a scam. Buy something like this instead.
Edit: maybe not as the response suggests
What’s your Wii cable setup like? I was using the hyperkin Wii2HDMI cable and was having the same problem.
I play retro games so I had this problem at first but my solution was one of these. I run all of my old consoles to an AV switcher which outputs to a composite splitter. One set of cables is run to my crt tv, the other pair is ran to that AV2HDMI, which is then fed to the elgato. You could forego the splitter altogether, but I like playing on the CRT for authenticity purposes. It’s probably not the best quality just blowing it up like that with the HDMI “upscale”, but at least it was spitting out a signal the elgato liked.
It's not a mind blowing upgrade in quality, but it was definitely worth it in my opinion. That's why I mentioned the upgrade.
I went from an rca to cable converter, to an rca to hdmi converter and didn't notice a difference in quality, but after using the wii to hdmi converter, I found it to be a noticeable difference.
I used to buy games from the nintendo store, and that's where I found the best jump in quality, Mario Kart and Yoshi's Story both had good improvements. I'll see how it does with some of the other games and send you some pictures if you'd like.
You would need some sort of device which can play digital videos and can output to analog.
Personally I use a raspberry pi for this as I like the look of certain era videos on CRTs better than modern TVs but there is no reason I couldn't connect it to a VCR instead.
Edit: Something like this would probably be easiest if you aren't an AV enthusiast / retro nerd.
This should work for you
HDMI to RCA,HDMI to AV, GANA 1080P HDMI to 3RCA CVBS AV Composite Video Audio Converter Adapter Supports PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop HDTV DVD-Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_xLaXAb97YY5SY
Something like this that takes an HDMI signal and converts it into Composite: https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=sr_1_3?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1550462326&sr=1-3&keywords=hdmi+to+composite+converter
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There are better options as well but this is a basic model that should at least give you an idea of where to start.
I guess you could try something like this, fairly inexpensive to try out.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hdmi+to+composite&amp;qid=1573773587&amp;s=electronics&amp;sr=1-4
I'm not really sure why you'd want to keep using HDMI audio instead of just using on-board, but whatever.
You can just use a box like this to extract the audio out of it. You might need an amp to make your headphones work though, not sure.
You're going to need an HDCP compliant powered converter if you want to go from HDMI to VGA. Something like the following:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003O55U8K
OR
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/
You should look into an Audio Extractor: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNJ6RM?psc=1
Basically a pass through that pulls audio into RCA and optical. You could then just use RCA to 3.5 of whichever works for you! Hope this helps.
That receiver is too old to function to your expectations in a modern system.
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If it's truly your only option, you're going to need an hdmi audio extractor (https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1537397836&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&psc=1), but it's only going to give you 2 channels of audio. It's going to be impossible to get surround sound, the panasonic just doesn't support it from an external source.
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To connect everything, you'll go:
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XBONE to HDMI cable to HDMI IN on extractor
HDMI OUT on extractor to HDMI cable to TV
RCA L/R (white and red plugs) on extractor to RCA Stereo Cable to AUX on Panasonic
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You'd change the source on the panasonic to aux, tune your tv to HDMI 1 or 2, wherever the xbox is plugged in, and you'd have the xbox sound coming out of the panasonic's speakers.
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If you also want to use the Panasonic built-in DVD player, you'll need to buy a component video cable and route those from the component out port on the panasonic to the component in ports on the TV.
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I want to stress again that there are way way better options out there, but if you're really dead set on using this panasonic piece, this will work.
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Between the streaming box, speakers and an audio converter like this. Plus the amount you could sell the monitor for, you’d probably be best just buying a small smart tv.
The Roku Ultra 2016 edition (model 4640) is the last one they made with optical audio port.
https://www.amazon.com/Roku-Ultra-Streaming-Player-Enhanced/dp/B01M05030B
You could also use a hdmi audio splitter thingy like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/
I used to use something like this (https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM) that will split the HDMI video and audio out. HDMI can continue to the projector for video and then you have audio out you can plug into any speakers.
At least. So let's just say HDMI audio splitter and be done.
It’s been a while since I booted up my PS4, but I believe it only allows output to a single device at once. I would suggest not using headphones on the controller. If you’re not using the mic on the headset, you can use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Passthrough-JTD18G-H5CH/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=J-Tech+Digital+4K+60HZ+HDMI+Audio+Extractor+Converter&amp;qid=1565959889&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3
This is what I use for mine, but I don’t use any kind of team chat on the PS4. This allows me to hear all audio from the PS4 without the lag associated with listening to the audio from the OBS stream.
Not sure what you would use if you need the mic
Does your monitor have an audio out by any chance? I don't know how likely it is since it doesn't have speakers, but it's worth checking. If it does, you could just run a cable from your monitor to your speakers.
If not, your best best is to get an HDMI audio splitter like this one.
DD+ Atmos is supported by the TV and Amazon over ARC however your receiver if its quite old may have trouble with this format. On paper the receiver should ignore the Atmos metadata and simply play a Dolby Digital Plus stream as is.
Optical does not support DD+ Atmos which is why it works, it's DD, DTS and PCM stereo.
Check for any firmware updates to the Denon, check the manual or try contacting them and asking if the DD+ support can be disabled on the AVR.
As to work rounds, there are HDMI-ARC audio extractors you can buy, these may or may not support DD+ so you can filter that format out effectively.
Get a FireTV stick and plug in into the receiver directly in the hopes it outputs either PCM 5.1 or DD 5.1.
Unfortunately LG do not offer anything other than ARC, pass-through (eARC) and PCM (stereo), you cannot disable DD+ on the TV as far as I'm aware.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-Support/dp/B074HHSJVN
That is the closest you can get. It can pass Dolby Digital or DTS from the HDMI chain to S/PDIF, but it can't convert other formats to the more basics one. Essentially it only decodes, not encodes.
https://www.amazon.com/Luzan-Digital-Decoder-Converter-Optical/dp/B01MS0973G
This might be closer to what you want, it takes a DTS, Dolby Digital, or PCM signal and gives you 5.1 analogue pre-outs.
You could simply buy a used receiver with HDMI that could handle this task for you. It would cost the same as either of these devices.
Probably get an HDMI splitter with audio out. That's what I would do in your case since I already own one.
You can probably get this one:
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-Passthrough/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&amp;qid=1550100863&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
For connecting soundbar to projector this is what I have and works perfectly/voices in sync.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B074HHSJVN?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
Soundbar works perfect for my casual use, if it sounds good to you that's all that matters, can always upgrade later on
I am playing them on the ultrawide and using this to output the sound to the SPDIF input on the usb sound card
Not all cables are created equal. :) I had to go through 4 or 5 on the "this should work list" before I ended up just getting one of these. Works fine now.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS
I also had trouble with extenders, but recently found a setup that works, and I'm glad I did that versus a box that is bulky (because I route everything up on the ceiling).
This is what worked for me at 10 feet:
Regular 10ft HDMI cable
Cheapish HDMI repeater
USB Extender cable
This is with a 1070 and a Rift Touch.
Yes, I was eventually able to get extensions working by using an HDMI repeater. Here's what I finally settled on that worked for me:
I had previously tried some of the male-to-female HDMI extensions without a repeater from this sub's wiki and those didn't work for me, but this combo did the trick.
I was using a normal 6 footer hdmi..which was working, but the 6 footer..or was it 8 footer display port wouldn't give me a consistent experience.
Now for the oculus, which def needs an extension, i'm using this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
i couldn't find a similar thing for display port. I have heard that dvi to hdmi works well.
Yeah I checked it out again and it's more like $60 to do it correctly @ 16' with a repeater and ceiling mount. Think that $80 - $100 included extending the sensors.
Still it gets to the point that's it's enough money that I would prefer to spend more and have the headset wireless.
Ceiling mount - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A25ZAA3BEH2FFI&psc=1
Repeater - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A316VD12LWIFJT&psc=1
15' hdmi cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5EUD2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
16' usb 3.0 cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0179MXKU8/ref=ox_sc_act_title_5?smid=A21TE5CLHZDYA7&psc=1
25' Braided cable sleeve (not required but will make things look more professional)- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHQNUU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2QY7ED8OFW8FC&psc=1
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I have posted this previously.
Here is what I used to make my extension for my Samsung Odyssey:
HDMI Cable
HDMI Repeater
USB Extension
I saw that part of issue with extensions not working was the lack of an HDMI repeater.
Here is the video that I watched to learn how to build one. Only difference is I opted for 10ft. instead of 15ft.
EXTRA-LONG 15' Oculus Rift Break-Out Cable - IT WORKS!
I have the following with my gtx 970
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01GHL72XS/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008D5EUD2/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DMFB5OK/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
O
You obviously don't need those cables. The Hdmi extender works great even for a cable as long as mine. It should be no problem to get the extra 3ft you want. My setup is completely passive, even the USB cable is not using extra power as the Rift headset doesn't demand much.
I built my extension with passive ten foot cables from Cable Matters, a Redmere Monoprice HDMI cable, a cheap 4k HDMI repeater, and some half inch cable sleeving.
If you buy active cables you can go a bit longer.
USB cables - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C7SA21U HDMI cable - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008D5ETHE HDMI repeater - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS Cable Sleeve - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UHQNUU/
Make sure to properly spread your connections out so you aren't hitting any one of your USB controllers too hard.
This is what I got. I'd suggest you just get the same, plenty of people got this same combo. Keep in mind the HDMI cable is braided and a little bit rigid.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XM1WE0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I ended up with an $11 HDMI repeater based on some recommendations here, and then just used it with an existing 15 foot HDMI cable I had laying around. Works great!
Edit: GTX 1080
The Best Buy vr headset cable didn't work for my rift so I pulled the cables apart and used the 3.0 extension for my second sensor since I was out of the return period. Works perfect for that.
Here's what I got for my headset and the only things I'd recommend for headset extensions:
hdmi cable
hdmi repeater
usb 3 cable
inateck usb 3 card
The usb extender cable wouldn't work with anything besides the usb 3 card for me so I would say just buy it too. Though, I can only plug 2 things into the usb card.
These 4 things solved all my problems though. You can roll the dice on the best buy cord, but there's a decent chance you'll have to buy this stuff after and this way you get 15ft of extension instead of 9.
I use a thicker braided cable, 15 ft, to reduce the likelihood of problems and haven’t had any.
I’ve had lots of USB issues, but that’s a different story.. the HDMI issues I mentioned were with my computer monitor when I was using cheap cables. Having too long of a cable can also cause issues (but in those cases I’ve seen flickering, the green snow was from a bad/cheap cable).
Edit: here’s the exact gear I use
Edit 2: realized my HDMI cable is 15 ft. It’s the USB cables that are 10 ft
I bought an HDMI audio splitter. HDMI goes into the splitter, HDMI-out/audio-out comes out the other side. Then you just plug that audio-out into your audio-in on your PC and you're good to go.
Not that I know of...without an audio extractor or similar.
https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A
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I could be wrong, I am sure someone will speak up if there is a better solution.
DVI is compatible with HDMI and provides the same quality, much better than VGA. Just need a cheap adapter. DVI won't carry audio, BUT there are some specialized adapters that split the audio and video out of HDMI and give you an audio port. https://www.amazon.com/iArk-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B01I9JG70A
Buy this and this. The first device will take HDMI in and let you output through HDMI back to the TV and RCA where you will hook up the second device to pair BT headphones to.
Ah damn that's unfortunate. Hmm well you could try an aux cable from the controller like was suggested, but I have a feeling this would not be lossless audio. I'm not sure though.
To get audio from the HDMI to an Audio Interface, I think you'd need something like this: https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A
The PS4 HDMI would go into the HDMI-in port on that device. Then you'd have another HDMI cable going from the HDMI-out port on the device, to your monitor/tv. And you could use either the optical slot (labeled SPDIF on that product), or the L/R slots (I think the optical would be simpler/more straightforward) to go from the device to your Audio Interface.
That should be lossless - just make sure in the PS4 settings that it's set to output PCM, as was pointed out below.
I am having trouble finding sound bars with two hdmi ports in my budget, a lot of them have only one but im not sure how id get video to my tv with just one... would something like this work? https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=sr_1_14?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1538406234&amp;sr=1-14&amp;keywords=hdmi+sound+bar
https://www.amazon.com/iArkPower-Extractor-Splitter-Optical-Supports/dp/B01I9JG70A
This should do the work, there might be other cheaper options available but this had decent reviews.
I don't want to promote something, but in my other post, I mean things like this product:
https://www.amazon.com/Extractor-Splitter-Output-Optical-Digital/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1488136542&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=audio+extractor&amp;refinements=p_72%3A1248879011
This one should work if you have 1080P and a SPIDF surround system. Not sure how it will handle 2/4k. You can find other ones. I'm coughing up a little more money for a future proofed one.
You need this. Before you get upset remember ever version except PC needed a slight workaround for audio.
Audio signal needs to be converted from digital to eliminate lag.
Are you wanting to plug the Switch into your PC to capture the video somehow, or do you just want to play on your monitor?
The monitor should work fine in place of a TV -- just plug the HDMI cable into it like you would any other display. HDMI can pass audio too, so if your monitor has built-in speakers, it should work seamlessly. If you want to use separate external speakers, you'd need something like this to split out the audio and be able to plug the speakers in.
If you're actually talking about plugging the Switch into your PC, that would require an HDMI input on the PC which isn't all that common. They're mostly used for capture cards. If you're wanting to stream your gameplay or something, it would probably work, but I'm not sure exactly what equipment you'd need.
I think you're out of luck on the dock itself, but something like this may be able to help you
Buy [this](HDMI Audio Extractor Splitter, One HDMI Input to HDMI Output + Optical SPDIF and RCA L/R Audio Out https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01I9JG70A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DKLZzb7M8448H).
I personally do not know if this work but technically it should. Might need another hdmi cable if you don't have one to go from the converter box to your monitor.
Then buy [this](C&E 30S1-01260 2 x RCA Male, 1 x 3.5mm Stereo Female, Y-Cable 6-Inch Gold Plated Connector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I23TTE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5MLZzbS8E0JJG). Then you should be able to plug in your headset.
You can try something like this. Then you can get whichever unit you want. I recommend the Shield.
I can actually help with that. You will need one of these.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I9JG70A/
Not sure why they recommend that one since it seems to only output 2 ch stereo audio. I just bought this last week for a different reason and it works great. There's also 4 way splitters to hook up all your HDMI devices.
You could save some money by choosing to go with a converter instead.
A pro would be that you could use it with any device that only has component cables. A con would be that it adds an extra layer of 'this could stop working someday.'
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW
This is just an example link, if you dig at all, I'm sure you can find a cheaper device that does the same thing.
Yeah, but it will be upscaled composite video. So like 480i upscaled to 1080p/whatever. Tonnes of stuff on amazon do it, with latency being a factor.
Lots of goggles have composite out over a 3.5mm jack, plug that into this:
RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_mpLjDbS409HW7
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=composite+to+hdmi&amp;qid=1563212100&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Composite+t&amp;sr=8-3
Get this adaptor and an hdmi cable then it should plug into most TVs
Adapters exist for converting composite and component signals to HDMI. They’re all over Amazon. Something like this converter. I used something similar for my 360 since I didn’t have HDMI output on it. For the NES or Atari that used RF adapters I just used an old VCR to convert it to composite signal and then convert that to HDMI. Probably super inelegant, but it worked.
For the capture card, I use the Avermedia Live Gamer Portable 2 with my Mac Pro and it works just fine. That would seem to me to be the simplest way, convert it to HDMI and then just use a standard capture card.
RCA / AV to HDMI converter.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/
Doesn't look great but is the cheapest solution.
This RCA switcher will take care of your RCA needs. I would then run the output from the RCA switcher into this [RCA to HDMI converter] (https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510170964&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=rca+to+hdmi&amp;psc=1).
Then maybe you'd want to consider picking up 2 of these 5x1 HDMI splitters. Just make sure you keep everything labeled so you know what's what. Hope that helps!
I have one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495980818&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=av+to+hdmi
And it works pretty well with a few caveats:
Aside from those things, it's pretty great for the price. I mean NES with it doesn't looks as good as the AVS, but it's a lot better than composite and a pretty good compromise I think.
So, this is going to be somewhat of a silly setup, but you’re going to need an RCA splitter, an RCA to HDMI converter, and an HDMI splitter. I’ve used several hdmi splitters in the past and they’ve all been fairly solid, but I can’t vouch for the RCA splitters. Speaking from experience, the trickiest part is getting proper 5.1 audio if you have a surround sound system as most TVs only pass stereo. But, if you’re using the TV’s speakers you’ll be just fine anyway. Not sure what your budget is, but here’s something to get you started:
AuviPal 4-Way RCA Switcher 4 in 1 Out Composite Video L/R Audio AV Selector Box for DVD VCR VHS/AV Receiver/Game Consoles
and...
RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD
Then as many male to male RCA cables as you need.
Finally the hdmi splitter:
HDMI Switch 4k,GANA Intelligent 3-Port HDMI Switcher,Splitter, Supports 4K, Full HD1080p, 3D with IR Remote
Any noteworthy differences between that one and the more popular RCA ones like this one?
This should just make life easier for me shouldn't it? Direct AV to HDMI and I should be good to go?
Here's one example: RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zhS4Cb8F61RJH
According to the reviews you have to do some tweaking of the tv settings to get it to look right, so if you're happy with the way it looks now, it may not be worth the hassle. It would probably be more practical for larger TVs where the pixels would look severely stretched, but for the one you have, you're probably good.
yes, it is possible, but stupid.
You can use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW
then run that HDMI out to something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Capture-Broadcast-Streaming-Grabber-Converter/dp/B0779ZJZX3
and then something like OBS to configure that input as a 'camera' source.
but don't do it that way. just use an emulator. https://www.emulator-zone.com/nes/nestopia
emulators are legal, ROMs probably aren't
If you need the controller, you can purchase something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-suily-Joystick-RetroPie-Emulators/dp/B07M7SYX11
For the SNES you can use the old cable coax line. For the gamecube and N64 look into something like this adapter
Edit: wrong link
LPT2: Get one of these things.
Never know when you'll have a chromecast and an old tv. Or vice versa.
I apologize for digging up an old post but I've been going through a number of tutorials to get one of these setup for me and thought you might be able to give me some feedback (maybe you ran into these issues already or know what else to try)!
Currently, I have hyperion uploaded, already uploaded my configuration (as well as the grabber info) to the json config file but I can't see to get it to grab a screenshot. Below is my putty command window (so you can see what I'm typing in, maybe I'm setting something up incorrectly):
&#x200B;
https://postimg.cc/PC6ZHWwt
&#x200B;
It appears to recognize the grabber I'm using (which I tested above), the PS4 video is coming through correctly on the splitter (as I can see it going back into the TV so I assume it's also making it to the AVI2HDMI I'm using (which I have selected to 1080p to ensure it's not trying to downconvert my signal):
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=avi+to+hdmi&qid=1555655281&s=gateway&sr=8-3
&#x200B;
Unfortunately, I'm not getting any screengrabs so I can't really get much further in the process without it. I thought I'd post here and see if you had any suggestions. Thanks!
RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA Composite CVBS AV to HDMI Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IIxMDbG178G62
You could get a RCA to HDMI converter and just run it through your HDMI input, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5HJOAbV840D7C
yeah the TV has the component cable ports but with the N64 just having AV we tried plugging it in as it should be. i got my PS2 to work on it with just AV but for some reason the 64 didnt. so the cables im getting are Analog to HDMI converters. I haven't got them yet so i dont know if it will work at the moment. The cables i ordered
*edit adding the link to the cables i bought
The main thing that really pisses me off is deceptive marketing. I don't think my coworkers are liars, but one of them tried to sell my dad a premium HDMI cable. It seems that home theater employees are easily deceived by bullshit, because another one of them was buying platinum wiring for his own system. In addition, I was told that I would be laughed at if I asked them if we sold some device that can convert analog inputs to HDMI. That's asinine, because I know full well that they are not fundamentally incompatible or complex to make, and that they even exist, from this piece of crap to the Framemeister.
Upselling isn't terrible, but there's a reason everyone hates (or at least hated) GameStop and their stupid PowerUp rewards cards
I was just able to pull it off using this HDMI to AV with this.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_rsWSDb41NW0AZ
Then using this to convert AV to VGA
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CF51NK/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_RyWSDb2RHN4F1
Not the best setup, but it works for now
My monitors are old, so i needed an HDMI to DVI cable to connect to this and from there just into my PC. Works great though.
I bought this to use my n64 on a 4k tv and it works RCA to HDMI, GANA 1080P Mini RCA... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L8GG6PW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
More accurately, I want to power this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GG6PW/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=AABOA797ZZQ73&amp;psc=1
using this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YMZ4LD/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A294P4X9EWVXLJ&amp;psc=1
what do you think?
I bought an adapter off Amazon that seems to work pretty good in my opinion. I use it to play n64 games on my 70" 4k and it doesnt seem to "stretch" it out or distort it.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01L8GG6PW/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
N64 would be a good fit for you. It uses Composite(Red Yellow White cables). So you would need a HDMI converter. I recently bought a cheap one from Amazon to last me until my Frameister came in. For $14, it was very fast response time up scaling to 1080 on my flat TV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GG6PW/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Protip: Get an N64 Everdrive V3 to play all N64 games(even fan translations/hacked versions). You can still collect for the system but having all games on the console ready to go is nice if you don't want to hassle with changing carts.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GG6PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This is what I have used. One downside is it needs it's own power supply, but works pretty well. Just connect the HDMI out here to your existing capture card and the composite plugs to your console.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9LQDBB/
I have an old CRT TV that only has an RF input connection. Would I be able to use an HDMI to composite adapter like this and a composite to RF converter like this to connect it to my PC? I understand RF is the worst video connection, but will it look acceptable? Will there be any problems with either 240p or 480i inputs?
OP will need something like this along with a set of RCA cables to plug into the TV https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8KaXAb1YY9TW0
I would upgrade the TV or buy some cheap LINK to convert HDMI to composite. My family all has Rokus and they work well for us. Some Rokus have composite out I think. You could do a nvidia sTV and use that as a Plex Server and Client.
This: https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB
Plus This: https://www.amazon.com/RCA-Compact-RF-Modulator-CRF907A/dp/B0014KKV7W
And I assume you have a cable to plug into the adapter on the back of that TV? If not, I can try to find one
Following up my other comment. It would not probably be possible to put a modern movie at its full resolution onto a VHS tape. While you could put a video of that high resolution on a VHS tape, in theory, VHS tapes are not long enough to hold a full length feature film at that resolution.
So you would basically be altering the resolution and quality down to roughly about that of an old pre-HD tube-based television.
But there's no reason why you couldn't do it. You'd probably need one of those NTSC converter boxes, or you'd need some kind of downconverter (like this one) between the original movie player (eg PC or blu-ray player) and the VCR.
Heck, I wonder if there's an industry (however tiny) for VHSified versions of modern movies for playback by people who have really old technology.
I just got a CRT tv to play old console games on. I'd like to connect my pc to it so that I can stream old anime on a CRT for added nostalgia. Would it be better to buy an HDMI to RCA converter like this? Or should I buy an old GPU with S-Video output like this?
Here's my parts list in case it matters.
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1543417879&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+rca
Yes. The adapter would need to be one with some actual hardware, not just a cable with different jacks on both ends.
not used them myself, but something like this should do you.
Also it would look like absolute arse.
Comparable Amazon versions are $10 and up.
It actually wasn't that expensive (especially compared to an all-in-one solution):
HDMI splitter|$12|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MT12OQA/|
:--|:--|:--|
USB capture card|$16|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WSAWZ1M/|
HDMI to RCA|$12|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W9LQDBB/|
5-port USB charger (optional, was $17 when I bought it)|$20|https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00UN1LM7Q/|
There cheaper options than a receiver.
I use these:
Musou 1080P HDMI Audio Extractor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06XDNJ6RM/
SMSL SA50 50Wx2 TDA7492 Class D Amplifier
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC/
You can keep this setup pretty portable and hook it up only when needed.
Plug in whatever HDMI source you use (fire TV/ Chromecast) to the Musou. This removes any PCM audio, and sends it to the analog outputs. Send this to the SMSL, to amplify it to your speakers.
The HDMI video continues on to the projector.
Key part is getting power to wherever you are going to run all of this. I also use a long, multi-ended extension cord and power the projector too.
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM
I think you will need a HDMI audio splitter like that. PS4 HDMI -> splitter HDMI in, splitter HDMI out -> TV, splitter RCA audio -> PC line-in.
Can use an HDMI audio extractor to convert to optical, here's a cheapo one that looks alright https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1549817963&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor+optical&amp;psc=1, then run optical into the Z906.
You want this:
Musou HDMI Audio Extractor,HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink(SPDIF) + RCA(L/R) Stereo Analog Outputs Video Audio Splitter Converter Support 1080P,Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZAruzbER8XCMG
Yes, you can cast to it just like an audio.
I was looking at that. I honestly have no clue how to set it up, so let me know if this is how it works.
PS4 connected to HDMI Audio Extractor w/ HDMI
HDMI Audio Extractor connected to TV w/ HDMI
Then I just plug the optical in to it, and it works normal?
Also, Would this one work?
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497019912&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi%2Baudio%2Bextractor&amp;th=1
Musou 1080P HDMI Audio Extractor HDMI to HDMI + Optical Toslink(SPDIF) + RCA(L/R) Stereo Analog Outputs Video Audio Splitter Converter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_i_91i5BbDQS3NXN
Also, after some research into that device you mention I found this, if I'm just gonna use this maybe I should go deep in and get myself a larger one and just hook up all of my systems via HDMI to one of these, and output the audio via the TOSLINK
PC Line-Out into the mixer. Get an HDMI audio/video splitter that let's you split the two. Take that sound out into the mixer.
edit: Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1501006051&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio%2Fvideo+splitter
Headphones? https://gaming.stackexchange.com/questions/144410/can-i-use-my-regular-3-5mm-headphones-with-a-ps4
That's one option. Of course, that means that you could also connect external speakers to the same jack.
You could purchase an HDMI audio splitter/extractor. https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536435271&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter&amp;psc=1
... since that is what you want to do. You want to extract the audio from the HDMI cable, and redirect it to a set of speakers.
Otherwise, since that monitor is not made in any way to provide audio support (there is no audio extractor in the monitor to separate the audio from the video in the HDMI), this is really all you have for options. Namely, using the audio out port on the controller, or purchasing an extractor and connecting your speakers to it.
https://www.amazon.com/Musou-Extractor-Optical-Splitter-Converter/dp/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1527354845&amp;sr=1-1-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&amp;psc=1
I just looked up the product on Amazon and they claim it does. Is it possible that they can mention that but it's not 100% the case and I would need to get a different converter? Sorry for the weird question back, I'm not an expert at this at all. I put the link to the product below as reference.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XDNJ6RM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
HDMI extractor. It will pull the audio off the hdmi and send it to toslink or RCA. Just as an example
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-Support/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=3RWSD2KQNNRQN&amp;keywords=hdmi%2Bextractor&amp;qid=1558736180&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=Hdmi%2Bextra%2Caps%2C235&amp;sr=8-1-spons&amp;smid=A2IX3RNQE846HA&amp;th=1
Looks like this is a problem that is tied to specific TV's?
Looks like the common solution seems to be installing one of these?
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B074HHSJVN?th=1
Dumb question: could I use something like this to connect my optical cable from my soundbar to the HDMI arc input in my tv?
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Application-Function/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=nav_ya_signin?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00YHS5E6Q&amp;pd_rd_r=30821704-7b44-4609-9942-24a107a8eea6&amp;pd_rd_w=OFsAM&amp;pd_rd_wg=CcDGy&amp;pf_rd_p=21bbdc4d-873b-48c5-a88a-70e643377944&amp;pf_rd_r=Q421NNMPRMF734SP5CGR&amp;refRID=Q421NNMPRMF734SP5CGR&amp;th=1
I bet the issue is the TV
Try skipping the TV altogether then it comes to audio and get the audio directly from your source
Get this or something similar J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output Supports HDMI 2.0, 18Gpbs Bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 [JTD18G-H5CH] https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_CrFRDbYG2MVSAc
Ok this seems to be a stubborn problem. Short of physically opening up the projector and removing the speakers, here is a nuclear option:
Buy an HDMI audio extractor, such as this one:
J-Tech Digital 4K 60HZ HDMI Audio Extractor Converter SPDIF + 3.5MM Output supports HDMI 2.0, 18Gpbs Bandwidth, HDCP 2.2, Dolby Digital/DTS Passthrough CEC, HDR10 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074HHSJVN/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EVi.AbQY2K1TN
Connect the audio out of the audio extractor to your sound bar. Connect the HDMI out of the audio extractor to your projector. Then mute the volume on the projector if needed.
Your HDMI audio extractor is not 4k compatible.
EDIT: Look at this one, for example: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-Passthrough/dp/B074HHSJVN/
For our installations, we typically use something like this (it passes 4k 60fps), note the switch for 5.1 or PCM. We use a lot of J-Tech stuff, all their stuff is good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HHSJVN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Or you can buy this from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074HHSJVN/
and skip all the programming. works great. I have no issues with AC3 and DTS audio now.
I just bought one of these for that very reason and it works flawlessly: http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETCSHP-Composite-Converter-Windows-10/dp/B003NS0UUQ
My only complaint is that the plug cord is too short.
There are $40-$50 upscalers which do a sort of adequate but somewhat laggy and unavoidably glitchy job of upscaling 240p based on the erroneous assumption that it's 480i. But they're literally dumping half of all video data from the get-go, by processing it as a 30Hz per scanline signal. And that starting point is your best case scenario. Still, upscalers like this one are adequate to the purposes of some players.
Even more so, most recent Samsung TV models do a pretty adequate job of erroneously processing 240p in a way that at least gets a 30Hz colour image on screen. But obviously, it doesn't make much sense to buy a $1000 screen in order to process a muddy Composite video signal in an only half-broken way, when you could spend $400 to upscale much better signals, from every console you own, and do it perfectly, on any screen at all.
You may want to give this a try:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETCSHP-Composite-Converter-Upscaler/dp/B003NS0UUQ
It will convert your S-Video out to HDMI, and do its own upscaling so you're not relying on the Xbox or TV. I haven't used it, but reviews look pretty good (and better than other models Amazon stocks).
It may not be perfect, but if Comcast is charging $9/month for HD and you're happy with SD, you'll get a 5 month return on investment for the $40 converter box.
So it's Cable -> (coax in) Comcast box (S-Video Out) -> (S-Video In) Converter (HDMI Out) -> (HDMI In) Xbox One (HDMI Out) -> (HDMI in) TV
Hope that helps.
any experience with Portta converters?
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETCSHP-Composite-Converter-Upscaler/dp/B003NS0UUQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416095993&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=framemeister
[This one] (http://www.amazon.ca/Portta-PETCSHP-Composite-Converter-Windows-10/dp/B003NS0UUQ).
I have the N64 hooked up with composite to it right now, I'm waiting in the mail on an S-video cable as the current S-video cable I have now is terrible.
It's a pretty sweet scaler, but you dont have to necessarily buy from the link I sent you. It appears to be a china model and the "porta" is just the name of the reseller. You can buy the exact same box for a little less from other sellers. Just make sure the picture of the box is the same.
It has 4 modes.
-Compostie 720p
-S-Video 720p
-Compostie 1080p (What I'm currently using)
-S-Video 1080p
Modern tvs are terrible at displaying standard definition content. Laserdisc players were often optimized for tube tvs. Even a cheap upscaler (just like what you get in an upscaling dvd players) might help some with the picture quality.
I got a madcatz s video cable http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000C88IB?keywords=madcatz%20s%20video&amp;qid=1451775523&amp;ref_=sr_1_1&amp;sr=8-1 ...the only one without a yellow cable I can find is this http://www.amazon.com/Gamecube-S-Video-Cable-Bulk-Packaging/dp/B000P6R46W/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451775184&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=s+video+bulk
Also forget to mention, I ordered the converter today just to try it out, its this http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETCSHP-Composite-1080p%C2%A0-%C2%A0Not%C2%A0-%C2%A0Windows%C2%A010/dp/B003NS0UUQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1451775247&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+converter+porta
Does your TV have no RCA ports? Incredible.
You can always get something like this.
If you have a RCA (yellow/red/white) output on the cable box, you can get a converter. I did it with Dish network. Had a sd output but only had a HD tv with zero rca inputs. So had to convert that signal to get it in the tv via HDMI. This is the box I got to do it with. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003NS0UUQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
If you are on a budget, my choice for a converter was Portta RCA to HDMI converter
Its not the best but its sufficient from my experience. Supports both NTSC and PAL, S-video, RCA and it has a button to toggle between upscaled 720p and 1080p. Input lag isnt too bad (I remember it was about on par with most TV's internal converters) and artifacts are not bad and mostly only relevant with PS2 games. Keeping the option at 720p might help out a little bit.
Minuses would be that the power cord is short and the sound conversion is only serviceable. I connect the sound jacks directly to speakers/amplifier.
This box also directly stretches to 16:9, so if that bothers you, you either want to squeeze it back on the TV side, or just ignore it.
My first piece of advice with all of this is to take your time to understand the basics. All of this isn't that hard to understand; it just takes a little time. If you really want to RGB mod your consoles to get the best picture then it is going to be expensive. Some consoles, such as the Genesis, early model SNES systems like the SNS-CPU-GPM-02, Sega Saturn and Playstation one output RGB natively so they don't have to be modded. Others like the NES and and N64 require RGB mods. This site is a really good starting point: http://retrorgb.com/index.html. You could also use s-video instead of RGB scart. S-video is better than composite and most consoles output s-video.
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It seems that you are confused about scart and RGB. RGB is the signal being output by the console and scart is the cable used to carry that signal. If you want to connect your system outputting RGB via scart to a CRT with component input, then you need a scart to component transcoder like this one, https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO. A transcoder simply coverts the signal and does not change the resolution or refresh rate and there should be no loss in picture quality.
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So it appears that you are trying to RGB mod your SNES? If you have an early model SNES then you don't need to mod it. You don't need an official Nintendo scart cable; you can use a generic one. If you have a later model SNES such as a 1-chip version or SNES mini then the RGB mod you linked to is what you need. You have to keep in mind though that even though the RGB mod kit on that site is $29, it would cost $65 for them to install it. Then you still have to buy a scart cable (maybe $10?) and a scart to component transcoder (at least $50) to connect to your CRT.
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The cheapest option would be to just get a used Wii, softmod it and play that on a CRT. Wii can output component and you can get a good third party component cable for $10 or less. Retroarch Wii can run retro games in their native resolutions and it looks just like games running on the original systems. You would also need an SD card to run your games off of but those are cheap. This option might cost you $60-70 but that is much better than spending hundreds of dollars if you went with the other options.
I'm using this converter https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO I'm not sure, how can I tell? Also should I buy higher quality cables?
I just read through the original post and the comments following and am confused. If the TV in question has HDMI, component (NOT composite aka RCA aka yellow/red/white) and S-Video, then it most certainly does accept RGB natively, as component is literally plugs for Red Green and Blue, separately. According to a list of specs for the model mentioned (here), the unit supports both component and composite.
Without modding anything, the highest video quality for the NES will be composite, no matter what converters you hook them up to, as you're only changing the base video format (composite) into a compatible signal, not improving it in any way. Similarly, for the SNES and N64, S-Video is going to be the highest quality video without modding. The Dreamcast does have a VGA cable available, but you're going to be out some money for an adapter box to move the analog VGA signal to a digital HDMI one. In my opinion, that money would be better spent buying a SCART to composite adapter, as the SNES, Genesis & Dreamcast all have SCART cables available and SCART, while not quite as crisp as component, is a form of RGB and would look great on your TV; here is an example of such a converter. The PS2 has had component cables available for it for years, so you just need to pick up a set; they're usually cheapest when purchased as a generic set for multiple systems--mine is for PS2/Xbox/360.
Note that the N64, while compatible with the SCART cable used for the SNES, won't output SCART/RGB signal without some internal modification. Without modding, you're stuck at S-Video as your top end video quality on it.
Hope this helps!
Do you have a SCART to YUV/component transcoder, if so, which one, and as a follow-up, do you have any issues with any particular system?
Trying to judge this guy, as I've seen it recommended before: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO
No problem! Happy to see someone with the same set. For GC, that link I posted, is being played through my Wii with OEM component cables and looks fantastic. No need for $250 cables (unless you value the gameboy player option for 480p). Everything else of mine is mostly RGB modded and then fed into this tube with a ShinbowSB2340 converter. Prior to the Shinybow I had that generic or CSY clone converter with adjustable pots and it looked really good as well. My 3DO is on S-Video and I'm pretty happy with the image and as for my NES, I refuse to play anything until I get the damn thing modded for RGB! (one of my only consoles I still haven't done yet). I managed to get a Japanese top loader version for the mod since they're more reliable and use the familiar nintendo a/v out connector (unlike the N.American top loader which doesn't use the same connector). SNES(1 CHIP) & Genesis are excellent native RGB consoles, all you would need are the cables and a component converter. Below is a list and info of some of the hardware I am either currently using or have used in the past and would recommend. Don't be overwhelmed, if you'd like to see the absolute best image you can provide this set you can just start with a simple RGB scart cable for a console that has RGB natively, and a basic SCART to Component converter. Just remember some converters don't handle the audio.
I have used one of these for a long time (link below). Picture is great and it's worked with everything I've thrown at it. Snes, genesis, Saturn, rgb modded n64. It produces a stunning picture on my 36 inch trinitron over component. Not sure how much justice it would do, but I can post some pictures of it in action if you're interested. It's about half the price of the other suggestion as well, it doesn't do audio though, you'll have to make sure you get the scart cables with audio breakouts. When you get it, you may have to open it up and adjust some of the pots on the board to get the color just right, just need a small screwdriver to turn the dials, takes all of 5 minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_7DRZAb4TRV7R8
Without modding, all you can do is use Composite, seeing as there's no S-Video on your TV. If you're not opposed to modding, the site retrorgb.com has links to a modding service to add RGB to an N64, which can then be converted to Component with a device like this: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
I use this exact one.I had to open it and tweak the potentiometers because the colors were slightly off but otherwise it works very well.
I posted here before about this but didn't have an image at the time showcasing the issue. I imagine seeing what's going on can better help you guys identify the problem.
I'm attempting to use a scart cable on my model 1 genesis, and run that through a ypbpr converter to display it on a digital tv. I'm using this converter: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?keywords=scart+converter&amp;qid=1558425306&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-5
As well as retro gaming cables model 1 genesis rgb scart cable and a hd retrovision ypbpr component cable.
This fella?
Which SCART to Component box did you order? I got one as well and had to mod a headphone out jack to it for sound because it only did video. This powered splitter looks like it would be a good one, if a little overkill, but it's only about $35 USD. This switcher will automatically switch to whatever device is powered on.
Consoles to Hydra, Hydra to splitter, splitter to component box and Framemeister then to the TVs.
I don't currently use this setup, but if I did I'd probably start here.
P.S. if you ordered one of these and don't want to deal with modding the thing, I'd recommend using this adapter to get sound.
RGB is hard.
I can vouch for these:
SPECIALTY-AV SCART to Component Video Converter for Sega, Genesis, Atari
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_nCoPDbV9X23ZZ
You can get them on eBay too.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_bTjPzbP607Z43
https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk
Thanks a lot for the suggestion. Still trying to get my head around how these things even work. Currently using csync RGB scart. Seems like it's a bit of hassle, but definitely not too ridiculous. I was hoping there was some way to extract the image directly from the monitor without having a horrendous mess of cables, but there isn't.
I found an explanation from the guys who run the ESA speedrunning event, if anyone is interested:
"Here are a couple of more resources where you can read up on RGB capturing:
https://blz.la/rgb/
http://retrorgb.com/
http://retrogaming.hazard-city.de/
During ESA2014 we used a couple of different scalers. Initially we wanted to used several XRGB minis, but that plan fell through. So we used these in combination:
CM-393 (also known as Centaur Pro): A SCART to HDMI scaler. Will only work with NTSC consoles. In the case where we wanted to catpure PAL sources, we had to run the video signal through a DVD-recorder to conform the signal to proper PAL. PAL60 will also have to go through a DVD-recorder. For that purpose we had several KiSS DP-558 units available.
We also used Cypress CP-255i: A more high-end scaler, basically plug and play. But does not have an input for SCART. For those cases we had Sync Strikes. Or SCART (RGB) to YUV converters. http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
Seriously, those RGB to YUV have saved our asses more than once. It's a great utility. Works just fine for hooking up your retro consoles to a PVM or a TV with only component inputs. (Assuming it accepts 240p).
As for the future. We opted for a solution which would allow us to stick to one scaler. We went for the Extron DVS-304. This model has been discontinued but can be found in Ebay. This little beauty accepts anything analog. And you should be able to score one for less than 100$.
Since you can get scaled RGBHV output, it's very easy to replicate the output to any source. Which might not be very helpful for personal streaming, but it is godlike for marathons.
There is still a model in production Extron DVS-304 DVI.
tl;dr: There's no easy solution. But SCART (RGB) is nothing more than Red + Green + Blue + Sync. "
This might be your simplest solution: https://www.retrogamingcables.co.uk/SCART-breakout-adapter-for-composite-and-s-video
That will give you an RGB video signal for the CRT, and S-VIDEO for the Elgato's A/V in.
If you want better quality than S-Video for the capture, then you need to first use a matrix switch to split the RGB signal. I would recommend either the gscartsw or an Extron Crosspoint for that.
Once split, you would then need to convert that second RGB output signal into a video format that the Elgato can understand.
If you want to use the Elgato's YPbPr (YUV) component input, you can try and run the signal through one of these: https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
If you want to use the Elgato's HDMI input, then run the RGB signal through an X-RGB mini "Framemeister", or alternatively the Open Source Scan Converter (OSSC).
If your Trinitron supports it, give SCART -> Component a shot, it's a bit better than S-Video, but requires a special converter. :)
Good thing is though, if you plan to go BVM/PVM someday, the money invested to buy all the SCART cables and a switch to go SCART -> Component -> TV isn't wasted, the only "extra" you need to buy is a SCART -> Component converter.
https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504146961&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=scart+component
But, don't invest the money unless you can afford to go "halfway" to PVM now, there is a quality difference jump from S-Video to Component but it isn't that much, many say you can't even tell. It's no where near the quality difference of going RF/Composite to S-Video.
I get Specialty-AV unit off of Amazon. Works great, can't see any graphical issues and I doubt the Shinybow gets any sharper really.
https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504620554&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=scart+to+ypbpr
I got this one a few weeks ago. People say you need to open it up to adjust colors, but I didn't end up having to do that for mine, so I guess your results will vary. I also had to mod mine for audio pass through, which wasn't too hard, but if you don't have soldering skill you'll need a SCART audio breakout adapter. Once I got it set up, the picture looks fantastic.
https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
they exist, and in my experience work well
VGA is RGBVH at 31hz unlike the consoles RGBS at 15hz. You can however get a RGB/Scart to Component adapter/transcoder. External boxes of these are usually around $50 (https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO). You could probably make one yourself as well for cheaper, if you have the knowhow. You also would need the tv to accept both 240p and 480i signal over component, which most do not.
https://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO
Scart support isn't really a problem in the US. You can get converter boxes that will take scart and convert it to component and you can get scart cables pretty cheap. Something like this will convert let you use component cables from a scart cable:
http://www.amazon.com/SPECIALTY-AV-SCART-Component-Converter-Genesis/dp/B004XSSDPO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426703936&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=scart+to+component
I don't personally have one of those as I have a framemeister, but a friend does and it works well except that it doesn't have audio out from the box but people have modded them to get audio out of it.
The only PVMs I could find for sale in my state were very limited and at the most 9 inches, which is far too small for my liking. I decided to look around for trinitrons which obviously were far more common. Although there is not much info about Australian sets out there, I found a couple of listings that actually bothered to show what ports it had and I found plenty of ones with component. My question is for hooking it up to the TV, will I need a simple cable like this one (25 AUD) or an actual box like this one (I think the price is in USD, making it 65 AUD) Obviously in my currency the price difference is pretty big, so I wanna make sure I don't overspend when I don't need to.
I have just gone through the same thing you are asking. Don't bother with the cheap cables / adaptors on Amazon. They won't work because they are not "converting" anything, rather just re-routing the pins to align with the S-Video side. The reason this won't work is that RGB and S-Video cannot be used in the same SCART head at the same time since they have overlapping wiring (S-Video uses RGB Red and Blue for chrominance as an example). Your SCART head needs to be wired either for RGB or S-Video, but can't be both, and these adaptors expect the SCART head to be wired for S-Video. It will appear to work at first, but will just show black and white.
With that said, there are solutions, but none are perfect.
After failing with the cheap adaptors myself, I started looking for converters / transcoders for converting RGB SCART to S-Video. I first came across this ( http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=53&amp;products_id=226 ) and contacted Shinybow. They initially said they no longer made it, but followed up saying they found some in the warehouse. They shipped some to their US distributor (the above link) and I ordered one. I thought I had my solution, but ran into some more issues. It too produced a black and white pic, but this device does actually convert the signal rather than passing it along. Although I have not been able to 100% confirm this yet, I believe the reason may be that it is converting S-Video under the PAL standard and the the color encoding differs from the NTSC standard here in the US. I also found this ( http://www.js-technology.com/store/product.php?id_product=17 ) which appears to convert the RGB SCART to S-Video SCART, but I have not tried this device and feel it may have the same issue as the Shinybow box.
After all of that, I think I have found the solution, but using 2 different devices. I know one device works since I have it now and have tested it (I sense minimal to no lag, but I need to do a proper test), and the other device is well known in the retro gaming community to work without lag (I should have this device next week). This is what I have planned:
RGB SCART > YpbPr > S-Video
Here is the device I currently use to convert YpbPr to S-Video
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=7114
Here are 2 devices for RGB SCART to YpbPr. One is considered a CSY-2100 clone and has no audio out, so you will need to take that into account. The other is out of stock until July, but is known to be better as I found on http://retrorgb.com/converters.html .
http://www.ani-av.com/shop/product_info.php?cPath=53&amp;products_id=220
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XSSDPO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
When the RGB SCART to YpbPr device arrives next week, I'll post here with an update. Also, both devices will work with light gun games when the composite out is used in place of S-Video for one device or Green is used for the lightgun connector for the other device, at least with a PS1 and PS2 using Guncons.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004XSSDPO/ref=crt_ewc_title_gw_3?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;smid=ADXERLXGK7AZN
I was thinking of getting this and some RGB scart cables for my Genesis/Saturn, any thoughts?
bro, http://amzn.com/B004XSSDPO
and buy a scart cable (before u buy anything make sure your tv supports a 240p signal)
here is adapter i am using.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6/ref=sr_1_1?s=pc&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484869970&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=SY-ADA31025
What do you have in the x16 PCIe slot? Why can't you just replace that with a GPU that has HDMI? I would cost less than that funky HDMI thing on newegg.
You could also get this VGA to HDMI.
There will be a difference in picture quality between VGA and HDMI since VGA is analog and HDMI is digital. What you're looking for seems to be way too expensive to justify the use. However, there are alternatives that could work, I don't have any experience with those types of devices though.
That could be the case but it's noticeably worse than my other monitor which is 1440 x 900. There is also some mouse lag when I go over to the TV. Probably just a bad tv for using as a monitor. I have another actual PC monitor with dvi and vga I think, do you think vga to hdmi converter would work? Like this
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
You could also get VGA to HDMI converter.
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
Might be able to find a cheaper one elsewhere.
You'd definitely need a PCI adaptor, of which one doesn't exist to connect an Xbox AV cable to a tv. You might have better luck with something like a VGA to HDMI adapter - https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
This is the one I was looking at
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
That should work. Looks like this would do the trick: https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
Don't VGA to HDMI things have an audio input? This one does https://www.amazon.ca/Crest-Portable-Converter-Support-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
You haven't mentioned if there's a 3.5mm audio jack in your monitor. If there is, (pretty common with monitors that have their own speakers) then plug a 3.5mm audio cable from your motherboard's onboard audio to your monitor. No need to involve the graphics card in this. Job done.
If you really insist on using your monitor speakers via HDMI and it's the only option, there are 2 ways you can get this done:
Here's one I found on Amazon. I can't speak for its performance but it's the kind of device that should do the job. I've heard it varies. You can look into other converters as well but make sure and verify it's VGA + audio -> HDMI, and not one that is HDMI -> VGA + audio
or
>Some DVI-D sources use non-standard extensions to output HDMI signals including audio (e.g. ATI 3000-series and NVIDIA GTX 200-series).[9] Some multimedia displays use a DVI to HDMI adapter to input the HDMI signal with audio. Exact capabilities vary by video card specifications.
The only way you'd figure this out is by plugging in your monitor using its HDMI port and connecting it into your video card's DVI-D port by using an HDMI to DVI adapter or a cable that's HDMI on one end and DVI-D on the other. You haven't mentioned the video card you're using so I can't tell you if you even have a DVI-D port or DVI-I port which might carry this feature.
https://www.amazon.com/Universal-Converter-Support-Adapter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
is the first result when you google vga to hdmi
I found something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/IO-Crest-Portable-Converter-SY-ADA31025/dp/B006FILNV6
NO idea how well it works though, I've never used one.
One other thing to note, that is not a wide screen monitor really, it's also not full 1080p.
I'm just not for sure how well it would work with an Xbone or PS4.
I'd just like to add my experience with VGA to HDMI converters. I tried this method to get my Dreamcast to connect to my TV. I bought this VGA to HDMI converter, but had no signal.
Later on I tried connecting a laptop to that TV with that converter. No signal.
I then bought this VGA to HDMI converter. I got a signal from my laptop right away.
I didn't try it with the Dreamcast (Mine is happily connected to a VGA monitor) but the moral of my story is that your VGA to HDMI converter might just be faulty. If you have something that outputs a standard VGA signal, like a laptop, you can test it out. If you still get no signal, you should consider returning it and trying another brand.
I don't think the adapter that you link will work for OP. That adapter is HDMI to VGA. These adapters usually only send the signal in one direction.
Pretty sure that OP needs something like this VGA to HDMI active converter.
Go with this one http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1398017066&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr1&amp;keywords=sewell+wii2hdmi+480p
You don't want the adapter to upscale, let your TV do that. Set your Wii to 480P, it will reduce lag but not eliminate it.
As i'm sure you've read your best bet is to either play on a CRT, or play on a low latency computer monitor with the adapter I linked. I have a BenQ RL2455HM + The Above Adapter and it only lags 2ms more than a CRT, to me (and i'd be willing to bet anyone) that is not noticeable.
Good luck
Running it through dolphin is a good idea. If you've got $20 these http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G come highly recommended from Melee players for a more natural crt feeling on HDMI monitors
I've run into the same problem, I started using a Wii AV to HDMI converter to play on my LCD tv. It's supposed to have only 2 ms more lag than playing on a CRT. It makes a huge difference and and my technical game has improved a lot. It was worth every penny. This is the one I got but there's other brands also. Hope this helps.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_0WwTtb1WNAGFYK4Z
you could still get the e300 but buy an hdmi converter like this for $30:
http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/
is this the one your talking about?, i wanna get one but dont wanna dish out 150$
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G
Use this adapter instead https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_su_dp Wii2HDMI is laggy
Sounds like a bad HDMI converter. Return it and grab this one. It's high quality, approved for use in Smash Bros. tournaments, and tested and approved by me! I've had no problems with it, even though it is more expensive than the unbranded Chinese knockoffs.
If you use a Wii to play Gamecube games, you can use a Wii2HDMI converter to make your Wii output 480p over an HDMI cable (after changing from 480i to 480p in Wii settings). Keep in mind that this isn't true HD (which is anything 720p and above), but it should clear up any muddy glare.
For specific Wii2HDMI converters, I recommend the Sewell Wii2HDMI brand (amazon), which has been tested in an article I will link at the bottom. However, it seems to be out of stock as of right now.
You can search "Wii2HDMI" on Amazon or whatever online store you use to find a similar model. I recommend a model that does not perform upscaling, which means finding one that outputs 480p, not 720p. Let the TV upscale the image instead. However, looking through Amazon's catalog, I don't see very many that output unscaled 480p (some don't even specify a truly 480p output), so getting a 720p/1080p upscaling Wii2HDMI converter is fine.
Also, I would recommend a gaming monitor in order to minimize display lag that can ruin timings. For general-purpose gaming, I recommend either the BenQ RL2455HM or the BenQ RL2455HM. Both are the same, except that one is 24 inches and the other is 27 inches.
If you choose a gaming monitor, I also recommend getting headphones or a stereo speaker system. The speakers in my setup is the Logitech Speaker System Z313
Here's a quote for total costs.
Wii2HDMI + {monitor} + Speakers + HDMI cable
If you're looking for details on display lag, you can refer to this Smash Bros article and this Smash Bros post. A Sewell Wii2HDMI + RL2455HM has 2 ms more display lag than a CRT TV, which is almost nothing because a 60fps frame is 16 ms per frame.
pick up the Sewell Wii to HDMI converter. I use it, and there is no noticeable latency. https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G
The Sewell adapter is a bit pricier than the other one linked but it's the best adapter out there if you're sensitive to lag. It's used in conjunction with lagless monitors as a replacement for CRT TVs in Smash Bros. tournaments.
This one worked really well for me
i also just saw this http://www.amazon.com/Sewell-Wii-HDMI-Converter-480p/dp/B0072JP56G/
https://www.amazon.com/Sewell-HDMI-Converter-Latency-480p/dp/B0072JP56G
This one?
I just ordered one for the Wii from Amazon that doesn't scale, and is described as 'low latency'. I was hoping to find something similar for PS2, without having to buy a bunch to test out.
> The Wii U does provide better image quality for Wii games and lower lag/input delay
No, it doesn't. It lags more outing Gamecube/Wii games through the HDMI cable than it does if you use the third party adapter that's widely used since it has almost no input lag: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/
I asked the maker of this and he stated that the WiiU's HDMI lags more.
Ah ok. I saw a couple places saying it could range up to 30ms, which is what I was mainly concerned about. I was looking at this Sewell Wii to HDMI converter which I think would work nicely, I've read good things about it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_7PQMwbXBW4PTZ
I've been doing so much research on this the past couple days and I still feel very uneasy about it all hahaha
OKay, does anyone know if there is a different Sewell HDMI to wii adapter than the one I bought. My monitor has 11ms response time, and all the Benq monitors have 10, yet I hear stories about how lagless a monitor and that setup is, yet I can barely play when comparing it to my CRT. It's not bad, but it's enough that I notice.
CRT are those big ass tv that your grandma probably has laying around. Basically you can't use a flat screen tv cause it has too much lag.
You should get something like this if you want to play using a wii.
You will want a BenQ RL2455HM or any of the 1ms response monitors and this adaptor.
Sewell Wii to HDMI Converter, 480p https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0072JP56G/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_.Kqxwb0CK0T1C
I play with headphones all the time!
Could you elaborate as to why?
EDIT: Ok I can see why now, but isn't the Sewell adapter that I have already doing the converting from analog to digital? So it would seem to me that HDMI => DVI should work.... but it doesn't.
You also need a proper converter to get minimal lag. Either this or this. Both have been tested to work fine (the C&E supposedly looks better though).
This is a suitable workaround to the non-analog issue
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JP56G?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02
(unfortunately it's sold out on Amazon currently, but there may be good enough alternatives if you search around the related items)
Refer to this post
I am using this monitor and this adapter
I used to play on a CRT and I would recommend my new setup to anyone.
hd gamecube cables are just component. you can buy wii component cables cheap, or get one of these. total cost > $75.
I use this and have a 1 ms gaming monitor, and even my stingiest and tech skill orientated friends are happy to play on it.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JP56G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Get this one, it's what different stream setups use:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0072JP56G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
This one is known to not have any lag in the conversion process, so if you have a good gaming monitor, you should be fine.
I use a version of this. I'm sure others will have had issues with these, but so far it's been working just fine on my end.
http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-HDMI2RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ/
Or maybe I should invest in something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-HDMI2RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=pd_sxp_grid_i_0_0 to convert the signal to HDMI ...
No, it comes with adapters for component. I'm pretty sure all you need is an adapter to get the composite connections you need.
Edit: I could have sworn mine came with this. I'll check when I get home. There's also these options from Amazon to convert to HDMI:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-WPETCHP-CVBS-Composite-Converter/dp/B008S7EYW2/ref=sr_1_7?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406574101&amp;sr=1-7&amp;keywords=composite+to+component
http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-HDMI2RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406574101&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=composite+to+component
Edit 2: I was wrong. It only came with the component adapter.
That white box behind it is converting from RCA to hdmi.
Tmvel HDMI2RCACVS 3 RCA Composite Video AV to Mini HDMI Converter for TV/PC/PS3/Blue-Ray DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_Zj8rub0PW5GP0
www.amazon.com/dp/B009A6PJKQ/
I've ran a few of these on different projects. They work OK.
Before I bought a 32" CRT I used one with my old consoles along side a JVC JX-S700, Onkyo TX-NR609 and my Vizio 47"
I will look into this. it appears that its about a 50/50 on these. either people love it or they hate it. and it makes me a little worried that amazon wont carry this one because of complaints. maybe it was just a shitty brand but who knows...
I found this one.What do you think?
You can get separate HDMI converters that will work with any Capture Card. Here are a few from Amazon (I own each of these except the component one, and they work fine):
Component to HDMI Converter
Composite AV to HDMI Converter
HDMI Splitter
The splitter is nice to have, you can use it to enforce compatibility with the PS3, which usually has HDCP issues with capture cards.
Well the Black Magic Intensity Pro used to be the choice, but the company has stopped support for their drivers and such. I couldn't find anything that would update the firmware to have it work properly on a windows 7 computer, it would mess up the capture in many ways that it needed an update. So I'd say personally stay away from the Black Magic Intensity Pro. Only thing I can think of is you'll have to resort in a HD capture device and find analogue to digital converters, this is what I'm currently running, An Elgato HD60 (for current gen and last gen consoles with HDMI) and then a RCA to HDMI Converter this let's me play old NES and PS2 games while the capture card can see the footage.
Why would you choose an AV to RF converter when analogue RF is nearly dead and will reduce the quality.
Using a composite to HDMI converter/upscaler makes much more sense.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-1080P/dp/B009A6PJKQ/
Actually yes it can, technically anything that can be converted to HDMI can be played on a Xbox One including all Playstation consoles, all Nintendo Consoles and any media device you throw at it. It really is the all in one device.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-1080P/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376082378&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=vcr+hdmi
To add even more support:
http://www.amazon.com/Portta-PET0301S-HDMI-Switcher-Support/dp/B00B46XUQU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1376082873&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+switcher
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A6PJKQ/
you can get a usb device for $30ish but the cheaper ones lag making it useless for gaming.
Non-mobile: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426548838&sr=8-1&keywords=av+to+hdmi&pi=AC_SX200_QL40
^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?
I use one of these for my old systems on my new TV.
Just a thought if you wanted to forgo the old TV. Then again some people like the retro on the old TVs!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009A6PJKQ/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Works great!
This will do what you want, but will stretch the picture to 16:9
There's not much you can do about the quality. Those games really didn't age well. As far as the converter, we use this.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009A6PJKQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1426548838&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=av+to+hdmi&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
You can use an HDMI to RCA converter. Something like this: http://amzn.com/B009A6PJKQ
No, you cannot.
However you can separately purchase a HDMI Splitter Example to split the audio from the video off the HDMI output of the Chromecast. The Splitter HDMI output is cabled to the TV and the Splitter Audio output is cabled to your audio amplifier.
This configuration will allow you to listen to the audio over your audio speakers, while watching the video on your TV.
You could get an HDMI audio extractor, instead of fussing around with a USB sound card on the PS4. You'll just plug this inline with the HDMI and it outputs either optical or RCA, which you can then put into a mixer.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518750966&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor
And then you can use this to combine them:
https://www.amazon.com/JUST-MIXER-Audio-DJ-Mixer/dp/B01LPT8JY8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518751052&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=just+mixer
What about something like this? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E
HDMI audio is preferred but it sounds like that isn't an option because your tuner doesn't have any HDMI inputs. If your tuner doesn't support HDMI inputs then try plugging it into your TV and passing the audio out of your TV to your receiver with S/PDIF. Preferably by an optical cable but a coax cable should suffice if optical isn't an option.
If your TV doesn't support that then I don't really know what to tell you. I would recommend an HDMI audio extractor but none of them seem to support Dolby Digital Plus.
If your TV doesn't support passthrough audio then your best bet is getting a Roku 4 (the only Roku with S/PDIF optical audio out).
You might want to look into getting some sort of breakout from your HDMI output from your Kodi source for the audio portion, so that you're feeding 5.1 audio to your amp. Right now, your amp and speakers are only being fed 2.0 stereo audio in analog (basically the lowest common denominator of multi-channel audio).
Something like this would allow you to pipe 5.1 audio to your amp, provided it has an HDMI or optical S/PDIF input. Then again, if your TV has HDMI or (more likely) optical (or RCA digital) S/PDIF audio output, you could feed that into your amp for the cost of the cable alone. This all assumes that your amp is capable of accepting some sort of digital audio at all.
All that to say, however, if your amp is HDMI-enabled, you're probably better off configuring it the way it was intended, and use your amp as a signal selector, and run it as Kodi device > amplifier > TV over the best signal type your devices support (HDMI would be best, followed by YPbPr analog RCA connectors, S-Video, and then composite RCA video. For audio, the hierarchy would be HDMI, S/PDIF [Digital RCA or Optical], 6-channel RCA analog, and finally RCA 2-channel analog)]
Based on what you're saying here, I am guessing your amp is only capable of 2-channel RCA audio, in which case, get yourself a new amp, son! (As you, to your credit, say you plan to do.) If that's the case, save up for a nice HDMI-enabled amp (they basically all have HDMI nowadays). I'm partial to Denon, myself, but they can be on the pricey end of the spectrum.
Edit: And to actually answer your question: until you upgrade your granddaddy of an amplifier, you want to set Kodi to 2.0 audio. Also, consider sending the audio straight from the Kodi device straight to the amp. You'd introduce fewer points of failure/interference that way, and perhaps even lower latency; so it'll be easier to keep the audio and video in sync without fiddling with the settings in Kodi (if that's an issue for you, of course).
This seems to have great reviews on amazon.
According to the reviews, quite a few use it with SONOS to increase format compatibility. The 4K version is 2x the price of the 1080p version. Some TVs have an HDMI out (For Samsungs, it’s a semi-hidden Mode) so you could save and just buy the 1080p version.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
Something like this?
You can use a device like this to give you audio ports to work with, https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
I use the same device to send out audio to a soundbar so i can listen to music with the tv off.
For the office. You just need this:
Yea, I know its dedicated, but it seems like you have the extra wiring. If not, then HDBaseT is your option
Regarding your second monitor, all you need is this:
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
Regarding the double switching, you could do that. Personally, I would just spend the money to do it right. But, It's not my money :) I bought my 6x6 Gefen off of ebay for like $1100 bucks, but it was admittedly a pretty good deal.
Thanks everyone. I'm going to try using this . The comments seem to have a number of people who were in a similar position as myself. Hoping it works.
Here's what I use
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
https://forum.xda-developers.com/shield-tv/orig-development/netflix-amazon-5-1-hdmi-arc-optical-t3894442
Converts newer formats on the fly. I tried a different extector at first and it was finicky. This one has been solid
From this reddit post
https://www.reddit.com/r/PS4/comments/b29dfb/getting_audio_ps4_slim_monitor_has_no_speakers/
, they recommend
https://www.amazon.com/Proster-Extractor-Converter-Optical-Splitter/dp/B07DMCKQBD/ref=sr_1_1
If I had to recommend one (without being able to try it), I would probably go with this one
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sr_1_12
Interesting. Maybe try this- J-Tech Digital Premium Quality 1080P HDMI To HDMI + Audio (SPDIF... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_cDpEAbPAQ5RYY
One of these guys (or something like it) will split the audio out for you
J-Tech Digital Premium Quality 1080P HDMI To HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter (Support Apple TV 4 Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MLaJAbWS72FEY
I guess one option is get an HDMI audio extractor and hook my speakers up to that?
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
If your projector doesn't have an audio out then there are things that will split the audio out of your HDMI signal. Then you can plug in your speakers directly. This was the top result when I googled it but look around. There could be better ones for you.
wait okay so for option three you mean this?
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
so what i could do is pass an hdmi cord from my laptop to this and another cord the other end to the t.v. and then connect it via a digital cable or whatever to the receiver?
Hi mate the best way whoud be to pass it through a " hdmi to hdmi audio extractor". order something like this when you are ordering your hdmi hub. It might be a bit messy cabling wise but will get the job done.
https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1
yikes you could buy one of these perhaps to get an optical output: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
You need an HDMI audio extractor into Toslink or something, then send that to the Modi if you want everything to go through the Modi.
Something like this
https://www.amazon.ca/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
Granted I have a PS4 Pro so it uses an Optical Out, but I got my setup to work differently. I run audio cable from my PS4 to a converter box I got on Amazon then into my 'Line In' on my PC via a 3.5mm jack. This allows me to have both sounds at the same time and I can control the levels via my PC.
For the Slim you could use a HDMI audio extractor into a 3.5mm jack into your PC and get a similar result I think. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E
Mine was a Monoprice unit but I think it’s discontinued. You could try this.
Amazon sells HDMI audio extractors. I've used them before. Works fine. Is HDMI coming out the console?
J-Tech Digital Premium Quality 1080P HDMI To HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter (Support Apple TV 4 Gen) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rB4AzbEW8DPWW
This is what I have used.
I was in the exact same situation as you! I was just about to buy an HDMI 1 in -> 2 out splitter, and an HDMI to VGA converter with builtin cinch output, when I found this little baby
http://www.amazon.de/deleyCON-Audio-Extractor-Splitter-Converter/dp/B00NZYHKHO/
right here. It has one HDMI input and output, as well as analog and digital audio output. It passes the HDMI signal through, while also extracting (but not removing) the audio signal. That was the perfect solution for me, as I already had a DAC at home, so this solution does not compromise audio quality. This device
http://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/
seems to be the US equivalent of this device. Hope this helps!
Bluetooth isn't supported on ps4 at all. You can connect normal wired speakers though a USB sound card or plug them into the headphone jack of the ds4.
Other that that, I think you can buy a hdmi audio splitter to output the sound to speakers. Like this https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Premium-Extractor-Converter/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1537281530&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51OckVyi8YL&amp;ref=plSrch
Found this from a YouTube video. Looks like it works well: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E
J-Tech Digital Premium Quality 1080P HDMI To HDMI + Audio (SPDIF + RCA Stereo) Audio Extractor Converter (JTDAT5CH) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_inPMDbMPNV94D
I tried this with my Asus PG278Q and there was still a terrible buzz. So I got an HDMI audio extractor which works pretty fantastically.
Try an HDMI Extractor from your laptop. Hookup the optical cable with 5.1 pass thru. Then use an HDMI to VGA adapter
Should get what you're looking for.
You need an HDMI audio extractor. The receiver you have will not really help in this setup at all.
The KRP-500M has no audio function at all unless the optional speakers are installed. Do you have speakers on your KRP-500M? Also how are you sending audio to your sound system? HDMI or optical?
With a device like a Roku, ideally what you do is plug HDMI from Roku to audio receiver, and then send video to the KRP-500M via the video out on the audio receiver.
Edit: Does the HT-J4500 even have an HDMI in? I guess it's a blu-ray player with HDMI out only? That's part of your problem. I don't think you're going to be able to get sound from the Roku. I don't think the KRP-500M has any audio outs either, only audio in. You might be able to get things to work with an HDMI splitter like this: https://www.amazon.com/J-Tech-Digital-Extractor-Converter-JTDAT5CH/dp/B00BIQER0E/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=1-1-aGRtaSBhdWRpbyBleHRyYWN0b3I%3D-ac_d_rm&amp;keywords=hdmi+optical+splitter&amp;pd_rd_i=B00BIQER0E&amp;pd_rd_r=a59ec333-434b-477c-a3e8-7b642999f681&amp;pd_rd_w=GQ4Hh&amp;pd_rd_wg=leitC&amp;pf_rd_p=39892eb5-25ed-41d8-aff1-b659c9b73760&amp;pf_rd_r=XGWE6EPHMDYA5EXJY33R&amp;psc=1&amp;qid=1572482045. You would plug the Roku into that, send video to your KRP-500M using HDMI, and audio to your sound system using analog or optical.
In the longterm I would recommend investing in a traditional audio receiver with passive speakers.
An HDMI audio extractor should work, the reviews on Amazon of these two look promising:
J-Tech Digital - Model JTDAT5CH
ViewHD HDMI Audio Extractor
This should do the trick
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
sorry i swear i was on the nintendo switch subreddit. lol my bad.
still what i said applies. make sure its 5.1 dolby and not pcm or some newer format like dolby digital. the only way to get 5.1 on sonos is using dolby .
edit as others mentioned if you're connecting the roku through hdmi to your tv and then the tv to your bar using toslink its possible that your tv doesn't transcode to dolby.
my tv doesn't. i got a toslink switcher + this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1 thing to get the audio and a harmony hub to integrate the mess.
Looks like [this] ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00BIQER0E/ref=pd_aw_sbs_1?pi=SS115&amp;simLd=1) after a quick google search, I'll either get this ons or the vieuwHD one mentioned above! Thanks!
A little more expensive route is to use an adapter - this should do the trick, assuming the projector has RCA or SPDIF inputs. Use HDMI cable from Pi to adapter, HDMI/VGA adapter from this adapter to the projector. RCA cables from this adapter to projector for audio.
This is the one I use with my chromecast: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BIQER0E/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I bought one of these devices http://amzn.com/B00BIQER0E because my TV's (along with most TVs) audio out is only 2 channel, even the digital out.
You can connect FireTV/Chromecast to it, then send one signal to the TV to play, and the audio signal to your surround system and it'll process it correctly.
It actually didn't work for me, but that's the theory.
I use this $30 device. It feels like cheap plastic and it can be a little awkward with the port placements, but it gets the job done just fine.
Like this one: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS ?
would this cable work? https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
Also how would I set this up with a dual monitor display? sorry for late reply I had wisdom teeth removed
There are 2 types of DVI, DVI-I and DVI-D. DVI-I has 4 extra pins that can carry an analogue signal, and a built in converter. DVI-D doesn't listen for analogue signals, it's digital only. You need something like this to convert the signal from analogue to digital.
FTFY
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C93JQXS
If it's just a simple adapter that's not going to work. Newer cards don't use analog signals anymore so the DVI out on your 1080 is a DVI-D - only a digital signal. You'd need a more expensive adapter that will convert the signal. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI-D-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
How were you using it with your 1050 ti? Or were you?
If you want to link your existing monitor to a 10 series NVidia GPU, you're just going to have to budget for something like this. That's just the way it is.
Something like this
passive is just wires to wires. Active has a small processor/ electrical component that is powered and manipulating the signal. In this case turning a digital signal into a analog one.
pictures of signals!
What is your primary monitor, can it take anything over than VGA?
EDIT: you pay slightly more for active adaptors but this should do the trick.
This isn't that expensive:
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
EDIT: not expensive relative to the cost of a new monitor that is.
So I did a bit of looking around and it looks like there is no way to convert VGA to DVI-D with a basic adapter. Normal adapters won't convert signals and since DVI-D is a digital signal and VGA is analog signal it doesn't do anything. Any normal adapter that says VGA to DVI-D is a scam or mislabeled. I didn't even know that before now as I never messed with DVI or VGA much.
Are there any other connection types on the monitor? No DVI of any kind? HDMI? Display port?
If it truly is just VGA then you'll need an adapter that can convert signals from analog to digital like this one, bit expensive just for an adapter but if that's your only option, and you only have VGA from the monitor and nothing else, it's at least cheaper than buying a new monitor.
You can get active adapters for about $25, much less than a new monitor.
Have a look at AMD's R9 390 cards. These are the newest GPU's around the same price point as a GTX 970. The R9 390 only has DVI-D, in which case you can't use a simple connector like you stated, you'd need something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
Agreed, but that would not stop and active conversion of DVI-D to VGA surely? pricey though... https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DVI-D-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.co.uk/StarTech-com-DVI-D-Active-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1482697138&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=StarTech.com+DVI2VGAE+1920x1200+DVI-D+to+VGA+Active+Adapter+Converter+Cable
Also, how much performance would I lose if I chose to use this?
Like, would it be disgustingly bad or would there just be a slight almost unnoticeable decrease in performance?
A DVI-D cable won't help unless the monitor also has DVI. Look for something like this.
http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS/ref=pd_sim_pc_4?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=0MJZMFFZT811ZETH35EK
Are you sure you're using a proper active DVI-D to VGA adaptor? If not, there's your problem - DVI-D doesn't provide the VGA signals required by a passive adaptor.
Your DVI ports are DVI-D and don't support passive adapters to VGA as they are missing some pins. If you want to connect a VGA monitor you will have to buy an active adapter DVI-D to VGA or HDMI to VGA or DisplayPort to VGA.
Actually I think I got it now. This is what I need? https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00C93JQXS/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2OAJ7377F756P&amp;psc=1
You can use this:
CompuLab Display Emulator (fit-Headless) https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uLjlDb5TTS8HT
Works great for me, including with Oculus Virtual Desktop. Remember to enable automatic login.
On Windows you can use a null display dongle to make the computer think you have a second display connected and then share that via remote desktop.
Not sure if the same thing works on Chrome OS. But the dongles are pretty cheap, so it may be worth a try.
edit: one of these https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
They make little HDMI plugs that emulate monitors. They are pretty cheap and will allow you to stream at 1080p. I got this one (below) and it works great.
http://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
I believe you're going to need a device like this that triggers the HDMI port on your laptop to convince the machine that you have another monitor connected. From there, install Chrome Remote Desktop on your Chromebook as well as your Windows laptop and remote in. Pan the view of the remote session so that it only shows the "fake" monitor, and I think it might work kind of well. I can't test it personally, but I think my theory is right. Hopefully someone else can chime in.
Really? Shit I payed full price. How low has this 1080p one gotten?
Hi. I bought this 1080p adapter and it worked fine with my GTX760 and 970. The Steam Link doesn't support 4k - maybe that causes the glitches https://www.amazon.de/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_ySM4wbYWWPA70
I have a 1 _ multiple display splitter, would this work plugged in? https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1486425682&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=edid
>No problem. Just plug in this;
>
>https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Holy crap, I wasn't aware that was available! That actually solves a huge related problem for me, thanks!
something like this?
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497733546&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=dummy+plug
What kind of hardware?
If all else fails try something like this, https://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&amp;source=web&amp;rct=j&amp;url=https://www.amazon.ca/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6&amp;ved=0ahUKEwj7hez87LPSAhUC2hoKHRYBBGYQFggaMAA&amp;usg=AFQjCNHs_K_S5lJxOfNKy-A0gbdiS--uHw&amp;sig2=DwRpPSt1thLo9p4xmmHshA
If you have 2 GPUs and your CPU/motherboard supports IOMMU, this is possible using virtualisation.
Basically you install a hypervisor on your main operating system, create 2 virtual machines, and assign a GPU to each. One GPU is connected to a monitor, and the other to a stub display device such as this. The laptop connects to the virtual machine using GameStream/Steam In-home Streaming etc.
The difficult part is that hardware/hypervisor compatibility, troubleshooting, and performance tuning requires quite a bit of specialised knowledge. Most people use a Linux distro with KVM as their hypervisor OS, so experience with Linux is very usefull. See /r/vfio and /r/unraid for some examples of the kinds of things you will have to learn to implement this.
There are other more exotic possibilities such as using a card from the Nvidia GRID, and using it to power multiple virtual machines (even over the internet). There is also some early work at implementing virtual GL, in which the CPU can be used to emulate a 3D-capable display adaptor. It remains to be seen how effective this approach would be for gaming, however (it's also Linux-only for now).
I'm not sure why you're having trouble with Teamviewer, I use it exclusively to control all my PC's remotely. Have you reformatted the Plex server PC at all?
Can you elaborate on "the thing works about once every 10 tries." Are you getting an error message when you try to connect? Does it time out? Is Teamviewer just not starting up with your PC?
I also run my Plex server on a dedicated Windows 10 PC and initially had some problems connecting and controlling it.
I'm not sure if you're experiencing the same problems, but I had to enable Mouse Keys in Windows for it to read my keyboard commands: http://imgur.com/dwCURbV
I also had to buy one of these as the resolution was way too low: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T1_ZP6EzbKN8HTVW
There are things like this that emulate a screen attached that might work. I think people normally use them for servers sometimes that do not display anything if nothing is plugged in.
&#x200B;
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=pd_cp_147_3/138-8630224-6385933?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00FLZXGJ6&pd_rd_r=3b76fb96-a51e-484d-a0d0-79d3d52bcd94&pd_rd_w=0dHtD&pd_rd_wg=AFFip&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=ZKVN7PFYWWAZXYKC3RE9&psc=1&refRID=ZKVN7PFYWWAZXYKC3RE9
I don't have a sync box, but there are 'dummy plugs' used in IT for connecting to remote computers. The idea is, depending on the remote connection software, it will think there's a 1080 monitor attached and maintain that resolution:
https://smile.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
No idea if it would work for a sync box, or if it would pass the HDCP protection or not, like was mentioned below. But, it's a thing that exists.
You need to buy a dummy plug.
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Yes, you can. You might need one of these as it won't output the image if it doesn't detect a display
Googling what you said gave me this: (Apart from some pretty messy (and probably dated) info/registry hacks)
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=redir_mobile_desktop/130-0741496-4214623?_encoding=UTF8&amp;%2AVersion%2A=1&amp;%2Aentries%2A=0
Probably the least headache way to achieve what I´m after.
Thanks !
you can short the vga adapter if you have one. or buy a dummy hdmi dongle on amazon for like $8.50 https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Awesome. If you find out that you always need a monitor plugged in for OC to activate then look into these:
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Which simulate a monitor but don't waste space/electricity.
are these okay? https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_147_bs_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=4ZS6R8GWZV2768391JTF%27
my other question is should i then disable i-gpu? i'm using asrock pro 110.
ahem
https://www.amazon.com/CompuLab-fit-Headless-Display-Emulator/dp/B00FLZXGJ6
Not sure about building a custome one but you can get them relatively cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZXGJ6/ref=as_li_qf_sp_asin_il_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;creativeASIN=B00FLZXGJ6&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;tag=bgsco-20
You can buy a dongle for that exact purpose
A paid alternative to /u/chareon's post that uses HDMI,
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FLZXGJ6/
You need this or equivalent: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZXGJ6/
I'm not using HDMI for video, i'm using DVI for my 1440p monitor. I did just order a displayport to HDMI wire (my 1 hdmi port on my video card is for my home theater setup). It seems like I can't use HDMI for just audio though as per my googling. I did order this to try and see if it will fake the display and just set to show desktop on my maindisplay.
That's a bummer. In the spirit of solving your problem (but not answering the original question) may I suggest you try using teamviewer as well? It seems that people had your exact issue but were able to use teamviewer with the laptop lid closed after installing the Teamviewer Display Driver.
Source
Warning: If you install that driver do so at your own risk. According to the source, you might not be able to adjust your laptop's brightness after installing the driver.
Another solution - it would require you to spend money, but considerably less than getting an actual monitor - would be to find and use something like this.
[Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FLZXGJ6/)
Then it would just work.
I'm assuming you're using your Chromebook to remotely access your windows machine via Chrome Remote Desktop (but doesn't really matter if you are or not). I haven't had this particular problem, but a few things to check out are:
A) Is your windows machine opening these folders in separate displays (is your machine set up to utilize multiple monitors?). If so, you'll probably want to either mirror the displays or set it to just use one.
B) Some OS's have trouble behaving normally with Chrome Remote Desktop if it doesn't think there's a monitor plugged in (I just dealt with this yesterday on my headless Ubuntu machine). You may want to try this again with a dummy plug (you can make these yourself for cheaper) or plug in an external monitor that you leave off or use some software that creates a dummy display (like this)
There are hardware boxes that will allow HDMI input and connect to your PC as a webcam. I've used an external webcam with ChromeOS, so it might be possible. Here's one with good reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I16VQOY/
here's something cheaper with no reviews:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JZAYQCS
I suppose you could be the one to find out for us, but I would imagine that the latencies aren't great, so I wouldn't try using this for gaming.
Have you considered a usb capture device? E.g. http://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY
In any case, 1080p video may be a tall order for a mini pc.
There is no input for video on most all laptops. The only way it's possible is to buy something like this. Is it worth $300 USD, that's up to you. Instructions here
Ahem
http://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY
Perfectly feasible you just need an adapter.
sorry, I think this is what i've used in the past. Bit more expensive:
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https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle&qid=1558643705&s=gateway&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1&smid=A2LXBKOLL3J3K6
Here is the Magewell. It is a bit pricey, but in all honesty it works right from the packaging. No need to install drivers. It just works.
This is the one Noah recommended for HDMI. It isn't cheap thou. It does claim Linux support right on the amazon page.
https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Capture-Video-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY
Edit: here is his review.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R5XCD2EGO1S5P/ref=cm_cr_dp_d_rvw_ttl?ie=UTF8&amp;ASIN=B00I16VQOY
I'm definitely not an expert in this area, but doing a quick search it seems like most HDMI/USB adapters are meant to be used for the opposite reason--outputting video. Capture devices meant for displaying/recording from HDMI inputs seem incredibly more expensive.
10 years ago I worked on a camera chip and the A2D block was pretty small in comparison to the video encoding block.
There are already HDMI to USB3 video capture devices. I think this has an encoder and the ability to bypass the encoder and get the uncompressed data.
http://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY
But all of this is for people producing their own content. The HDCP added into the data stream by any BluRay player or set top box will prevent it from recording. That is why I told you to google HD Fury.
If you don't have HDMI in, and have no other option, go with something like this to handle the input. OBS does the recording and so on, just select it as input when given the choice.
2 Magewell capture dongles will. Although 2 is about all you want to push on a single 3.0 bus. I've seen 3 work on obs at a church though I believe one camera was only sending 720p.
http://www.amazon.com/Magewell-XI100DUSB-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY
They're well worth the 300 bucks. For example I use a Canon xa20 as my live feed going right into hangouts live or whatever it is for YouTube live at my work. I plug my audio mixer unto the xa20's inputs and I'm set.
If I want two cameras I just use OBS and two dongles on pc, along with a scarlet 2i2 for audio.
Edit 1: Updated equipment.
Edit 2: Removed video link.
Edit 3: See comment from /u/N3rdC3ntral who politely corrected me.
So let me start out saying this: Please do not get discouraged by what I'm about to say. You should just start out using the built-in functionality of the PS4 since it's all free for you at this point. If you like it, then consider the rest of this comment.
Here's a list of stuff you'll need.
Why do you need all of this?
Your laptop is probably going to struggle to keep up. Encoding video on the fly is very CPU/GPU intensive. Your laptop, if new, probably doesn't have a physical network port. I promise you will not want to use a WiFi connection to stream your game play. So if your PS4 is using WiFi, fix that first. Plug it in. If your laptop doesn't have an Ethernet port, you probably don't want to use it. External capture cards need USB 3.0. If your laptop doesn't have USB 3.0, then it probably won't work with a USB capture card.
The next biggest hurdle you will have with PS4 is audio. If you only play solo, it's not bad. I play Destiny 2, and I founded the clan that my friends use now. We are usually 4-8 deep in chat, and unfortunately everyone uses PS4 party chat. That's where things get messy. It's a f**king nightmare, and I mean it. I have lost sleep trying to get good audio while streaming PS4. Consider the only way you have to run a mic into a PS4: the controller. Now with a streaming PC you have to figure out how to get a mic into your PS4 (assuming you play games with friends) and your stream rig at the same time.
What I had to do was purchase a 4-pole 3.5mm splitter that plugs into my PS4 controller. This splits headphones and mic into separate channels. I run the headphone port into a mixer. Next, the Blue Yeti has a USB and 3.5mm port. The USB runs into the stream PC. The 3.5mm runs into the mic port of the splitter. I capture game audio via HDMI through the USB capture device, and mirror that out the headphone port of the PC. This runs back into the mixer. I hook my headphones up to the mixer. So now I have both PS4 chat and game audio in the mixer, which I can run to the headphones combined.
Here's what I hope you take away from this. Start out streaming straight from the PS4. It's super easy. You press the share button then broadcast gameplay. Link your PS4 to your Twitch account. Boom. Bam. Done. You're live on Twich. People can see you playing, and you can open Twitch on your mobile or laptop to see chat and interact with people. If you have fun doing this, then over time decide how far you want to take it.
Want an overlay like the twitch pros?
Want people to see your webcam?You're going to need a lot more. Update: PS4 has built in support for webcam if you use the PS4 camera.If you're still reading at this point, the last thing I want to say is that people have been really helpful for me so far. There are a lot of resources out there. I plan making a video this weekend documenting my audio setup. I'll try to come back and post a link for you so you can see what all I had to rig up. And let me say this as well: audio doesn't have to be such a huge issue. It is for me only because I want my PS4 party chat in the stream. I think my friends are pretty funny. Also, without it sounds like I'm talking to invisible people.
If you've got $300 laying around you could pick up a USB HDMI capture card.
Ah, it is sort of steep for someone just getting into streaming.
So https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-Capture-HDMI-Video-Card/dp/B019M5IB2C would be a good one to start with?
And how does the USB version compare (https://www.amazon.com/Magewell-HDMI-Video-Capture-Dongle/dp/B00I16VQOY)?
I bought a Magewell USB 3.0 one and it does really good.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I16VQOY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
IMO it's pricey but having good Linux Drivers is a top priority for me, and I wanted something I could use on my laptop and to be portable.
Ok from the beginning.
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I am using a Panasonic GH5 Mirrorless Camera.
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I am connecting this camera to a Magewell USB capture card HDMI Gen 2- USB 3.0 HD Video Capture Dongle Model 32060.
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I am connecting the Magewell capture card into my Dell XPS (i7 2.8GHz 8GB Ram 238GB storage) laptop.
&#x200B;
I am also planning on connecting the Samsung SSD to my computer.
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My goal is to be able to record large files in 4k. So I want to record large files using OBS/ Wirecast.
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Is this possible? How would I record onto my SSD using OBS/ Wirecast?
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Thank you
A good option would be to use OBS, a free program used to stream and record video from webcams and a built in software screen recorder, just have a webcam and a usb microphone plugged in the teachers computer so we can record both the class powerpoint presentation (if needed) and the board itself.
This solution is super cheap, some good webcams and usb microphones go for 60$ each, there is an option to get an adaptor like this one to use a DSLR as a webcam in OBS, uping the video quality.
This setup is my favorite because you only need to carry around your laptop, that you would be caring anyways and a small bag with the mic and webcam, its a very portable setup, hope this helps!
I've seen this get posted around here as a recommendation. I don't own it myself but I would consider getting for sure.
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00
You can get a converter kit/module that will convert old RCA-style AV inputs into HDMI.
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
hey! I am a n64 streamer & I had a lot of questions converting RCA (analog) to hdmi (digital)
I used this upscaler https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
i also made a post about this if you want to read I thought it would be helpful
https://www.reddit.com/r/n64/comments/5ygpkh/advice_on_playing_on_a_flatscreen_rga_to_hdmi/
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
Ps2 uses RCA connectors (the three single pin cables.) so go to bestbuy and get an hdmi or display port to RGB adapter.
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
I don't know if I've ever seen a gpu with any kind of video input. I'm not saying that they don't exist, but I've never heard of it. Honestly, I think OP is confused on what he's looking for.
OP, why do you want to plug in a console into a GPU rather than a monitor? If the goal is to get the console on a monitor, you'll need some kind of capture card (that accepts what your console outputs) and software or just an upscaler hooked up to the monitor.
I recommend getting an upscaler unless you're trying to record yourself playing. The problem you might have is getting one that can separate video and sound since your monitor doesn't have hdmi.
Edit: Probably the easiest thing that would work for you is getting something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457981421&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=composite+to+hdmi+upscaler
Since your monitor doesn't have hdmi, you'll need a hdmi to dvi cable like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457981421&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=composite+to+hdmi+upscaler
For sound, you'll need to figure out if you can send the red and white cables to your speakers. Do your speakers have a stereo or rca jacks? If they don't, you'll probably have to convert the rca to stereo:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000A88L9E?psc=1&amp;redirect=true&amp;ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00
and get a stereo coupler like this:
http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-107230-Stereo-Adaptor-Plated/dp/B004C87WQ6/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1457981876&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=stereo+coupler
You will need a component to hdmi adapter and these can be quite expensive.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
but how this would work is you would plug the component cable from the NES into the converting device and then hdmi output into the hd60 input port, and then hdmi cord from the HD60 output, into your TV, Monitor or whatever. and then you can find the nes as "Other" in the Elgato device settings menu.
Maybe something like this.
Will this device work with the Nintendo Switch?
https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
I thought I needed something like this RCA to HDMI
You need something like this. https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
The simplest thing would probably be to just buy a composite splitter and a composite to HDMI box. Feed your CRT from one splitter output, and the converter box with the other, then feed the Avermedia card with the HDMI output.
As a disclaimer, I haven't used either of the linked products, I'm just using those as an example.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SFJ9MR0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1451955468&amp;amp;sr=8-2&amp;amp;pi=SL75_QL70&amp;amp;keywords=viewsonic+3d+projector
this is very similar to the one I game on.
Id say your best bet is to have the xbox one plugged into the hdmi port on the tv.
http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI
Something like this plugged into the back of the xbox one going from your n64.
Also, you need to look into a projector screen. (Mine is 120+") and speaker system
It is possible for under $1000. My projector looks very clear even at over 100"
Thanks! that specific product got fairly poor reviews though. I started looking around and found this: http://www.amazon.com/Mini-Composite-CVBS-Converter-Input/dp/B00I482KZI/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1426477588&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=hdmi+av+converter
would this be better option? it seems to have good reviews
I used to think that there was no way to make older consoles look good on a new tv. I kept an old junky crt (that only had mono sound) in my room for about 3 years just to play my old consoles. One of my friends pointed me to this converter (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I482KZI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1491694460&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=enko+av+to+hdmi&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41G1EWweTEL&amp;ref=plSrch). I've had it for about a half a year now and I wouldn't go back to a CRT, even if I had the option. All you have to do is plug your av cables from the console into one side, then plug a hdmi cable to the other side, and then to your tv. The games look and sound so crisp and clear, and have absolutely no input lag. I've used this with a small computer monitor at my house, and with a 40" flat screen at my wife's parents. It looks fantastic on both, but i prefer the smaller computer monitor so that the image don't look stretched out. This isn't a full cure all though. Lightgun games will not work with flat screen tvs. Also, some retro consoles didn't have an av out (NES toploader) so be sure to check that you have av cables if you decide to try this. Hope this helps.
So SCART came up with a French anagram for something, but it sounds like you need a hub with some component, composite or svideo outputs? If that's the case here's one example here. Good luck.
You probably will need a mini hdmi to hdmi wire or connector, I don't think that has a full hdmi port.
Edit: if you had a few hdmi hookups you can add a chromecast or any firestick or what have you. You can run an HDMI from your PC to TV and that's what I do. I access my DVR online and if you're a little savvy you might find interest in [this ](http://www.KODI.com/ - Complete Setup Guide 2016 - ..).
You could try this - https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETHRV-Component-Converter-Windows-10/dp/B00J22LGYG
HDCP might give you issues with games, no idea how that works with linux though.
According to CNET your DVI is DVI-HDCP. It could be a handshake issue with the HDCP encryption.
Try this instead:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J22LGYG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l...vb962709Y
It will convert HDMI to Component which your TV supports. Your DVI connection won't carry audio.
that's true. if it's component, you'd get something like this:
Portta HDMI to YPbPr Component RGB + R/L Converter v1.3 support 1080p 2 Channels LPCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J22LGYG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fPSZAbQMD0XRG
and you'd get 1080i(maybe p?) resolutions instead of 480i from the RCAs
technically they both use composite connectors, but one is a single yellow connection for video, and component is different colors etc split into 3 connections. So make sure first of what can be used; component connectors are typically red, green, and blue.
Thanks for the input on that. I've read about the HD Fury, but is VGA simply not going to work?
I've also read a couple posts about using a HDMI splitter to do the HDCP handshake, then use a converter, or to use a converter that does a handshake as well.
Would something like this not work? http://www.amazon.com/E-More%C2%AE-Component-Video-Converter-Supporting/dp/B00J22LGYG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1416030673&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+component+converter&amp;pebp=1416030680232
Worst case scenario, you use a splitter upstream to strip the HDCP requirement then go to this, no?
Ideally I'd buy a new projector, but the actual use case for this projector is (unfortunately) relatively rare. I'll be using it on Sundays to play Red Zone on the wall while a game is going on on the TV (only 60 inches). Other than that, the projector will be used on occasion when we are on vacation for outdoor movie nights.
There offered both composite and component but yeah, no HDMI. Meaning you'd need a converter box like this one which would upscale the PSP signal to HDMI.
I'm just saying out of the two, get the component. Composite -> HDMI is a larger jump and would result in greater input lag.
upvoted for legitimate question (though easily googled, everyone has to start somewhere).
you will want this https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETHRV-Component-Converter-Channels/dp/B00J22LGYG
it might be better to just chunk the tv though, as devices with hdmi are cheap enough, especially secondhand. nothings cheaper than free...but sometimes the headaches arent worth it.
You could use an adapter like http://www.amazon.com/Baitaihem-Composite-Video-Signal-Converter/dp/B00HLHR8QY or http://www.amazon.com/E-More®-Component-Video-Converter-Supporting/dp/B00J22LGYG (vga and component respectively). Do be aware that by doing so the quality of video will drop (and you will not be able to get 1080p) and you may experience some latency.
Well I'm not well versed in televisions so if no one else can help you I'd look into hardware solutions like E-More® HDMI to Component Video (YPbPr) Converter Supporting HDCP 1.2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00J22LGYG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_m-fRub171NMM8
Find out the input on your TV that works and get an HDMI to (whatever) converter. This may or may not work, but you get the idea: https://www.amazon.com/Portta-PETHRV-Component-Converter-Channels/dp/B00J22LGYG
Get something like this:
http://www.amazon.com/E-More%C2%AE-Component-Video-Converter-Supporting/dp/B00J22LGYG
The first review confirms that it works with the Xbox One. If you are looking for perhaps cheaper alternatives, always check if the converter supports HDCP (HDMI copy protection)!
Thank you, iamofnohelp.
Couldn't something like this work? I do have the Y,Pr,Pb input.
If the TV also has the 5 port-thingy (Component), this could also work, goes up to 1080i: http://amzn.com/B00J22LGYG
You should have probably read this part on the description:
> The cable only has the connection function, it cannot help converting signal
You'll need to get an active conversion box like this one.
Ah component AV. I don't think there are any direct connections. In order for video to work to your car you would need an HDMI out from your nexus and an HDMI to Component AV adapter. In that case it should work.
Tendak 1080P HDMI to AV 3RCA CVBs Composite Video Audio Converter Adapter Supporting PAL/NTSC with USB Charge Cable for PC Laptop Xbox PS4 PS3 TV STB VHS VCR Camera DVD https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i4fvxbM68C81X
This one from Amazon should work.
1byone USB 3.1 Type C to HDMI 4K Supported Adapter for New Macbook, Chromebook Pixel, Microsoft Lumia 950 / 950XL and Future USB Type C Devices https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017N3WBDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_..fvxb4BA6GR3
This USB-C to HDMI adapter should work on your 6p. You'd just need an HDMI cable other than these two products.
I'd assume that's 480i only. What are you getting HDMI from? Can it output HDMI at 480i?
If yes, something like https://www.amazon.com/Tsing-Component-YPbPr-Adapter-Converter/dp/B01E50T2FE/
If no, https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/
It's going to look pretty awful regardless. Just be warned.
I assume it would work.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468816085&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=HDMI+to+rca
https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-TRS-202-inch-Insert-Cable/dp/B000068O1K/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1468816065&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=RCA+to+TRS
Even simpler would just be buying a blueray drive for $50 for a computer and recording the sound straight.
I love the setup. For the TV, I have an HDMI to composite adapter. It works great for getting newer media on the old CRT tvs. Check out the link here.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IufExbX488AM5
[You need a HDMI to composite D/A Converter] (http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B00KBQZC4M/ref=pd_sim_23_2?ie=UTF8&amp;dpID=41Cmau1tgOL&amp;dpSrc=sims&amp;preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&amp;refRID=1MR3Y5HPFR19WFK26543).
The thing you bought is a DTV tuner. It decodes a digital broadcast signal and splits it into TV channels. It converts a DTV input into video and outputs it as analog Composite RCA or as digital HDMI
I'm trying to plug in some old Acoustic Research Powered Partner 850 speakers to my desktop computer.
They originally were hooked up using a 3.5mm jack from the speakers to RCA on a CD/DVD player.
However my desktop doesn't have an RCA connection so I was wondering if a straight male to male 3.5mm connection would work
Or I was browsing around reddit and google and saw this adapter for RCA to HDMI and was wondering if that could work. The only issue i see is that it's for AV signals so not sure if that matters if it's only going to receive audio signals.
There were also some post discussing using an amp but these dont have speaker wires, the only other connectors are the power cable and the one to connect two speakers together to make them a stereo combo which fits into the speaker output slot you see on the image.
So wondering if it's possible or if they're too old and I should just get different speakers.
Edit: The peeps on the IRC chat helped out, the male to male connector should work they said so thanks guys, going to try that out :)
The Roku Express+ retails for $40, connects directly via composite, and also offers HDMI in case you later upgrade.
https://www.roku.com/products/roku-express-plus
Alternatively, some people have had success with HDMI converter to allow connecting HDMI devices to non-HDMI TVs. They only work in one direction (some only convert to HDMI) and the cord-only versions are totally different, so if you go this route check the reviews to make sure you're getting the right product. Prices range and fluctuate but are usually just north of $20.
The reviews are often quite mixed and quality control was hot or miss a few years back (but seems to have improved in the last year and a half or so), so YMMV.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KBQZC4M/
lightning to hdmi
hdmi to rca box
There are many ways to record HDTV, yes. Here is an example.
Here's what I use. Not nearly the best, but it's manageable for the average Joe or group.
Current
Deprecated
Capture Device: Dazzle DVC 100BPHS1s are kind of the standard for accessible and reasonably priced xlr headsets.
I was getting decent quality out of my old dazzle before I switched, people just need to learn how to setup their bitrate properly to reduce artifacts and how to deinterlace their capture via amarectv or using the built in obs plugins (I used yadifx4 for the longest time) which do a nice, respectable job. Would I recommend a dazzle? Eh, it produces decent video for the price (got mine on ebay for $20), but has some compatibility issues - if you do a quick search for audio issues with the dazzle you'll find a couple threads. There are workarounds, but it's finicky.
Ideally though, streams should be capturing component video. It removes the need for software/external hardware deinterlacing. The issue here is that you either need a TV that supports component, or a component->composite converter, which I've seen people have performance issues with in the past.
My current setup uses a Framemeister to upscale the composite signal and handle the deinterlacing, outputting HDMI to the USB3HDCAP. The advantage is that I get to feed straight composite signals to any plain old CRT, which is great because I've been recording out of a suitcase the last few months while I move around.
I build my overlays in JavaScript and HTML; there's a layer of logic that polls a local JSON file written by StreamControl for changes and updates them on the page.
Just taking off on a flight. More info later.(It's later)Sample with the Dazzle
Avoid that card at all costs. I've gone through a few other branded devices that were pretty much the same build and possibly chipset. No lie, most "budget" USB 2.0 Capture devices like that either don't work or are going to give you pretty bad quality and possibly input lag and other issues. I have one of these and it works decent enough.
If you want something great for the money, you're going to be paying a pretty penny, though. Like this is what I want to get for my console needs.
If you want the best way youd need a external video recorder
The older elgatos I believe supported component/composite/s video with a little adapter cable. It’s usb 2.0 I believe. Any reason why you want 3.0 so bad? 2.0 can still do decent bitrate (480Mbps theoretical max throughput of 2.0 should be much higher than even a 1080p stream)
No idea if the elgato is Linux compatible though. And you would probably have to get it from eBay
Edit: what about the startek USB3HDCAP
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-USB3HDCAP-Video-Capture-Device/dp/B00PC5HUA6
Desktops have more options, that's why I asked.
http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00PC5HUA6 and a powered HDMI splitter.
agreed, you could always pick up something like this if you really wanted it though.
The RPi doesn't have audio input or HDMI input. If you want to get audio out of the Yamaha via the HDMI connection then you'll need a HDMI audio extractor box. Plug that into a Bluetooth aptx transmitter. aptx is much better quality than regular Bluetooth audio but you need to make sure the transmitter and your speakers support it.
You need the HDMI audio extractor anyway if you want to get the audio from the HDMI cable. It is easier to just use a purpose built Bluetooth aptx transmitter than dealing with the RPi. You'll probably have much better latency as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1483640529&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hdmi+2.0+toslink+spdif
It does not unfortunately. :(
Is this what I am looking for? Again, need the output to be a single 3.5mm aux cable.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524927704&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+splitter+audio
[This should do it](http://www.Tendak.com/ 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_jYRyxb021FF2S)
$40 This is what I use, it's working great. I love the remote. It support 2.1 and 5.1 I believe.
Tendak 4 x 1 HDMI Switch with Audio Out Optical SPDIF Coaxial & RCA L/R 4 Port HDMI Switcher Box Selector Audio Extractor Splitter with IR Remote Supports 4Kx2K, ARC, MHL, Full 3D https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM1RP6G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DtRgzb59G9006
$30 There's also this one, I think they both have the same audio extraction system:
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZuRgzbQKSPMR6
This one seems pretty good. Can't find the one I bought but it's practically the same thing.
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_OVI.ybQX403WA
Any optical audio cable should work. Don't buy the super expensive ones.
Something along these lines should work, if your video card has audio in the hdmi cable (is there audio if you attach it to a TV?). The biggest problem you might have is that you might need to find a device that has a headphone amp/volume control to drive the headphones if the splitter is doing line level output.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/
here's one: https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1487618996&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+optical+audio
The Fire TV can't do either. Sounds like your best option is to get this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/
It'll give you 3 simultaneous audio signals: HDMI, TOSLINK, and 3.5mm. Then, if you also want BT, you can connect something like this to the 3.5mm jack: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FLKW0JI/
Would this work?
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497751293&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+splitter
This is what I picked up.
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_GFRozb0J9S3HD
Something like this should do he trick. Sound will still reach the TV but you can also attach headphones to the box if I got that right.
Depends because some tv's do NOt have 5.1 audio passthrough.
Alternatively, you may need an hdmi to optical converter which is limited to dolby digital and DTS. no DTS hd, dolby dig plus, etc.
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1498936980&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+optical+converter
I tried both of these:
Portta HDMI to HDMI Mini Audio Extractor Converter v1.3 Stereo SPDIF Digital support 1080p LPCM https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HIW7TZC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oSdyzb1K0B8PY
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YSdyzbNZCW0VS
Yeah, well I could get better speakers, but the previous owners left them so I decided to be lazy.
It just frustrates me that I can't get it working again, as it was working just the other day. If this is the best option though, I'll go that route. Thanks.
Something like this, yeah?
I just purchased a new monitor for my link and am kicking myself because I did not notice it does not have a headphone out jack as did my old monitor.
One solution I've considered: An HDMI audio extractor. It's a little do-hicky you put inline and it gives you a headphone jack.
Here's one on amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/
The irritating thing is the audio extractor costs more than the steamlink.
Took me a while to find but this one:
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital/Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-KhUCb6F3817D
Your right I forgot they removed that. You could get something like these https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_665OAbHDNCZB1 (don’t know if these ones any good) or a Bluetooth receiver to connect to the speakers or see if your tv has an audio out.
I got mine for the same reason and I love it. You may consider something like this to...
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_rTztybY19JEKC
Yeah the second thing should separate audio from hdmi and give you optical out there's also ones like this one which will give you optical and 3.5mm out if you only have an analog stereo setup.
I was so mad I couldn't think properly, thank you for saving some hairs on my head! I bought the https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ZPQrybA57WAHE because it's Dolby Digital supported so hopefully the shit works!
May the ball licking gods guide you in your future endeavors. Bless you
http://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454270371&amp;sr=8-1-fkmr2&amp;keywords=hdmi+toslink+audio+breakout
It's an update, this is the converter I went with and it's working great! Best 30 bucks I spent for my Astro A50s to work with my PS4 slim!
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital / Analog Audio Output) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9F6Mzb235DK6R
https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504898614&amp;sr=1-2-spons&amp;keywords=hdmi+audio+extractor&amp;psc=1
One option could be an HDMI converter with toslink out. That way you could just attach a normal CC.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8
I think the higher quality powered speakers you are looking for might be hard to find with built in CC.
This one worked great for my Gen 1 Chromecast
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8
I have both, i tried 3.5 mm output but hated it because of the hissing.
You can get one of hdmi to optical output converter box..
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I have an older TV and I had to get one of these to work with my Sonos playbase because my TV didn't output optical audio from HDMI sources.
Tendak 4K x 2K HDMI to HDMI and Optical TOSLINK SPDIF + 3.5mm Stereo Audio Extractor Converter HDMI Audio Splitter Adapter(HDMI Input, HDMI + Digital/Analog Audio Output)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8
This solution only works when the video input is from an external device like an Apple TV or Roku.
A quick search led me to this for $27.99
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I’ve got some time before mine arrives to do a little more research, but this one seems to be decently rated. Lemme know if you come across anything else and I’ll do the same.
Perhaps you could get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B017B6WFP8/ref=mw_dp_cr
That would strip out the audio directly from the HDMI, perhaps it could help reduce the gap
Probably something like this (check around for stuff like it, I didn't like it ok at reviews, just an example): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017B6WFP8/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1520085487&amp;sr=8-6π=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=hdmi+3.5mm+audio+extractor&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=410rPgzOz2L&amp;ref=plSrch
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017B6WFP8/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I've bought probably 40 of these in the last 1.5-2 years for the various jobs I do. All of them have worked with DirecTV & Comcast receivers, Apple TVs, Amazon Fire Sticks/TVs etc etc etc. If swapping cables doesn't work I'd give this a try.
For anything over 6 feet hdmi, I needed a repeater. This is the one I use, and what the Op recommends.
SHENFAN 4K2K HDMI Antenna Splitter Repeater Signal Amplifier Booster Adapter Extender UP TO 40 Meters Transmission Distance https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M02Z4FU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_We2GAbG28VK5W
Currently unavailable from that link but it seems lots of people have successfully extended hdmi with this.
Edit: actually OP recommends:
COWEEN HDMI Repeater 4K UHD HDMI Female to Female HDMI Amplifier 40' HDMI Extender Up to 40 Meters Lossless Transmission for Oculus Rift and More
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_jr2GAbK1VMMCW
If you are in the US I recommend the setup I run. The insignia cable has the hdmi and usb cable bonded. HDMI repeater I highly recommend to a repeater as listed because I have had issues with both the 980ti I had and my 1080ti with screen blacking out intermittently especially with driver changes.
The male to make adapter is just to make it work with the insignia extension. I put a 10 inch loop where all the connections in and then velcro it to help keep stress off pulling the connections apart.
I also have some cable re-tractors in the mix to keep the cable away from my feet.
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/searchpage.jsp?st=vr+extension+cable&amp;_dyncharset=UTF-8&amp;id=pcat17071&amp;type=page&amp;sc=Global&amp;cp=1&amp;nrp=&amp;sp=&amp;qp=&amp;list=n&amp;af=true&amp;iht=y&amp;usc=All+Categories&amp;ks=960&amp;keys=keys
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JGP6N82/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;th=1
https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=pd_sbs_63_2?_encoding=UTF8&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=XTF30SEHXKTPS13SG6ZR
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5WKXW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Add this HDMI Repeater to your setup, this allowed me to extend my headset
https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523025750&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hdmi+repeater
I'd recommend getting an HDMI repeater. This will turn your passive cord into a active. I have a generic cheap 10ft hdmi cord that works great with it. Plus with this you don't need to worry about getting an extension cable or coupler, any normal cable will work. One person stated his repeater worked with a 25ft HDMI cord with his Rift.
https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518111645&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=HDMI+repeater&amp;dpID=41Cjp8ODTWL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Dude, just get one of these
https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Signal-Amplifier-Splitter/dp/B01GHL72XS
Plan out you playspace, there's lots of information about it, but I suggest reading the Oculus information, should be in the faq here. If you need cable extensions for the rift use this with any good hdmi cable, put it between the hdmi cable and the rift cable, because standard extensions may not work. And you got Touch right?
Can't speak from experience but seems the biggest issue most people have is just the power component. Found this USB on Amazon that says it's been tested with a few headsets, then this HDMI repeater to boost the HDMI side, just need a cable for it as well. Like I said, haven't tried any of this myself, but Amazon returns are easy enough to be worth a shot if I was in your situation since they do flat out say VR headset names in the descriptions of each.
You need to have a repeater attached, not sure if this is listed in any of the links. Here is a good one from amazon https://www.amazon.com/COWEEN-Repeater-Amplifier-Extender-Transmission/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1541242948&sr=8-4&keywords=hdmi+repeate
I use this hdmi extender and usb extension cable. I used a spare hdmi cable I had.
Just make sure to follow the input and output on the hdmi extender. It won’t work otherwise and you risk spending an hour trying to figure out why.
had troubles with 10ft hdmi extensions, got a repeater and it worked fine. USB 3 10ft extentions no problems, grab the cable matters ones off amazon, have 3 of em no issues. repeater & USB 3.0 extention and any 10ft high speed HDMI cable.
I have my Rift working fine with a 10m HDMI cable using this repeater
I concur. This seems to be the recommended one, had I needed it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_N2jMzbH16QP9Z
I was able to get a cheap 15ft hdmi to work with a hdmi booster similar to this one>
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01GHL72XS/
Or go with an HTC Link Box to extend hdmi, you may be able to go longer than 15ft, I read that people have used a PC>15ft hdmi>linkbox>hdmi cable extention>VR.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LXR6DKV/
I also have a 908ti TI and lets talk about the money i've burned trying to get the cable extended at all:
So I got a HDMI -> DVI:
"So you are all in on the sparklies then?" No actually, I just ordered this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GHL72XS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Per the top comment, and when it shows up I'll test this out on both DVI and HDMI ports and see what happens. Hopefully I can finally truly enjoy roomscale/standing VR without the wire being too short and the screen being wonky due to extenders.
Then.. Oculus can fix the tracking issues, and it'll be perfect. Not saying I am not enjoying the rift, i rate it at 97% perfect enjoyment, just trying to coax that last three percent out.
Back of TV http://imgur.com/a/FgaP1
Well crap..... i was planning on using something like this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I482KZI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1) to hook it up to my computer. Will it still work. Thanks for the detailed reply.
Try the StarTech USB3HDCAP. It's more expensive than the card you listed, but it uses USB 3.0 and thus avoids the bandwidth issue that makes USB 2.0 capture cards perform so poorly.
It's also less expensive and far more flexible than the Elgato HD60 Pro that others here have mentioned. That card only accepts HDMI, but this one accepts HDMI, composite/s-video, component, and DVI inputs.
There's a review for the card at: http://www.thethrillness.com/2015/01/startech-usb3hdcap-review.html
Notably, it uses the same hardware as the Micomsoft XCAPTURE-1, to the extent that you can actually use the XCAPTURE-1's drivers with the card. Here's a review for the XCAPTURE-1, admittedly focused on retro system capture: http://sixfortyfive.com/streaming/xcapture1.html
TL;DR: Cheaper than the internal Elgato. Has no problem with 1080p60 content. Doesn't have stupid compression and lag because of USB 2.0. Can capture non-HDMI inputs, and does incredibly well.
Just buy a analog to digital video converter. They are cheap on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Adapter-Supporting/dp/B01L8GG6PW/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?keywords=analog+to+digital+video+converter&amp;qid=1572630307&amp;sr=8-6
You will also need a short HDMI cable to go from the converter to your TV.
This would be the easiest way I can think of to remedy your situation. This will work for all your old game systems that have the same issue.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01L8GG6PW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
&#x200B;
Works great for N64
https://www.amazon.com/GANA-Composite-Converter-Supports-DVD-Black/dp/B06W9LQDBB/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?hvadid=78340254176158&amp;hvbmt=be&amp;hvdev=m&amp;hvqmt=e&amp;keywords=hdmi+converter+box&amp;qid=1573782980&amp;sr=8-5 these things can be flaky. I’d suggest a newer tv as well. A smart tv would eliminate the need for the Roku all together. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=smart+tv&amp;sprefix=smart+&amp;ref=nb_sb_ss_i_1_6
There are inexpensive converters for converting RCA to HDMI, with decent reviews:
http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-HDMI2RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418654662&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mini+av+to+hdmi+converter
Before that, have you checked the obvious (ensuring you have selected the right input, turning on the NES and then having your TV search for the signal)?
Personally I would recommend emulating and using a PS3 controller.
But if you want to use your PS2, just pick up an adapter like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Tmvel-HDMI2RCACVS-Composite-Converter-Blue-Ray/dp/B009A6PJKQ
I'm not sure if this for iOS devices works, but it's worth a look.
This should let you use a Chromecast through composite cables.
but why spend so much money for such a shitty image quality?
https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-DVI2VGAE-1920x1200-Adapter-Converter/dp/B00C93JQXS
This is the adapter I have, and these cables I think are the ones I have.
You have to buy an extra audio adapter though to get audio, or mod the audio jacks onto the adapter like my dad did (don't ask me how he did it though cuz I have no idea).
You want something like this my dude
Sorry, can you clarify? I'm pretty much a noob on this stuff.
Edit: something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Tendak-Optical-Extractor-Converter-Splitter/dp/B017B6WFP8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496541243&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=hdmi+to+5.1+dolby